HOW TO: Oil + Filter Change

[RollaRollin]

I was at my local mechanic's the other day,

Looked at the desk and there just happened to be an invoice for a car exactly the same as mine

For an oil change and a '63 point safety check' it was totaled at $150

I was just like wow, I so can not afford that!

Which has lead me to do my first oil change and of course, show everyone else how I went about it.

I have never done this before and didn't have a clue but with a bit of research, googling and time under the car I worked it all out

It took me around an hour to do, after working out how to use the jack, could get it to go up, but couldn't get it to go back down, and the first time I jacked the car up on grass, bad idea! Use a hard surface :D

Take your time when doing this for the first time, perhaps grab a mate to give you hand (or to read instructions) and you will complete the task with ease and minimal fuss.

Heres what I used:

- Hydraulic Jack

- Jack Stands (Make sure at least 1500kg)

- Wood for a chock

- New Oil (I'm using Castrol GTX)

- New Oil Filter (ZZE Corolla uses a Ryco Z386 Filter)

- Oil Filter wrench

- A bucket or two

- Spanner or sockets

- Gloves

Park your car on a level concrete surface and chock the rear wheels. Warm up your car to NOT (Normal Operating Temperature) and then switch it off. Make sure you put the handbrake on and put the car into gear. Slide your jack under, and jack up your car to a height where you can fit your jack stands.

Slide your jack stands under making sure you put them directly on the chassis rail for safety and then lower your jack until the car rests on the stands.

(Scroll to bottom for tips on where to put stands)

Find the sump plug under the car and get your socket or spanner and undo it, which can be a bit tight. Don't fully remove the plug, put your gloves on and then remove the plug fully, make sure you have your bucket ready to catch all the oil that will immediately come out.

There is the oil draining from the sump

Here is the sump plug. Once most of the oil is drained from the sump, put the plug back in, with a slight film of new oil on it. Tight up by hand and then tighten with your socket or spanner. If you want to get really technical I'm sure you could find toque specs, but its not necessary

Next, find your oil filter. Most oil filter wrenches are useless on this car and it is a very awkward angle to try and undo the filter. But try your best and it will come. Be careful and have your bucket ready as some oil will come out when you break the seal on the filter. Once the oil stops flowing, unscrew your filter completely, and pour the oil out. It is suprising how much is in there. Its about 200mL. Make sure you have your gloves on for this and be careful as hot oil can burn.

Without doubt the hardest step you will encounter throughout the whole process, and its not even that bad :)

The old oil filter

The new Ryco Z386. Apply a film of new oil onto the filter before screwing back into place.

The new filter in its place, screw hand tight and then possibly a bit of tightening with your wrench.

Edited June 6, 2011 by RollaRollin

[RollaRollin]

Check your dipstick, should be blank.

Open up your hood and then unscrew the engine oil cap and begin to fill. I didn't have enough hands to show you, but I used a funnel to make it easier and highly suggest using one. Pour the oil slowly, put about 500mL in and then just have a quick check for leaks from the new filter or sump plug. If everything looks fine, keep filling. ZZE's take 3.7L of oil with a filter so put about 3L in to start with.

Check your oil level with the dipstick again. Now run the car for a minute or so. The oil level will drop as the new oil has to circulate to the filter. Check your oil and top it up some more, should only need a little bit more oil to get to the 3.7L required. In the picture my oil looks dirty, but that was because the new freshest oil hadn't circulated. It now looks really clean and new after a bit of driving.

Run your car for another minute then check the level again. It may need a little bit more oil put in then put the oil cap back on. Keep an eye on your dash for any warning lights.

Check your sump plug, and your filter for any leaks once more, if possibly park on a surface overnight so you can see if anything leaks over night.

Your done! Now remember to dispose of your old oil correctly. I used all of my oil as I only had about 3.7L in the container anyway. So I transferred the old oil from the bucket to the new oil container. Also the oil filter, ensure it is completely drained and then place it back in the new filter box. Take both of these to a waste disposal facility. Think of the environment guys, don't be reckless with oil, its highly toxic, and I'm pretty sure it can be recycled and re refined into new oil. Be responsible.

I also chucked in a new Air Filter, heres some old v new photos.

This took me about an hour to complete and I saved myself over $120!

So pretty stoked on that, and that money can go to more exciting mods :D

I recommend everyone to have a go at this, it may seem a bit daunting at first, but honestly if I can do it anyone can do it and hopefully this guide gives you a bit of confidence. Its pretty straight forward and there are thousands of more videos and guides online also, so what are you waiting for, go get some supplies and change your oil :)

Edited June 6, 2011 by RollaRollin

[Charlie Trout]

Nice write up.

You should do a gear box oil change next.

[the-converter]

Good write up mate!

Do you have any close up pictures showing where you put the jack stand?

I always put it at the side where you normally jack your car up using the oem scissor jack.

[le.vinh.zr]

I love your effort mate, you will help alot of people. Keep it up

[RollaRollin]

Gearbox oil change *shudder* haha

JACK STANDS SAFETY

@theconverter

Mate I put them on the chassis rail which runs along the car on both sides.

I know where you are talking about, and DO NOT put jack stands there, it may well hold, but I wouldn't like to be under the car if it fails

Take a look under your car, you will see two big pieces of steel running the length of the car and thats where you put the jack stands

http://dontai.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/altima-framerail-crushed-450x600.jpg

Thats what can happen if you don't put it on the chassis and where you are suggesting (not a corolla)

http://www.installuniversity.com/install_university/installu_graphics/sophomore_year/ls1_lift_points/rear_jackstands_1.jpg

Best example I can find without taking a picture. But seriously just go check under your car and you will see the 'chassis rail' stands out and thats where its best to mount your stands.

Never put your stands on control arms, things that connect suspension and drive shafts to the wheels

Simply because they move with the suspension and you can cause expensive damage or injury.

Getting your jack stands right is critical, if they fail it can be serious sh!t. Always give your car a bit of a shake and wobble before getting under it just to make sure

Edited June 6, 2011 by RollaRollin

[wanga]

another great write up!

nice and easy steps...hope this puts some confidence in people who are looking to do the same thing.

[the-converter]

Thanks mate!

I have learnt something today.

Gearbox oil change *shudder* haha

JACK STANDS SAFETY

@theconverter

Mate I put them on the chassis rail which runs along the car on both sides.

I know where you are talking about, and DO NOT put jack stands there, it may well hold, but I wouldn't like to be under the car if it fails

Take a look under your car, you will see two big pieces of steel running the length of the car and thats where you put the jack stands

http://dontai.com/wp...hed-450x600.jpg

Thats what can happen if you don't put it on the chassis and where you are suggesting (not a corolla)

http://www.installun...ackstands_1.jpg

Best example I can find without taking a picture. But seriously just go check under your car and you will see the 'chassis rail' stands out and thats where its best to mount your stands.

Never put your stands on control arms, things that connect suspension and drive shafts to the wheels

Simply because they move with the suspension and you can cause expensive damage or injury.

Getting your jack stands right is critical, if they fail it can be serious sh!t. Always give your car a bit of a shake and wobble before getting under it just to make sure

[Kenshin X]

Gearbox oil change *shudder* haha

ａｃｔｕａｌｌｙ　ｉｔｓ　ｎｏｔ　ｔｏｏ　ｂａｄ．．．　ｊｕｓｔ　ｎｅｅｄ　ａ　ｂｏｎｇ　ｐｉｐｅ　ｃｏｎｎｅｃｔｅｄ　ｔｏ　ａ　ｆｕｎｎｅｌ　ａｎｄ　ｗａｌｌａ．　ｄｒａｉｎｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　ｏｉｌ　ｉｓ　ｅｘａｃｔｌｙ　ｔｈｅ　ｓａｍｅ　ａｓ　ｄｒａｉｎｉｎｇ　ｔｈｅ　ｅｎｇｉｎｅ　ｏｉｌ．　ｆｉｌｌｉｎｇ　ｕｐ　ｉｓ　ａ　ｂｉｔｃｈ　ｂｅｃｕｚ　ｏｆ　ｗｈｅｒｅ　ｔｈｅ　ｐｌｕｇ　ｍｉｇｈｔ　ｂｅ　ｓｉｔｕａｔｅｄ

[lateralus]

a couple of things i might add:

when undoing the sump plug to drain the oil, take off the oil filler cap. it releases some of the vacuum in the engine and helps the old oil drain a bit easier.

when replacing the sump plug, always use a new washer to ensure a good seal.

before putting a new oil filter back on, always clean the metal surface of the oil filter housing on the engine with a rag to get rid of any dirt, old oil, etc.

fill up the new oil filter with around the same amount of oil that came out of the old filter. when you start cranking the engine, all oil has been completely drained from the lines to the oil pump. filling the new filter with fresh oil helps to eliminate the 1 second (approx) where your engine has no lubrication (better safe than sorry).

filters should be hand-tightened and then turned clockwise another 1/4 of a turn. any tighter and you'll risk stripping the thread on the block (have fun with that!).

Edited June 7, 2011 by lateralus

[Kenshin X]

fill up the new oil filter with around the same amount of oil that came out of the old filter. when you start cranking the engine, all oil has been completely drained from the lines to the oil pump. filling the new filter with fresh oil helps to eliminate the 1 second (approx) where your engine has no lubrication (better safe than sorry).

Good idea. But for cars who have the filter mounted sideways: GG :P one example is the zre. I did johnniebois yesterday and my uncles spectron van

[Kenshin X]

Oh crap. I just realised I forgot to take pictures of the transmission oil change yesterday! Oh Wells. When I do someone else's next time ill make sure I take some photos :)

[lateralus]

fill up the new oil filter with around the same amount of oil that came out of the old filter. when you start cranking the engine, all oil has been completely drained from the lines to the oil pump. filling the new filter with fresh oil helps to eliminate the 1 second (approx) where your engine has no lubrication (better safe than sorry).

Good idea. But for cars who have the filter mounted sideways: GG :P one example is the zre. I did johnniebois yesterday and my uncles spectron van

lol, been there done that

my camry had the oil filter on the front of the block facing diagonally downwards. taking the oil filter off always meant a nice stream of oil dribbling down the front of your block.

when you drive it again, the engine would be smoking for half an hour, lol :P

[the-converter]

I went to my local council tip to dump the engile oil FOC if under 10 litres.

Ring up your local council, they will tell you where to go.

Thanks, that is very useful

A stupid question here, where do you dispose the used engine oil. I cannot just chuck to the rubbish bin on the street, that's not right

Edited July 13, 2011 by the-converter