450HP/tonne

If you increase the total piston area, you decrease the force applied to the pad. This is inversely proportional, so doubling the area will half the force. You have to be very careful to not change the front / rear brake balance to the point where braking could become unstable (front end, or worse rear end, brake locking and resulting loss of control). Pad surface area doesn't directly influence ultimate braking capacity (but it will affect cooling), but the pad coefficient of friction will. 20% higher pad coefficient will result in a 20% higher braking torque, but that may mean reduced service life. The radius of the brake pad centroid on the rotor also has a significant change when you play with things, if you double the radius, you double the braking torque (ie proportional). Summary: If you're going to change one end (front / rear), you have to do all of the above in the same proportions at the opposite end to ensure you don't wreck! PLEASE speak with a certified road authority ENGINEER in your state (VASS in VIC) before you drive on the road.

Is this a trick question? It'd be zero, wouldn't it? Negative, due to internal friction in the bearing and brake drag forces?

Before this gets out of hand, I have to use some of DJKOR's images (all credit to him) to bust some myths. Standard Aurion has been measured at (linked to forum): Chris - 193.1HP (144kW) Daryl - 209.9HP (156.5kW) Rowan - 199.7HP (149kW) TRD 263.5HP (196.5kW):

I don't have an AT-X, just wondering if you can take a photo so we can be sure? I know the side skirt is held on by multiple plastic clips, which are next to the chassis rail, but this doesn't sound like what you're asking about:

Boot? The part is under the hood and behind the drivers side headlamp, between wiper washer fluid and engine coolant tanks.

The site said they have stock and shipping is by USPS Priority Mail International. I would expect 1-2 weeks, but will let you know.

Exactly the same part for both models.

Well in the interest of doing just that, I had to accept the challenge. It's SFA saving, but it still is cheaper http://www.sparkplugauto.com/denso/iridium-long/denso-iridium-long-fk20hr11-spark-plug.html Parts: US$62.70 (US$10.45ea) Shipping: US$31.25 Total: US$93.95 Edit: LOL. Interesting. I just looked at your post again and realised it is the same damn shop. Just reading this again, now I feel ripped off by US$0.85, because the item I found through google had "Toyota" in the title. The item you found in the same store, with no manufacturer name, is an extra 1% cheaper :( I have seen that on eBay before, but never at an online store (will be checking from now on). At least it's cheaper than eBay!

Doing well so far then ... ;) Rules are that they must ship to AUS (I found some for about US$8.50, but it said no-deal at the checkout). On a related rant, I'm pretty annoyed that people in the US get all of their cars and parts for so much cheaper than we can locally, mostly due to their volume of parts. We need to increase our population so that we can get cheap car stuff! For example, Bob Jane quoted me AU$795 per wheel, which is available in the US for US$248. The part is only made in Japan ... so why does it need to be so different???

I had some paypal credit remaining, I bought a set of 6 Denso FK20HR11 for AU$91.01 shipped from www.sparkplugauto.com in the US. Parts: US$63.54 (US$10.59ea) Shipping: US$31.26 Total: US$94.80 (= AU$91.01) I guess someone will now find them cheaper, now I've spent the cash.

Genuine factory and genuine replacement plugs are the Denso ones above (FK20HR11). 6 of those shipped for under $100 is the best idea I've heard ... Click here for service specifications (page 3), showing this plug as the only service part. The same part appears in the repair manual that is floating around in this forum (not the camrystuff.com one, but the site appears to be down for the past 3 weeks anyway). That said, I know the Champion C57YC fits/runs and is only $18.55 each (6 for $111.30) excluding shipping from Victoria (that's just the first site I looked at). That engine was running an aftermarket ECU, so I can't say there wouldn't be any problems.

My trip B has never been used, so at 35,550km it currently reads 5,550. The old-school mechanical trip meters always went back to 0, so it would be designed to behave the same as what people are familiar with. This makes it 10 times better than the old trip meters that went to 999.9 before rolling back to 0.

To keep all the info in the same place, here is the previous topic I started and the info contained:

You could remove the vehicle speed input wire from the back of the unit ...

Some part numbers may have been updated (so check with your dealer, or some forum members, if important), but here is a general reference for Toyota Aurion part numbers (this site covers pretty much all models globally): 1. http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/q_G_2007_TOYOTA_AURION_GSV40.html with diagrams but older data [about April 2007]) Edit: now with data to Jan-2011 and improved images and interface. and 2. http://toyota-general.epc-data.com/camry_aurion/gsv40r/ better data [but still not including August 2009 facelift], but no diagrams, hover over the grade to understand the abbreviations) For both, no TRD or Touring unique parts info available (TRD comes up as ZR6 if entering VIN). I hope this is either interesting or useful to you (I'm not sure how I will feel if it is BOTH interesting and useful?).

About 12 months to go then? For me, I'm deciding if I should sell my ZR6 (novated lease) at the end of the year, before possible depreciation when the new Aurion hits, then lease a cheap car for ~6 months until the FT-86 concept is available, or pay the rego and insurance until the same time ...

I usually get 660km with my normal work run before I have to fill - at an average of around 9L/100km, with 98RON BP Ultimate. Best range has been 830km (from 69.2L in a 70L tank!) and best economy has been 7.3L/100km - both on separate highway runs. Anyway, have a search for the fuel economy topic on this forum. Don't use too much injector cleaner, as some have been known to make your spray pattern worse. You shouldn't need to use more unless your engine has rough idle or difficulty starting. As for the fuel filter, check your warranty and service book for the standard service interval and when it was last serviced as such - it was due for the first change at 150,000km. If this was done it is good to 300,000km (if you can manage that). In summary, I expect all to be well ...

Yes, ANCAP purchase enough vehicles to give a maximum of a 4-star rating. It is then up to the manufacturer to supply a vehicle and pay for the testing for the side pole test (pictured above), which can then allow a 5-star score. So the passenger seat belt warning ticked a box that gave the car a good chance of a 5-star score, so Toyota Australia decided to test (basically the first time Toyota had done this). The actual test done was on a pre-facelift vehicle, due to identical structure. Summary: for people who obey the law and always wear seat belts, the 4-star Aurion (before facelift) is no different in ANCAP performance, compared to the 5-star version. This is one reason, among many, as to why Toyota do not fully agree with the rating system and previously chose not to have the optional (expensive) testing done.

Any year No body / structure / airbag changes ...

I've avoided aftermarket filters ever since I saw a fuel filter (not on an Aurion) that had a hole straight down the centre - in this case all the fuel would bypass the filter element. And this was from a well known and readily available brand in Australia ...

I can hear mine do the same thing quite clearly when the car has been sitting in the sun all day at work and I turn out of the parking row QUICKLY. After that first time I don't really hear it again ...

Correct, S stands for "S Mode", of which that S is an abbreviation of "Shift Range" ...

5-star from facelift in late 2009 (~October?), for model year 2010 vehicles. Adding the lamp/chime for the passenger was the only change required for the safety rating (so if a 2007 model had it, it would have been 5-star from the start).

Nope, it's just as bad in D and S. If it did this, the vehicle new car features would state this, which they do not.

Dealers can adjust how it operates (driver, passenger, both, neither), so it may have been set differently.