450HP/tonne

A MY10 Presara roof leak would be after the fixes and the USB would be per the current Toyota website: http://www.toyota.com.au/static/vehicles/aurion/content/pdf/aurion_ebrochure.PDF

The ambient temperature was probably higher when you drove on Ultimate :P Avgas is even better!

Part of the grip snaps in and the main section is held by plastic clips and a couple of screws. You should be able to refit and fix the gap issue. Scratches are a different story ... but you should know how to remove before going to a wrecker.

I can't confirm nor deny ...

no beer = :(

ACC should be what you're looking for. But as the part is a lighter and not a power supply, you may find the fuse is OK. If so, a new socket will probably be required. I hope it is just the fuse though ...

Although not something I'm suggesting to try, but if you do end up removing the injectors, I would be curious to know their condition (macro photo). Here is a near-new one from my spare engine:

Am I eligible to enter? Posting a Coles gift card is preferred ...

You're right, reading that while awake helps ... ~$289 on eBay ... time to speak with a wrecker?

As both banks have a pending code, it may be something they have in common. Quick and easy check is the A/F relay and fuse (there is only one relay and one fuse), per the below diagram:

Only 12 months to go ...

My for sale topic has disappeared from the buy and sell section :( If you don't have luck finding the parts, I have a dash pad for sale (in Melbourne). Send me a message if you want to know more.

Check battery charge first. 13.2 - 14.8V at 2000rpm with no electrical load. 10A or less no load. 30A or more with heater on HI and high beam lights on.

+1 (mine was only 10 days, guess the extra few cents I payed went to express shipping)

Search is your friend (whole vehicle manual):

If you just need the front plastic cover and indicator lens, it will be about $75 for parts (unpainted) or about $175 for the full bolt-on assembly (again unpainted). The later would be cheapest labour cost, but it really is only a medium degree of DIY difficulty. I have a whole passenger door with mirror and drivers side mirror for sale, but in white :(

Things like that are usually due to environmental differences like fuel. I can't say for sure in this case. There is nothing stopping you from providing your own from the USA ...

Have you read the news about how bad the situation really is for Toyota?

I've tried that and the noise gone, what caused that noise you reckon? I am thinking it is to do with the preload in the transaxle and driveshafts as you stop (the resulting torque could affect the engine mount / isolator performance). Stopping whilst in neutral, then shifting to drive is also good, per the above neutral trick. The rpm before and after shifting to neutral is exactly the same, so nothing to do with that. The vibration does not return for me. I have been using BP Ultimate 98 since new, so no difference there either.

Blinking A/C should mean either: * Compressor solenoid circuit (mechanical or electrical problem) * A/C amplifier (ECU) I have a new compressor available for sale. Send me a PM if it works out to be the case and you don't like the Toyota part price ...

There are 2 closer to the centre of the vehicle (500mm from the rail), which are suspension stiffeners connected to the rear subframe.

10 days from order to hand (they arrived today).

I have confirmed it does include changes up to January 2011, but does not include updates from February 2011. DJKOR, can we merge the 2 threads on the same topic?

Summary of the above: The one-way clutch allows the alternator to free-spin when you shift up a gear (which can be at high rpm / high shock loading). The inertia of the alternator allows it to produce energy until belt and alternator speeds match.

If you shift to neutral (when it is bad) for about 2 seconds, then back to drive, does it go back to a smooth idle?