My 150,244 Oil Service

[Tony Prodigy]

Good Day to you all,

I finally got around to doing the oil service yesterday, one of a few maintenance items ticked off the list for now.

Last oil service was April 16th 2022 @ 141,168K and this service is 150,244K. So 9,076K interval. 

I've been quite loaded up with other jobs and been extremely busy so I haven't had neither the time or energy to get it done any earlier. 
My aim was to start to decrease the oil change frequency from 10K to between 7-8K for two reasons.
One, to start using up my oil stash and Two, to better prevent potential for sludge build up, not that a 10K interval would contribute, but to help keep the engine as clean as possible as a prevention measure.

Normal routine, got all the service items, tools and equipment ready then got to work in the early hours of the morning. It was rather cool yesterday morning and was hoping it would stay that way, but no. It gradually got hotter as the sun got higher unfortunately. 

A quick check of the dip stick surprisingly reveals a still golden tinge to 9K old oil. Testament to the high quality of the Nulon product, which I've been using since 40K on the ODO. 

   

Car jacked up with safety stands either side, then proceeded to drain oil and remove oil filter housing.
After engine warm up and some 20 minutes of drain time, it was finally ready for fresh oil.

Some prep prior to this would usually have me degreasing the inside of the oil filter housing and replacement of the large O-Ring, pre lubed, of course.
Then after installing new filter, I primed it by just filling the housing around half way, so there's no air gap prior to the engine starting.

New crush washer on the sump plug prior to installation and then she was ready for the big fill.

After brimming it with 6lt of Nulon 5W-30 goodness, my attention turned to the battery.

I had noticed the Negative post had started to leak over the last year or so, and despite this, the battery is going strong indicated by the "green" indicator window. 

The last time I replaced my battery was July 24, 2017, so 5 and a half years isn't too bad considering. If it weren't for the leaky post, I'd say it would've probably gone for another 2 or so years. What a shame..

Here's my original battery post 

 

 

The problem with the post leaking battery acid was that it would potentially eat away at the terminal clamp and so in the meantime, I would wash it down and neutralize it baking soda, but I couldn't keep up with this so I just decided to replace the battery. I got a replacement a couple of months ago and decided now was the time to do it while I had some free time.

So that's exactly what I did. I thoroughly cleaned both battery clamps using acetone to remove the old battery post spray protectant, (that yellow stuff you see) and then once the battery was installed, I could reapply the same stuff. I purposely avoided using any kind of grit paper as it was unnecessary and it would also ruin the tin coating on the clamps opening the door for rust. The terminal spray isn't absolutely necessary, but my OCD insists on it to further add another layer of protection. 🤪

So, oil done.. CHECK
Battery done.. CHECK.

Next on the agenda will be coolant and front brakes.

I will be replacing the front rotors this time as the previously installed set didn't live up to the hype. They turned out to be rubbish infact. I will elaborate  when I carry out the works.
I still have my original rotors and may even reinstall those. Looking at them yesterday, I don't know why I even bothered to replace them. They are still quite good, just need a clean up.
I'll canvass the cost for a new OEM set and brake pads this time. Aftermarket rotors are cheap for a reason and now I know for sure judging by the condition of mine.
The amount of degradation for a car that's driven gently is ridiculous. Two things are significant disc wear and they are also warped. You can feel the pulsing of the pedal. So for this reason, I might just go back to factory stock. I'll see what my research brings.

But for now, at least the oil is done. 

Thanks for reading everyone

Cheers and have a great day ! 

 

[campbeam]

10 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:

a still golden tinge to 9K old oil.

Absolutely appreciate your "OCD", attention to detail. Being contrarian, the still golden tinge after 9K is more testament to the internal cleanliness of the engine due to using a quality oil filter, brand name engine oil and an appropriate oil change interval.

In contrast, I have had the engine oil turn a black colour after only 1K due using Shell Ultra which has a high detergent additive reducing some of the accumulated oil sludge due to a dubious service history before my ownership.

I took note of the condition of the oil filter cartridge, particularly the absence of oil sludge particles. This post has reminded me that I was planning to remove the front valve cover to assist with desludging my engine codenamed "Sludgy".

A bit of tough luck that the battery post leaked. Good point about the tin coating on the terminal clamps. I recently had a fully discharged battery but the indicator was still green. I gave the battery a gentle shake and the indicator changed to clear. Back to green after being recharged.

Quite a few years ago, I bought replacement OEM front and rear rotors and have yet to fit them. I am gentle on the brakes and expect that I will have to wear out the current pads and another replacement set of front and rear brake pads then maybe I will have to replace the rotors. It has been a while since I checked the brake pads and rotors so should add that to the To Do list for this holiday period.

 

[Rimsy]

Thanks for the post Tony. What do you normally use to clean the oil filter housing?

[Tony Prodigy]

On 12/27/2022 at 9:21 AM, Rimsy said:

Thanks for the post Tony. What do you normally use to clean the oil filter housing?

I usually hit it with degreaser, then pressure rinse with the hose on fine spray, then I go over it with brake cleaner then blow it dry with compressed air.

It's over the top I know, but it's important to ensure the spring relief mechanism is super clean and is not stuck. Depress it a few times whilst you have the degreaser pooled up inside so that it works its way through everything.

Edited December 28, 2022 by Tony Prodigy

[Tony Prodigy]

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

Absolutely appreciate your "OCD", attention to detail. Being contrarian, the still golden tinge after 9K is more testament to the internal cleanliness of the engine due to using a quality oil filter, brand name engine oil and an appropriate oil change interval.

In contrast, I have had the engine oil turn a black colour after only 1K due using Shell Ultra which has a high detergent additive reducing some of the accumulated oil sludge due to a dubious service history before my ownership.

I took note of the condition of the oil filter cartridge, particularly the absence of oil sludge particles. This post has reminded me that I was planning to remove the front valve cover to assist with desludging my engine codenamed "Sludgy".

Haha yeah, my OCDness keeps everything in check. I don't feel comfortable using lesser parts, so I always try and opt for Either Genuine or High quality OEM replacement. I have a good stock of Genuine Toyota oil filters which worked out to be cheaper buying in bulk than buying, say, Ryco or the like. So you're better off with Toyota Genuine Parts where possible.

I hope sludgy is finally turning the corner there Ash. it's been a long and winding road. Any light at the end of that tunnel yet ?
I appreciate the fact the oil turns black even after 1K, and that's testament to the quality detergent package found in high quality oils. 
At least you know what you're doing and hopefully soon enough it should be a much better level of cleanliness.

1 hour ago, campbeam said:

A bit of tough luck that the battery post leaked. Good point about the tin coating on the terminal clamps.

Yeah, what can you do mate. 5 and a bit years isn't too bad considering the car lives outside in all weather conditions and it doesn't get a pampered garaged life either. So I can't complain too much.

[KAA]

Tony your OCD is at its finest example mate and greatly appreciated, yes the 9K oil still looked great mate so it shows how keeping the OCD going is worth it. Thanks as always for the detailed description.

KAA

[Tony Prodigy]

On 12/27/2022 at 4:33 PM, KAA said:

Tony your OCD is at its finest example mate and greatly appreciated, yes the 9K oil still looked great mate so it shows how keeping the OCD going is worth it. Thanks as always for the detailed description.

KAA

Haha, yes my friend. It is a lifelong condition unfortunately.

I'm just not one to do a half assed job. It kind of bothers me knowing that I could've tried just a bit harder and do the job a bit better than others would or could. You just need to be organised and the rest is so easy.

A nice surprise came to me yesterday, and as I was going through my tool cabinet, I found a spare set of those Remsa brake pads. I totally forgot that I had purchased two sets of front brake pads when I did my brake service way back when. "Nice", I thought. Looks like I'm going to have to use these before going back to OEM pads and rotors. 
I figured I'd just let these one ride out the life of the current rotors and when these are done I'll just refresh the whole package then. I can live with a little pulsating pedal. It's not bad, but you know it's there. If it gets worse I'll bring it forward.

[ZZT86]

Nice work as always Tony, now using the new oil filter I see 😉 I serviced my car just last Thursday as it was almost due & now I'm using this new filter also, curious to know how it will fare compared to the previous part number. I presume it will be fine.

I actually would love to do an interim check at say 2K kms & wonder if oil would drain out if I unscrewed the canister without draining the oil ? If memory serves the canister sits virtually in line with the sump, if not higher so undoing the canister would allow oil to leak out ?

With those discs just get them machined on car for a perfect re-finish. Torque down each wheel bolt to prevent warping. I spray clean my oil canister with brake cleaner, perfect job every time inside & out 😉

[Tony Prodigy]

7 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

Nice work as always Tony, now using the new oil filter I see 😉

Thanks mate. I think the part number may have been superseded but the filter itself is exactly the same. This filter is still from the batch I purchased a few years ago. I purchased one box of 10 initially to see if they were Genuine and after confirming they were, I went ahead and purchased 2 more boxes of 10, gave one box to my Dad who has the same car and put the other in stock. I'm down to a few in one box and still have the other, but I recently thought to replenish my stock and ordered another 2 boxes which will see me through for many years. Shipping costs are starting to bite so I was able to find a vendor in the U.S. who was able to send them way cheaper then most others, so I took the opportunity. It my be the last time "affordable" shipping will make it a viable purchase. So get while the getting's good I say.

7 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I actually would love to do an interim check at say 2K kms & wonder if oil would drain out if I unscrewed the canister without draining the oil ? If memory serves the canister sits virtually in line with the sump, if not higher so undoing the canister would allow oil to leak out ?

Off memory, I don't think you get away with removing the filter housing with a full sump. That would be something I could try next time to see for sure, but I do suspect you will get more that just housing contents.

You could give it a try and report back I guess, if you're planning to do this before my next oil change.

7 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

With those discs just get them machined on car for a perfect re-finish. Torque down each wheel bolt to prevent warping.

The weird thing is, that I always torque my wheel nuts to 76 ft lbs = 103 Nm, and this thought then popped in my head when I read your post.
I replaced my tyres last January and if I recall, I didn't retorque the wheel nuts after the service provider rattle gunned them on. I think that's what has caused them to warp perhaps.. Not sure if they have their rattle guns set to a fixed torque.

I'll have to remember to re torque them myself after next time.

[campbeam]

7 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

I actually would love to do an interim check at say 2K kms & wonder if oil would drain out if I unscrewed the canister without draining the oil ? If memory serves the canister sits virtually in line with the sump, if not higher so undoing the canister would allow oil to leak out ?

I have been doing many many interim checks of the oil filter cartridge to see how much oil sludge particles have been collected in the filter element. Only a small amount of oil leaks out say 100-150ml. In comparison, much more oil can remain in the filter cartridge housing.

The top of the oil filter cartridge housing is slightly above the top of the engine oil pan.

Most of the engine oil say 5.5Litres is drained from the oil pan when the sump plug is removed.

 

[ZZT86]

Awesome 👍

So for the 1st time in my life I'll be taking an oil filter out without draining the sump oil @ about 2K kms to inspect it just because the part # changed otherwise virtually identical to the old #. The filter is identical to Tony's above so I'm expecting no surprises.

Ash, do you reuse the whole enchilada including the supposed "one time use" only o-ring's?

Edited January 9, 2023 by ZZT86
Q

[campbeam]

8 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

do you reuse the whole enchilada including the supposed "one time use" only o-ring's?

In the past, I  have re-used the o-rings and had no leakage issues.

Recently, I have replaced the o-ring approx. every 2nd oil change. I do not know if it is necessary but I do lubricate the o-ring with some new engine oil.

Also the oil filter housing is hand tightened all the way then I back it off slightly about a 1/4 turn. Sometimes it takes a few attempts to get it properly threaded.

[ZZT86]

Cheers, Ash, I will re-use the o-rings & monitor it.

[Tony Prodigy]

On 1/10/2023 at 10:49 AM, ZZT86 said:

do you reuse the whole enchilada including the supposed "one time use" only o-ring's?

Don't feel bad if you don't replace them, after all, they will still be in excellent condition considering they would've only been replaced during the last oil service. 
I've looked at mine after draining the oil and often say to myself, "what a waste really". I reckon they'd go another service or two at least.
But for the sake of good practice, It is recommended to  replace the O-rings on each oil service, but it's not a fast and hard rule. They do last.

On 1/10/2023 at 7:35 PM, campbeam said:

In the past, I  have re-used the o-rings and had no leakage issues.

I can't see an issue with it either. The O-rings are pretty high quality and it would take a long time for them to degrade to the point of total failure, so I can't see why you couldn't leave them on, skip one and replace on the next.
If they were that brittle, then it wouldn't have been used in the first place. Good quality O-Rings can take some punishment.