Kenshin X

hi mate and welcome to the forums! have you tried to clean the idle speed controller? mine would sometimes idle between 600-800 rpm and is really rough. after i cleaned it, it was much better and even idles between 800 to 900 rpm. becareful of the screws that hold the IACV, they are a bitch to get off, read this guide and u'll know what i mean

it just looks very shiny! lol also i wanted to note. i did reset my ecu and found that when going into neutral (warm engine), my engine does idle a little higher than before (around 1.2k then drops to ~900rpm, whereas before it was between 900 and 700 rough idle). Will the ECU relearn it quickly or have i done something wrong? i'm guessing its all the extra air going thru the throttle body as its cleaner? also i found that my sticky acellerator pedal still happen even after i cleaned the TB :(

heres how dirty mine was after 140,XXXkms inner outer partly cleaned tried to remove the 3 screws on the ISCV and snapped off the tip of my screw driver... -_- then i went to toyota for them to take it out and they took 2 out but the 3rd one they rounded off! :o so i went to parts and they said that the screws arent available anymore! omg what do i do? bolt specialist should have the same bolt and pattern right? :( ------------------------------- edit: went to conventary specialist and got replacement bolts with a 8mm hex head so i can easily remove it in the future... they didn't give me any washers to suit but i think it should be alright. i'll get some washers hopefully tomorrow if they have some. make sure they are high tensile ones some of you will inevitiably round the screws off so this is the next best thing

haha damn nice ;)

true... i just looked at the join date. :) did you see the sticker on my car and joined up? or mick dragged u in ;)

hey man he didn't intro himself as "toyota-kid" so his fault :P

ahh yes! i remember your red rocket! hehe :)

nah i didnt mate...i just gave up :(

i second what goz said. since changing back to stock shifter and the stock bushings, i found that the TRD shifter was a **** factor. i'm guessing the TWM is even more of a **** factor becuz at leat the TRD shifter had the solid metal bushings to hold the assembly down. the stock shifter has the rubber bushings around the bolts in the assembly so the "locking" feeling isn't felt as much. however do change your gear shifter linkages to the solid bushings, this help you feel and have more direct shifting. although when i bought my car it was with the trd shifter installed already so i never felt the stock shifting through normal driving until a few days ago. but entering the on ramp to the freeway, i noticed that the TRD made stuff all difference and is in fact a waste of money. it made me shift at around 0.00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000001 seconds faster than stock. from first hand experience, stay away from the 220 dollar TRD shifter and stay even more away from the TWM shifter. instead, spend 10 bucks on the solid bushings and some rubber washers and nylon and metal washers and change the stock linkages in the engine bay. they will do the same as buying a short shifter. remember we are all talking from a practical point of view and some people like me track their cars, but if u wanna go for the "sick-azz" looking short shifter, then go for the TWM... or just hack the stock shifter and get it rethreadded to fit the stock knob

massage with happy ending HAHA :D speaking of which I either need my neck cracked or a deep tissue massage...

pretty sure it wont be as its normal wear and tear on the seats. japanese leather is crap anyways. if u wanna keep the car, u can get it retrimmed in aussie leather for 1k for the front seats. i'm assuming the aurion's seats are japanese leather???

u kidding me? the 2zz-ge was one of the best engines ever to come out from toyota :P

u'll know in a couple of months...

I wouldn't recommend engine braking as it increases the likelyhood of over revving. The engine compression, at the track, doesn't slow the car down with any noticable effect over the brakes themselves. sorry should have made myself more clear. USE the brakes but with the engine brakes as well. i've tracked quite a few times and using both engine braking and brake pads is better than just using the brake pads/engine braking themselves.

FOOD!

if u are tracking i suggest u go engine braking. worse thing is when the brakes fails when u really need them ie. emergency stops

today? i looked at my car.

those camber bolts are on my sportivo atm and i'm pretty sure the same ones are used across the many range of corollas. i know for a fact that the zre uses the same bolts as the zzes. i got pedders bolts btw. whiteline should be similar

by my rays ms01r rims :P 1k :D

as above victoria only. thanks

just becuz he got ur bonnet LOL :P