450HP/tonne

You can add up to 4 wires to the spiral cable, the ones marked "o" are not used by anything on any model globally, but the ones marked "X" have some usage (even if in an overseas market that uses A/C control via steering wheel ... how lazy!). Source 1: I pulled apart the spiral cable and took the below photo (from a 2009 AT-X): Note: The "X" on the bottom row is for the display button that would be on the higher grades, like Sportivo. The phone on/off hook uses the existing audio wires. Source 2: The REAL Toyota repair manual (not the one floating around the net).

It's more likely to kill the environment. The cats (not the meow type, the monolith type) on the headers are there for cold starts, as they need to warm up very quickly. Moving them further away means a poorer cold start performance.

3"POLISH ALUM.AIR INTAKE SYS-MAFS ADAPTER/TUNING KIT Thats the Aluminium part I was looking at, made by "Spectre Performance" (Part No. 9405, [or 8705 for the chrome plastic]) It just cost me $54.40 (after PayPal conversion). Only compromise is that this is a 3 inch outside diameter, where the throttle body starts at 3 inch inside diameter :( and from there it tapers down to 70mm at the valve. Off to the shops on the weekend and I will share my solution then. DJKOR, the standard intake at the MAF is 3 inch inside diameter, did you by chance measure the inside diameter of the Aluminium part of MAF adaptor you got?

Unfortunate timing :( Toyota dealers should have some experience with this one, so if you speak with your dealer they should be able to tell you if the noise is a known one from the front dash pad clips. If it is, then they can quote you on the retail repair. It's a big job, so expect a price with too many numbers before the decimal point! Be nice and ask if there is anything they could do about the high price. If they can't and you're the hands-on type, the dealer might be able to help you out in ordering the parts and you can track down a repair manual ...

good work Daryl. where do you get the MAF adaptor ? I cant find anything like that here in hobart, even our "autobarn" is closing down so choices are very limited.also I have found if you slide battery as far to the left as possible and put in your stone tray mod, it will draw cooler air from inside the guard rather than the hotter air off the fans/radiator. I have seen them here: http://www.naparts.com.au/PDF/SEC1%20NAPARTS%202010%20Catalogue%20LOW-2.pdf Chrome polymer finish on page 10 and Aluminium on page 12. These guys are in North Melbourne and I'm looking at what I need. I have to check it fits the standard sensor. Daryl, where did you get yours (and for roughly how much)?

Go look at your TCU and see if it has V2 at the end. If it doesn't you should go to Toyota to get it replaced. Just say I experience flaring, gear changes lag and sometimes jump when changing gears. ... then the dealer will get you to reproduce it. If you get it done for the heck of it (ie cheating the system), when you have no problem, Toyota will know when production changes (you don't know if its more than the V2 ECU) were made and if your vehicle could have this issue. If it's not possible, then it will be you or the dealer paying.

Facelift has a different part number 89530-33160, but there is no supersession from pre-facelift (89530-33021 is the latest you can have [and you do]). Oh okay. So your telling me that they never replaced the my computer or they have?? I can't tell if they did or not, but if they did the new part for your car would be 89530-33021. If they didn't it would be either 89530-33020 or 89530-33021. You have the later of those two, so everything looks good for you!

Facelift has a different part number 89530-33160, but there is no supersession from pre-facelift (89530-33021 is the latest you can have [and you do]).

Since I don't have: 1 - liquid metal 2 - Reef I cannot add to chart any how this is the final rev till i get 2009 colours codes AUR30N Go your hardest ... 070 CRYSTAL PEARL 173 MAGNETIC SILVER 209 INK 580 AURORA GOLD 583 PLATINUM 753 JARVIS BLUE 930 FLINDERS GREY 061 DIAMOND WHITE 1A0 INCA SILVER 1AB STORM GREY 1D3 DARK SILVER 1D4 SILVER ASH 1G2 LIQUID METAL 3CB VERMILLION FIRE 3L3 ORPHEUS RED 3N4 AUTUMN BLAZE 3N6 TUSCAN RED 3N8 SIMPSON RED 3N9 CRIMSON RED 3Q6 AZTEC RED 3R3 RED EARTH / WILD FIRE 4M9 PARCHMENT 4N3 TITAN SILVER 4N5 CASHMERE 4Q0 YANMAR BEIGE 4R8 INFERNO 6P2 POLO GREEN 6P3 EMERALD 6P7 SILVER LEAF 6P8 CRYSTAL ICE 6R4 RACING GREEN 6S8 MORNING DEW 6T1 SAKANA SILVER 6U7 CYBER GREEN 8H6 MARINE BLUE 8J6 MOONSTONE BLUE 8K9 KEPPLE BLUE 8L3 BOTANY BLUE 8L9 NOOSA BLUE 8M7 ICE BLUE 8N3 HARBOUR BLUE 8N8 PACIFIC BLUE 8P1 BISHOP BLUE 8P4 CASCADE BLUE 8Q1 RHAPSODY 8R0 BLUE MYSTIQUE 8S4 ARCTIC FROST 8T0 CARRIBEAN BLUE 8T4 TUNGSTEN 8V2 REEF ATY TAXI YELLOW

Hi 450HP/tonne. Thanks for the reply but it appears I may not have been completely clear about the problem. When I say the gauge does a nose dive I mean it drops almost instantly when it gets to a certain point. It's not the normal non-linear drop that is the result of the tank shape and other factors. I'll be getting LPG fitted in about a week and a half, after which I will be able to attack this little problem properly. Now I see why you asked ... In the Aurion, the sender unit is part of the fuel pump assembly. It involves removing the rear seat cushion, some sheet held on by butyl and then some screws. The Aurion contacts are exposed and could be cleaned or you cold perform a test on it (just be sure to have the pump isolated if you switch the ignition on!). Other than that, the sender is not serviceable (again, for Aurion). Check the manual you have and follow the fuel pump removal procedure would be my advice. Find out what's causing it and clean or replace as required. If the sender is part of the pump assembly, this may explain the cost ...

Here is my cars life story, according to the combination meter. Need to add between 0 and 0.5 L/100km for actual results.. Only ever use 98 RON, usually BP ultimate. Weekdays involve 2km suburban, 10km freeway, 10km of freeway at 30km/h or less and 3km industrial roads. Return is 3km industrial/peak, 20km freeway and 2km suburban. L/100km (km) 10.0 (260.3) <- only non-98 RON running, first fill with 98 8.2 (622.9) 7.8 (503.0) <- was down at 6.1 after 150 km 8.0 (682.4) 8.6 (685.7) 8.0 (724.0) <- still with 11 litres remaining! 8.3 (741.7) <- only 4 litres remaing 9.0 (655.0) <- end of Christmas holidays 9.4 (603.8) <- discovered S-mode 9.5 (591.3) 8.6 (693.1) 9.3 (666.1) 9.1 (648.6) 9.0 (597.6) 8.8 (647.6) 9.3 (600.6) 9.5 (570.5) 9.3 (629.9) 9.4 (602.8)

Sorry to bear the bad news, but that's how they are designed. Full means you have enough fuel and empty means you've driven too far without stopping for a drink. Everything between is just an image and is not a linear correlation of litres of fuel remaining. I took a photo of my Aurion when it was new, showing 438.6 km travelled and 290 km cruising range ... Yet the gauge was at the half way mark. My economy was 7.82 by the end of the trip, so a range of 895 km from 70 litres. From there it starts to drop quicker and quicker, and the cruising range leaves lots in hand (166 km in my case). Any repair or replacement will not help, unless you get really serious and design your own sensor. They are not designed to be serviceable.

One persons opinion ... Not sure how they expect ride comfort and driver feedback to both be better in one car? They say the aurion is so quiet, whilst not giving the driver any feedback - does that mean the saab is loud with lots of body roll and you get feedback from every bump in the road? As for panel gaps, we only see the aurion. What are we comparing this to? In my head I'm imagining we are comparing it to a cardboard box, because nothing good or bad is said about the Saab. I was expecting Saab vs aurion, but I mostly read about a part of one car then it moved on to something else without any real comparison. We don't even have a final verdict or summary of pros and cons. Summary: don't use this review if you own a Saab and are considering buying an aurion ... test drive one for yourself.

The ticking noise is common among all Aurion's. Some just sound louder than others. It's nothing to be worried about. It's mainly a combination of the injectors and valves. Don't forget the VVT-i Solenoid valves also give off quite a loud tick noise: Also found here on the other bank (the second one is half hidden under the intake): Pull off the engine cover and see if this is what you are describing. If the engine is cool, you can also touch them to feel and understand why all the noise.

Small amounts of drool are beginning to form in the corners of my mouth ... Considering it will weight under 600kg with me in it, have the same rear track as the aurion front and will have a significantly shorter wheelbase, a LSD would be great (as would a manual)! The idea at the moment is to get the thing running as soon as I can, leaving room for future upgrades (manual transmission and forced induction are two of these). I'm lucky to be able to get in contact with the guys working for Peter Kittle - the guys who gave the 2GR 600kW at the flywheel ( http://www.autospies.com/news/Toyota-Jimco-2000-buggy-24066/).

Sometimes a little push is all it takes to get the ball rolling. We need less talk and more action. Call it peer pressure if you want... but hey, it get the results. Plus they get the satisfaction of knowing that they can say "take that... I did it". Look at Evan (Evo7), a little pushing went a long way. Anyways, it wasn't intended to be a personal attack or anything so don't take it harshly. I agree with your comments totally, people have got to pull the finger out if they want something done. No use them sitting around sucking their thumbs, complaining they don't get what they want! I was formerly a procrastinator, but I've done a lot of work on that ... Which I will be able to reveal the results of in due time (building a new car takes a while for anyone, particularly with only $50 and a few hours a week to spend on it). I know your comments weren't anything personal - just an observation on my part, which I agreed with.

DJ, you're in a "man up" kind of mood (3/3 of your latest posts) ... anyway! As I'm not a fan of linking to other forums, I instead point you to a google search for "MR2 2GR": http://www.google.com.au/search?q=mr2+2gr Have a good look at the first result, post 10 and 11! Yes, as the post goes on it gets specific to the MR2, but the engine and transmission mating is what you're looking for. Preview: "2) Make the engine and tranny mating surfaces work. 2.1) use the m14 helicoil kit to put an m14 thread in the top right bell housing hole on the 2gr motor. it isn't threaded stock 2.2) both dowel pins align, make sure you use both. 2.3) grind out the front of the block where it says "2GR" for clutch hydraulic cylinder. it'll be obvious exactly what needs done when you try to install it. 2.4) do some very light grinding of the same mating surface near the front of the motor for the passenger side output plate to clear. I did this one with a file, it was pretty light interference. 2.5) a bit more grinding towards the back of the motor to get the back motor mount to sit flush. This cuts through one of the unused bolt holes 2.6) ensure the mounting surface is flat from any defects possibly caused by the grinding above. THIS IS CRUCIAL!" Pitty about all that grinding on a perfectly good block!

When the A/C compressor switches on (magnetic clutch in the pulley), it adds additional load to the drive belt and therefore engine. When stationary and idling, there is minimal drive load on the engine and its easy to calculate the required engine RPM to handle the load (hence idle up). When driving at slow speeds the engine can't idle up, or you'll start accelerating into the car in front. You are welcome to show your dealer and have them explain, but its likely to be that the small vibration is more acceptable than acceleration. My previous car was a manual and I almost got caught out twice when the A/C idle up kicked in during peak hour traffic (when I was travelling closer than I should have).

Actually now that you say that, I only notice it with other passengers in my car and that's the only time I run my air conditioner.. It might have something to do with the air conditioning running I noticed it 3 times on the way to work yesterday (in first or second gear at 1000rpm, using the accelerator to hold a constant speed in peak hour traffic). Two times I had the chance to turn off the A/C which, by chance or not, made the vibration go away! Check that yours is the A/C, which is probably a common trait. If you are not worried about what it is, you probably will stop noticing it!

Air conditioner or vacuum mount (front engine mount)? Best thing is to demonstrate the condition to the dealer and then allow them to drive it too. On the day of your service, go 15 minutes early and find a place you can reproduce it, close by to the dealer. If you have no luck, see if the dealer has a demo/used vehicle you can test drive to see if it's a trait of the car that you became very aware of. This happened for me after I started driving a different road to work, very similar sensation with pedal vibration and some booming. For me it happens in traffic at slow speeds in second (possibly third) gear, when I lift my foot off the accel pedal and rest it on the brake with no pressure (and rarely when going back to the accelerator). If it bothered me more I would watch the rpm as it happens to see what the transmission is doing and be ready to turn the air conditioner off to see if it stops. Because of other idiots on the road I decided not to play around with it during peak hour ...

Recommended service specifications (factory setting may be different) ----- Front ----- Toe-In: 0 +/- 2 mm Ackerman: Inside 38.37° +/- 2° Outside (Reference) 33.55° Camber: AT-X, Prodigy, Presara -0.67° +/- 0.75° SX6, ZR6 -0.75° +/- 0.75° All Right-left difference 0.75° or less Caster: AT-X, Prodigy, Presara 2.83° +/- 0.75° SX6, ZR6 2.75° +/- 0.75° All Right-left difference 0.75° or less KPI: 12.33° +/- 0.75° Right-left difference 0.75° or less ----- Rear ----- Toe-in: 4 +/- 2 mm Camber: -1.25° +/- 0.75° Right-left difference 0.75° or less

... Just don't drive a V6 Tarago on the same road, or you will find yourself UTTERLY shattered/disappointed/saddened!

The reason for this is in no way a cost reduction! It is more so a weight reduction, as the material on the inside of a solid bar is really doing nothing in torsion, the peak stress is concentrated at the circumference. The designer can therefore choose a tube with a slightly larger outside diameter over a smaller diameter solid bar, whilst saving half the weight. Just like different springs and different shock valving, the outside diameter and wall thickness can be tuned to give the desired dynamic performance with compromise for packaging (a 50mm diameter tube with 0.25mm wall is close in torsion to a 25mm diameter with 2.6mm wall or a solid 11mm bar - but the 11mm bar is twice as heavy as the 25mm tube which is 4 times heavier than the 50mm tube). Its always a packaging versus performance versus weight compromise!

Just remember to change the instrument panel lights back when it comes time for a roadworthy inspection or to sell - blue unfortunately isn't what the ADR's (Aus. Design Rules) allow for many of these ... including brake warning light, indicators, high beam, etc.

The yellow line on the hose is correct, if you have it everything is ok. How is this a poor engineering decision (as an engineer, I don't agree with you)? The rubber material wasn't as it was required, so the rubber is being replaced. This is being done free of charge. If you want the all metal hose, the dealer will need to remove the engine (yes, I know individuals can work around this, but a dealer can not and will not do it this way due to the repair manual procedure set by Toyota in Japan). If you want your car to be out of action for a few more days and risk additional issues that may arise from the removal of the engine from your car ... Toyota would not inconvenience thousands of customer like that when its not necessary. What would your complaints be like if the dealer needed your car for a week and told you that the engine needed to be removed? Do you still think this was an accounting decision?