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Darn it seems like every Toyota Dealership is using different oils, so how will i know which is genuine Toyota Oil???

U buy the genuine **** in a bottle from the parts section...the workshops buy the oil in big drums and just pretty much use the same on every car they get in..

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Darn it seems like every Toyota Dealership is using different oils, so how will i know which is genuine Toyota Oil???

U buy the genuine **** in a bottle from the parts section...the workshops buy the oil in big drums and just pretty much use the same on every car they get in..

Toyota can use anything they like in my car with or without my knowledge so long as the car drives reliably. By using their products and service, it will also be harder for them to refuse a warranty repair if something breaks. I am only thinking of using their stuff because i doubt dealership's integrity when it comes to servicing cars. Servicing is their main revenue, and if you think about it, the easiest way for them to go about it is to skip an oil change or cut corners during service to save time and labour even though you requested for it to be done properly. Who would know anyway?

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if you are going to drive your car like a true racing car driver everyday.. well yeah get the best oil u can find.... but if u gonna boot your car here and there.. whats the point?

Oil for a car is soley to cool the egnine components down, lubrication of it parts, cleans the engine, seals places between the cylinder walls and pistin rings and protects the metal components of the engine from oxygen water and other corossive agents.

but if u not gonna boot your car every second having really good oil aint gonna improve the above mentioned.

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feedback from my friend who used motul in his sportivo was ordinary.

i have never had a problem getting warranty and toyota only gets my car for warranty work. all other times i use mechanics i trust.

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wots that vvtl-i oil that toyota uses. on my service invoice it says

Variable Valve Timing Oil ??? or somethin as i recall

Richi, there is no VVTL-i oil sold by Toyota Australia. They only sell the 10W30 VVT-i mineral based oil and they use that for Celicas and my Corolla Sportivo. My dealership here uses that and it costs $25 for 5 liters.

Zee

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  • 5 years later...
Mobil 1 is 5W50 and it costs around $60.

Presuming most modern engines require similar protection. I owned and drove a Ausy built skyline six (Yes yes I know its not a Toyota) I covered 260,000+KM in 16 years changed oil every 10,000KM using Mobil 1 I'm sure it was 10/40 in those days and the car was still clean as a whistle and not burning a drop of oil between oil changes when I got rid of it. As My Toyota Camrey Vienta is a superior car I should be able to get as good or better results. However, as this car has a higher compression ratio and is more efficient and more highly tuned I expect more is required from oils!!? A relation of mine who is highly conversant with Toyotas, having worked on them almost exclusively for 15 years, has advised me to use 15/40 oil and change it every 5000KS he also said forget the cheap oils and that with the 5000KM oil change a good mineral oil would be fine. I will be using synthetic oil 15/40.

Edited by peregrine
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and a good thread to revive at that , i asked around a few guys as ive always ran penrite in my cars and when it comes to the sportivo im not really into anything ****y , it doesn't get the wheels driven off it but it will get 5k oil and filter changes. I saw Castrol Edge 5W - 30W on sale for 29 bucks so i grabbed it and whacked it in , next service ill be placing penrite in it as the edge won't last as i was told and am now aware of from personal experience.

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  • 4 months later...
depends how u use your sportivo...

i do the "occasional pumping" and I use Mobil super 10W40 Semi... found its very smooth on revving

50% thrash

50% grandpa driving

:D

so so true! just topped her up with some today.

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Penrite semi syn 10-50

stopped making the rolla sounding like a friggen diesel

my 380 runs 5-50 Mobil one full syn or shell helix

might try that too! my sportivos making the diesel engine sound as well! maybe its the alternator though???

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The Penrite did it immediately engine was very quiet after oil change

was running castrol edge 5 30W but OILS aint OILS and it was crap was in the 380 as well edge is not a true syn like Mobil 1

I choose the penrite as it was recomended by a mech who sees this issue all the time he told me penrite semi syn just does a wonderful job lubing the engine and quieting noisy lifters so I did it and it works

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The Penrite did it immediately engine was very quiet after oil change

was running castrol edge 5 30W but OILS aint OILS and it was crap was in the 380 as well edge is not a true syn like Mobil 1

I choose the penrite as it was recomended by a mech who sees this issue all the time he told me penrite semi syn just does a wonderful job lubing the engine and quieting noisy lifters so I did it and it works

Awesome! maybe i should try it out on my next oil change, but that wont be until like another 5000 kms as i just did mine. I just stuck to the old numbers just in case something happens. but when i DO change the viscosity, is it necessary to flush the engine with engine flush?

also i heard one of my mates uses this lucas brand as an oil additive... he says it protects the engine from the moment u cold start your engine right to the normal operating temperatures... knowing that the engine wear is at its peak when u cold start, is this neccessary?

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hey guys... can anyone recommend engine oil for our sportivo's?

since its a high revving engine shouldn't fully synthetic be the optimum? ;)

and the thinner the better? suggestions appreciated :P

5000 or 10000km oil changes depend on your driving style and type of driving your doing.these are covered in, I cant remember which but it's either your owners manual or service manual that comes with the car. I notice from the documentation returned from dealer services that they add a flush to the oil and run that through for about 10 minutes before draining. My car is a1999 Vienta so I don' know if this still applies to more modern cars. The other point to remember is to make sure you don't go over six months between oil changes irrespective of distance covered. My oil changes are done at about 2500 to 3500KS because that's all I cover these days in six months. Regarding viscosity the numbers IE 0/40, 10/40, 15/50 relate to the viscosity of the oil when cold and hot. Oils with a low viscosity of 0 while needed in cold countries are not needed in Aus as a general rule unless you live in the snow covered Alps etc: With our climate a 10 + or 15 + oil should be ideal in most circumstances. Only loss in performance. economy, or rapid circulation on start up would be infinitesimal for the first couple of minutes or so on starting a cold engine. Happy motoring.

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i always use castrol magnatec, have been on the last two cars. my dealers service department uses the same oil.

all the oils are made to strict tolerances so it doesnt make a huge impact on the brand u use.

my 35 dinaro's worth

The Magnatec your dealer uses could apparently be different to what you buy at retail outlets!!! And that came to me from a phone call to Castrol.

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lucas oil stabiliser is just a viscosity improver. in reality if your using a quality oil, there is no real benefit. older, poorer quality oils did once benefit. the other issue you always have is aftermarket additives may not be compatible with the additive packages blended by the oil manufacturer.

Penrite is a very good australian made oil. it is designed to last a certain period. as mentioned, drive like a granny change in 6 months or 10,000 k's, drive harder, change at 5,000 k's.

i am using PM Lubricants- austrailian designed and blended, been using the same in everything i own for some time now for its high load carrying ability and long service intervals. another good aussie brand to consider.

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Diesel sound? Sounds like tappet/shim issues...

Well this happens with the 20V squad anyway... Unsure if it directly applies to you guys... Use the correct viscosity and quality oil, your diesel sound should be heavily reduced... Eventually however engine rebuild is a must. Mine stock engine seems to be like this, it lets you know when you're using the incorrect oil (very quickly the diesel sound develops). Since changing the oil viscosity and quality, my "diesel" has been heavily reduced...

When your engine reaches a certain age, sometimes 5,000kms is a little too much, you're Toyota will let you know :)

Edited by DreadAngel
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Diesel sound? Sounds like tappet/shim issues...

Well this happens with the 20V squad anyway... Unsure if it directly applies to you guys... Use the correct viscosity and quality oil, your diesel sound should be heavily reduced... Eventually however engine rebuild is a must. Mine stock engine seems to be like this, it lets you know when you're using the incorrect oil (very quickly the diesel sound develops). Since changing the oil viscosity and quality, my "diesel" has been heavily reduced...

When your engine reaches a certain age, sometimes 5,000kms is a little too much, you're Toyota will let you know :)

car was running Castrol Edge 5-30W I felt it was too thin and thats when the noise developed

now runs like a dream on the Penrite

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