Kenshin X

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i need to loose 20 kgs myself... <_<

i always followed the manual's recommendation and jacked them at the jack points with no problems. only one time i lifted the car incorrectly and the car dropped sideways (almost on my foot) and i bent one side of the bottom of the jack and bent a few metal parts where the jackpoint is. but that was my stupidity. anyways to answer ur question. u CAN put the jack stand where u lift the car using the OEM jack but make sure the contact isnt where the notches are. u want the jack stand to fully contact all the side of the frame.

yes this is also the reason why the meets will be all in THIS THREAD so that it does not clog up/clutter the forums. all people who want to organise a meet must pm either me or tash and we will update the first post accordingly

i like the blue footwell

if i was the panel beater i'd only worry about the parts where u'd see (its not like you are going to tear down the car to see if they done every jam and every spot inside under the plastic trims. but at least they would have to do under the bonnet and in the engine bay as well. if thats the case then it would be a big job for them. ask them and see how you go :) also +99999999999999999 for black (doesn't matter matt or gloss)

Time for the long awaited oil change since track day. cars done 5000kms since then. look at the oil i was using when i dropped it -_- found that redline oil when i dropped it the same amound of ks as the hpr5 was darker than the hpr5! the texture of the oil wasn't very appealing too. lucky i decided to change then. anyways, in with the new oil and this time a Baldwin oil filter. nice red colour :P got the baldwin filter for 10 bucks compared to the 19 buck ryco filter and the SIN5 cost me 55 bucks as my cousin's uncle had a employers 25% discount off everything in store! FTW! after hearing so many ryco filters failing i decided to go with the USA made filter and see how it goes. flushed the engine using genuine oil from toyota and dropped it and the filter. oil was looking pretty dark still. whacked in the oil and the filter and started the car up so the oil goes through the filter. after turning it off and letting the oil settle for a top up after my shower. turn the engine... click click click (rapid clicks). i left the headlights on too long (stupid noob FML) so went this morning to my uncles and borrow his jump leads and used my other uncles van to jump start the car. also resetted the ECU and the cars running very smooth again :) see how this oil goes for the next 10,000kms. however i doubt i'll be doing that much from now to november track day. so i might have to drop it again before i track.

sorry you're not making this clear??? pictures??? from the way u make it sound it looks like u need a new skirt anyways. someone here might be able to help you. if i'm not mistaken there would be some side skirts avialable for the zre152 on ebay?

15) put that aside and begin to strip the red paint off the needles. take the needle apart (there are 3 pieces in total) here is a picture of one already done for you compared to the others. after this make sure you wash with water and dry. tip: i didn't know this but u can use the flat screw driver covered in the mineral turp and cloth and force rub it off. not too hard u don't want to break the needle. i didn't know this and i kept using my hands to rub it off and it took me 1 and half hours for each needle!!! also be careful. This stuff is toxic and it melted the rubber off my screw driver. 16) once done get your acrylic gloss paint and paint the needles on the bottom only carefully masking around with tape so it doesnt run off to the top part. do 3 coats and i used my mrs hair dryer to quick touch dry the coats. 3 LIGHT coats will do. dont try to cover everything with just one, it wont work 17) all done. put the needles together with some small double sided tape. be sure you face the bottom reflectors white up otherwise you are going end up with dull/black needles no matter what colour u use i used white paint as i found that white will reflect any colour led from the board. 18) now assemble the cluster back the way it was before leaving out the top cover and hook it up to your car. remember to connect the negative terminal of the battery back on... Calibrating the needles 1) you need to first turn on the engine and then have the needle motors set themselves to 0/C/E and then whack on the needles when the engine is off. As for the tacho and speedo, work with the tacho first. when the car is warm it will idle roughly around 800 rpm. put on the needles but dont push them fully inside. rev the car abit and once ur happy with the rev meter move on to the speedo... i found with mine i need to put it on abit below the needle stopper and then move it over the stopper and let it rest at 0. go for a drive and if the revs go with the speed, ur good (i used my GPS on my iphone for speed detection ) Will take a few tries but in no time u will get it mine took around 15 mins to calibrate. For those who have an On Board Diagnostics (OBDII scanner) you can see exactly where the needle should be so you can calibrate it quicker Finished product: Before: To This: To This: Ended up changing the 7 and 8 LED too For those who aren't rocket scientists out there: NO, I didn't max out the speedo... (sheesh <_<) enjoy! :)

12) now de solder all of the leds shown here. I couldn't save any red ones becuz for some reason they were stuck on in the middle and i had to end up chiselling ALL of them out… I could keep most of the white ones though. to do this u will need the solder wick to clean one side of the led use the screw driver to fling the led up and then de solder to other side to lift the led off with tweesers. remember the polarity of the led (should be a marker on the corner of each led) picture of the removed leds (white) picture of new led comparison to a 5 cent coin (tiny yes?) 13) now swap over the red leds with the white ones for the needles test them... all good? now... 14) THIS IS OPTIONAL for the inverting of the LCD screen u need to reverse the polarising filter. take the stock one off with a sharp knife and then peel very carefully. once this is off it will leave a residue and u need to clean it with a scratch proof cloth (glasses cloth will do) stock and new filters

8) turn the cluster around a remove the 8 screws holding the back of the cluster. 9) set it down and carefully lift off the middle part of the cluster 10) Remove the LCD for the ODO. U need to GENTLY pull on the LCD so the pins come out. Make sure the pins come out straight and you do not touch them otherwise they will bend/break and GG for you 11) now you can separate the circuit board from the rest of the plastics closer view of the board

Disclaimer: Neither TOCAU or I take responsibility if you fry/blow up any part of your car due to incorrect handling of your car parts etc. Hey guys, been wanting to do this mod for a while as i was sick of looking at the red cluster for the Sportivo. Also as most of you know that I've changed my centre console colour to blue colour. I was thinking of modifying my instrument cluster so it flows with the centre console and the rest of the car. This guide is for the Levin cluster manual but the Sportivo cluster is exactly the same. Just uses red LEDs all around instead of the white tacho and red needles like the Levins. Plus a note you should take is the Levin cluster had a white backing and the Sportivo has a red backing. Somehow you can take the red backing. I haven’t tried it but I’m sure someone on the forums will hack into it sooner or later. This mod shouldn't take you more than a day provided you have everything listed below. Things that you need: Soldering Iron (a pincer one especially made for the SMD/SMT leds would be much better when taking the LEDs off) Solder Solder wick/Solder sucker scissors acrylic (gloss) white paint very fine paint brush polarising filter tweesers double sided tape small sharp knife screw driver (flat head and phillips/4 star) mineral turps methol spirits cloth/rag x35 PLCC-2 SMD LED 3.5mm x 2.8mm (colour of your choice or however you want your dash to be) make sure they are AT LEAST 800mcd brightness otherwise it's going to look dull and dark and might be dangerous when driving in the day as you cannot see the dash properly Important note: When choosing the colour LEDs for this mod be sure that the voltage supplying to the LED isn’t higher than what the LED can take. The resistors that are in the cluster you cannot change. Stock white LEDs require the higher resistor so you can be sure that most colour lights will work on stock Levin cluster. I’ve had people try putting blue LEDs on stock Sportivo clusters and have the LEDs blown themselves after a few hours of usages because the voltage supplied to the LEDs were to high BEFORE YOU TOUCH ANY PART OF THE ELECTRICAL OF THE CAR. UNHOOK THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL OUT OF THE BATTERY FIRST! 1) Remove your instrument cluster via the following steps a. unscrew the top part of the surrounding that holds your cluster in b. Pull the bottom of your surround until the sides of the surround pops out. there are 4 clips (2 on each side). you then need to push the vinyl on the top up a bit so u can pull the surround down and out. there is the clip that held the screw in they will fling out so be ready to catch it. c. bottom of the cluster there are two clips. u need to use a flat head screw driver to push the metal bit away from u so the plastic hook attached to the cluster will pop out. unscrew the single screw on the top and unplug the harnesses feeding into the cluster. (there are 2 for the sportivo and 1 for the Levin) d. take out the cluster View of cluster (Levin) 2) unclip 4 top and 4 bottom clips and remove the plastic covering 3) unclip 4 more top and 4 bottom for the surround 4) now with a very small flat head screw driver wrapped in duct tape or some cloth get under the needles and GENTLY lift them off. now i found that there was no way to take it off by just pulling and i broke the 3 white clips holding the needle cover... but u will know later why this is required anyways. remember which one goes in which motor. 5) once all off there are circle clips that you have u take out to remove the fascia 6) just get under the facia and gently lift it off and these will pop off 7) u need to remove the top frosted plastic. to do this u will need to remove the 8 screws holding the motors of the tacho/speedo/temp/fuel gauge motors out. when you remove these make sure the motors are sitting in the correct positions. EVEN THE ORIENTATION IS IMPORTANT!

what years your aurion? i maybe able to pull out the codes with my tool if u come to the meet tonight

stock internals, stock ecu (i like the idea of the stock ecu adjusting itself), cai, and axle back exhaust. will go for full cat back later on in the year to mate with my varex i have on now. not touching internals until my engine blows up

with stage 2 u ge more response down low sacrificing top end power. good for zipping around in stop and start traffic. with stage 3 u get more higher end power but at the cost of lower end. depends what you want

black smoke in a petrol most likely some extra soot in the exhaust pipe from bad fuel. blue smoke is the oil seals in the engine have seen better days. but in saying that, dont be alarmed. the FIRST thing i'd do before driving a stivo hard is give it a FULL service with oil and fliuds etc. i wouldn't trust whoever sold it to u even if they did say its been serviced and they have reciepts etc. service it urself for peace of mind congrats on ur new purchase :)

welcome dude! PICTURES!!! also u need to come to our mini meets :Di like the look of the GT4-N. white? ;)

use the search button mate, also read the "already covered" thread in the corolla section before posting these things up. it will help the rest of the community by reducing the clutter in the forum

it came with it when i bought the car. autobahn should have it. dont cost much :)

unless they charge 300 to 400 dollars for an hours work, i'd tell them to where to go... the install cost me 100 bucks but then another guy that was working there (he left apparently because something between him and the owner). but yeah the only thing he tried to do was take the headers from underneath. no go. i told him that he had to take it out from above and it worked. so that will save u some mucking around.

i think i stated above that i turned them up-side down... :P

r u serious? exhaust bros only charged me 100 to get it fitted... <_< they should look after u since u got the cat back from them

Bahahahahahaha! love it lol BAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA

Additional LED mods. The cigarette lighter: This mod isn't too hard but it requires you to break the stock bulb and then solder on the LED replacing where the stock bulb was. Behind the gear shaft cover the connections to the cigarette lighter, pull these off. one of them should have the light attaced to it. as you can see its the ugly Casio green colour again... unclip the whole bulb holder with the bulb and bring it inside to do some hacking :) the condom shouldn't be too hard to get off, its like all the other ones in the centre console. the bulb itself however, u can try to get a sharp nose plier and take it off but 95% of the time u will ed up breaking the damn thing. if u do just clean it up and there should be two metal connectors in the holder to put the legs of the led in. i didn't have to solder them in cuz the led sits nice and tight. feel free to solder them on if u want a good connection :) Take the holder out and plug the connector back in. if it doesn't work then most likely u have the led the wrong way. so instead of taking the led out and swapping it, just swap the connector the other way and then it should work (remember LED have polarities :)) Put everything back together again. results here Reversing the polarising filter: If you read through the Intrumental Cluster Mod, u'll know that its basically the same thing. With the sharp knife take off the stock filter. With alcohol and a rag clean off the residue and with a new filter stick it on the LCD screen. (please remember to orientate the filter the right way before you cut and stick it on!) Without going into the techicalities of why it reverses it, the light when passes through these filters, doesn't bend and then what was dark when the LCD screen was stock is not coloured and what was coloured is now dark (or darker in my case) Result AUTO button on the power windows keys: ok with this mod there is already a LED in the auto button. but as u can see this button's colour is very dull looking so we gonna brighten this thing up. First take the assembly out of the car: 1) Pry open the door handle on the inside (be gentle and pry it from the outside to inside) 2) pry open the assy and housing and unplug the connector behind it. 3) there are 3 screws to take out and you will be left with just the assy 4) there are 4 more screws (which i thought was useless to unscrew as the bottom part of the assy cannot be separated with the circuit board as its been soldered on 5) Now with your fingers, carefully take off the buttons on the assy. u need to GENTLY put pressure on the buttons and it feels like you’re going to snap them off but a bit of tender loving force will have them off 6) now remove the black plastic to separate from the circuit board 7) Remove the clear plastic clip located in the auto button light space. you have to remove this in order for the new led to fit in... (unless u can find an led that is small enough to still fit here) 8) you can see the tiny LED thats soldered onto the circuit... now since you cannot separate the bottom fro the circuit to get to the bottom of the circuit. u need to break off the led from its legs and solder the new one on top of it. you can also clearly see the "+" sign so you know which way to orientate the LED. They way i know which one is positive on the LED is that the connect inside, you see one of the ends longer than the other and this looks like a "-" sign so its negative 9) replace it with a 12V led or LED with resistor on it. the way i did this was that i melted abit of solder on the leg and then transferred abit of it onto the board. It may get a bit frustrating at first but patience is a virtue... 10) put it all together and this is the finished product! Make sure before you clip everything back, you test it out first. I just didn't want to take out the buttons agian becuz of the "snapping" sound, :( Thats all and enjoy!