450HP/tonne

We all have to remember to leave out the "FT-" ...

After looking at what is possible with an Australian Aurion, an aftermarket kit would be the go. I didn't need door locks in my project build, so I thought I'd have some fun:

Lower rear surface of the Aluminium oil pan on the passenger/left side, beside the bell housing.

600HP = num num num ;)

That would be a tad silly wouldn't it? I have legitimate access to the info ... and much more (well well beyond Saris). I'm just annoyed that dealers are accepting these 'orders' when I can't place my own actual order (with VIN & batch No) :(

I have seen the model launch schedule, showing production start, embargo end, advertising campaign, wholesale and retail dates ...

Unfortunately, dealers won't know details until the sales EMBARGO ends in about 2 more months. em·bar·go /emˈbärgō/ Noun: An official ban on trade or other commercial activity with a particular country. Verb: Impose an official ban on (trade or a country or commodity). Synonyms: ban - prohibition - interdict So anything they are doing now is bending or breaking the rules ...

I only see the secure mounting and ground clearance (over 100mm OK) as the only questionable items for defects.

For what period of time should they be supporting out of warranty whine noises? Are you willing to pay a higher premium on both new and used vehicles for the above? My first car (not a Toyota) was built in 1976 and had a brake booster failure in 2005, who is responsible for repair costs? If there are only 1% of vehicles affected (for a non-safety issue), should they inconveniently call everyone in (backtrack), or fix only the vehicles reported under warranty? For how long should HTC guarantee that your battery holds charge, Dell that your PC hard drive doesn't die, Samsung that your plasma doesn't burn out? Like Toyota, they have warranty periods too ... If you work in an industry which sells goods and services, you will have your own standards.

Naturally, I think you should only own cars within warranty in the future. I think you missed the part of the warranty book that stated it is NOT a lifetime warranty. You should be happy you have been offered support by Toyota, as you will get nothing like that with so many other manufacturers - particularly when you were not the original owner. I'm surprised that you accepted the second vehicle with the whine, then reported this after you read something on the Internet. The accepted thing to do is agree to purchase on the condition that any issues are rectified first. Reading your posts, I took it that your tone was attacking Toyota. Had you told people to check for this during a used car test drive, I wouldn't have had an issue or needed to reply.

Around $1600 (from memory) if you order through a dealer :(

I don't agree ... I drove for 400km on a highway using 100% cruise control and could touch the brake rotors as soon as I came to a halt. The tyre was not the same temperature as when I arrive home from work. If you don't turn corners or brake, you are generating less heat and tyre pressures will not increase as much. Plus, the tyre pressure will stabilise after some period of constant driving (say 15 minutes if you started cold), at which point the tyre pressure will increase no more.

I have posted the below info in a previous thread ... differences are: - blower - manifold - idler bracket - drive belt - VVTi union and hose - injectors - ECU - transmission oil cooler

Something I don't recommend ...

julian040859, please stop posting in a TOTALLY UNRELATED topic.

Not sure if it will be related in your case, but it is worth tightening from an ongoing durability point of view. The torque required is 18 Nm (which feels like nothing with my 1/2" tools). Don't do it to your maximum, as you'll easily damage the alloy head.

In 2 years I have never filled up with more than 9.9L / 100km. This has included driving ranging from bad peak hour traffic, spirited driving (ie set of tyres worn out in 45,000km) and highway miles. Tyre pressures at 38 front and 36 rear were typically used, but were adjusted based on driving pattern, tyre age and tyre wear. Not sure the dealer will be able to help very much with new information not mentioned above. As the dash always reads high numbers after refuelling, it may be suggest you to refuel (to 3 clicks of the bowser for example), drive 300 km on a 100km/h highway, with no load, and refuel again to the same number of clicks.

A sign from above?

Maybe drop the "FT-" and have it as just "86 Club" ... as that is the likely model name in our market. I also suspect TRD parts will all be dealer fit option, so no need in the title just yet.

How much for the metal part? and I assume it will be free of charge if its the same rubber rite? Cheers I think you may be talking about the wrong pipe ... the one picture is well above the oil filter mentioned by the OP. I'm suspecting the oil cooler hose based on the description. Labelled 15767 below (lower right): There is a metal version of this one available too.

Yes, it works ... hence the effort to write my previous post.

no just the manifold to the cat flange is what i meant. I think you may have misunderstood me. The cat IS WELDED to the y-pipe on the lower section and on the upper section, the cat is part of the exhaust headers. Per above: The other flang is between the TWC (Cat) and sub muffler:

+11 :D

+1 trip for me and +5 trips for workmates ... and we're still all alive and kicking. You receive more radiation in the flight there than you do in Japan. Much of the Toyota vehicle production is over 600km away. I'm with Mick, let's move on ...

I have a new set of hub caps, among other parts, in Melbourne - please send PM if interested, I'm having trouble sending from my mobile sorry.