dyslexik

Replaced the Sportivo's Factory Panasonic battery which costs $1050.. which has lasted for so long since i guess it rolled out of the factory in 2003. Bosch battery installed. Was not easy to source a battery that had the same height as the Panasonic battery, just so the factory bracket can fit.

The exhaust shop guys always find time to keep themselves busy in between exhaust jobs

New custom catback system installed in Feb 2011.

Bump - 16" rims+tyres added

ITG air filter + TWM shift knob sold. Stock rotors and pads sold.

What's way better than the RE001 & the new RE002 is the Potenza S001 or Michelin PS3. Potenza S001 (NSW $289)and michelin PS3 (VIC $304) are far superior both in dry and wet conditions. S001 is a tad bit better in progressive steering and cornering grip than the PS3.

Not that difficult to install. Just use a butter knife to flick out the washer by softly tappping on the other end of the butter knife with a hammer, if u dont have a dremmel tool. What's a pain is trying to align the engraved shift pattern knob accordingly in the end. There is an install guide u can download from the TWM website after choosing you car's make & model. Scroll down to the bottom for the PDF dl link. 1st time I did it took me just under 2 hours. 2nd time I did it on a mates sportivo took me 15mins. It's aligning the shift knob with engraved shift pattern is what will eat up ur time. The TWM crew also include a hardcopy printout of the manual in thr box.

Owner could had possibly swapped the mufflers around from an ascent for his/her mate or so. If it looks dodgy, then best to just move on from it. Ascent muffler is pretty damn quiet compared to stock sportivo muffler. How do I know? Because i've driven them both - Ascent rental and my friend's dead stock sportivo. Do you have a link to photos of the car or the advert itself?

hey mate, Had a similar prob happen in my gf's civic. The speedo dash, cd headunit, headlights and parkers were flickering for several days. Also, it blew the fuse for the digital clock on the dash. Since it was due for a service the week after, I had advised Honda of the electrical fault and filmed the problem on my iphone. As i filmed inside, the front headlights and then the rear last, i noticed only one of the brake lights was flickering on and off. So had my gf turn off the engine, while I replaced the faulty brake bulb. After that, she switched on the engine again and the electrical fault was rectified. All that stress caused from a dodgy batch of bulbs bought Supercheap Auto. Check if the electrical fault had been caused by a faulty bulb - brake lights, tail lights, headlights, parkers, etc.Check your fuses and replace the ones which are blown. - Honda uses PE fuses which are quite expensive, but lasts longer than aftermarket ones. Check if Toyota uses PE fuses too, if not just try and find a decent aftermarket fuse kit. If you can't, you can buy assorted Fuse kits (50, 80 ,100+ units) on eBay which are shipped from the USA. Hopefully, your problem would be similar and hope it's nothing major.

Spotted Hong zippy past this morning at the Royal Womens Hospital intersection .

One of the best things i liked Japan for, was that: every girl was in mini skirts during Winter!!! even when it's 0-10 degrees celcius day and night! Just imagine when it's spring and summer time.... hehehehe

It's awesome filled with weird and wonderful things. The Japanese are very friendly and will go out of their way to help you when your lost. Had one council worker actually walk us to the bike rental place in Kyoto even though he was on the way to a work site. Also had another young couple stop and give us a lift down a mountain area were we had gotten ourselves lost in the woods. I stuck out my thumb as a joke with friends, and the first car that drove by slowed down and stop as they past us. Then the driver actually jumped out of his car to ask another local of the place we wanted to go to for us. Both him and his gf was so kind. Wow John, thats awesome lol. Didnt see any of these square watermelons there... saw a lot of honeydew/rockmelons that were at an average price of Y2,300 (About AU $30).

Akihabara - famous for electronics and "Sukebe Otaku" things We been to a lot of different areas in Tokyo inclusive of the above mentioned. Even tried the carp fishing in Ichigaya, as we saw it on a TV documentary here prior to leaving Oz.

Duy u goose, I didn't say it stayed at 8.2K when the Mobil oil was put in by Footscray Toyota. The limiter actually dropped below 8K rpm and you should know from memory, as you test drove my car while it still had the Mobil oil in it. Did it not limit to 7.8-7.9K???? The car struggled pretty much throughout the rev range past 4K rpm... kinda felt the engine was it's maximum peak at 7K rpm. In addition, the oils were the same viscosity of 10w30 too. So ultimately, the different brand label and oil properties would be the main reason for the differing engine performances. The oil I'm using is in a league of it's own, the pioneers of fully synthetics for that matter.... and I haven't had the need to top up the oil as yet, since the oil on the dipstick remains at a constant level.... 7,000+ kms later too with the oil still remaining to be a clear honeycomb colour with no burnt smell to it. Truly..... "Oils ain't oils" Redline - Pure group 5. Have yet to try this, as I wanted to try Amsoil first due to it's proven history.Royal Purple and Royal Purple XPR - Still good at protecting the engine, but it's marketing gimmick of increasing HP was deemed to be void as it was solely based on consumer reviews and not on facts. But drag strip racers and others still use this oil for their extremely high horse powered cars.... so as long as it's protecting the engine, then there is no reason why you wouldn't use it.Amsoil and Amsoil racing - Group 4/5. Number 1 in protecting engine wear using the 4-ball wear test. Has decades of proven history in protecting the engine, lasts longer than all other oils (longer change intervals)... and I know for a fact based on personal experience, that the information I have read about the Amsoil products stands up to its word. Nevertheless.... they are the pioneers of fully synthetics.

Now just enjoy ur new mods, as I'm loving my new custom catback system... "high flow much?" hehe.... :D and thats with the varex closed. You heard it fully open when i left last night with the missus.

Well it feels comfy ever since my body got stretched in all directions after stacking it hard a few times whilst snow boarding in hakuba, Japan. HBA TV ad "...and my legs went that way...and my head went that way!"

From what I can see, the guys who have no trouble viewing the photos, have the TOC Supporter member status. Maybe admin, has updated something while I was away. *shrugs*

Are the HPX pads u had installed heavy duty? If it is, it means there is a higher metallic content over carbon to make it last longer and eb more durable. My EBC greens are carbon compound with kevlar reinenforcement. Won't last as long as other heavy duty pads, but they perform better. Really depends how hard a driver brakes and how often i guess. But yeh, its no biggie, as long your pads ain't screeching or eating your rotors, it's all good. Now you've fully opened your eyes to the fact that it's a never ending cycle of adjusting your driving style in any scenario you may find yourself in. Thinking on your feet+instincts will allow you to progress onto a different level of driving to those who solely rely on performance mods for results. Keep at it Duy, driving isn't just dumping the pedal, it's having an understanding of how you car behaves and if it behaves differently for some reason, try and understand what made that change, even if it was a a pebble on the road, etc. All I can say is that I can feel the ride quality difference in my car when i increase the PSI from 38.5 to 40. Bit harsher and thats when my dampers are set on comfy daily ride settings.

Next time we meet, I'll have a play with the friction point while the car is stationary.

If you wanna adjust the friction point of the clutch, i think you need to adjust the push rod. I've seen my dad do it to his work vans in the past as he liked to be able to have the clutch fully in by depressing the clutch pedal by only 3 inches. But thats the way he likes to drive. Same goes for adjusting the brake pedal sensitivity. You can have your brakes so even lightly depressing (1cm), the brakes will initiate 50% braking power.... a mate's older brother had done this to his Honda Accord back then. Again, it's the way he drives, and driving his car from Sydney, it was ridiculous to drive because it was super sensitive. But when he drove it, his braking was so smooth that you wouldn't think he had a sensitive brake pedal. The best thing you can do, is to get use to it and if you still find the friction point to high, then just adjust it or have it adjusted accordingly. Remember, the car will not adjust to your driving, you have to adjust to it.

well that's good to hear your adapting your driving technique to the new gear installed. Some people have stuff installed and expect the gear to make miracles without any improvement in their driving. So unless you replace your engine mounts with new ones or reinstall the ES mounts, that axle tramp will continue. As for the lightened flywheel, I was referring to the inertia of the flywheel itself and not the car. When you have a heavier flywheel, the revs drop down more slowly as opposed to having a light flywheel. I don't think it's got anything to do with the speed of the car dude, because you can test it when the car is stationary in neutral and blipping the throttle to see how fast the needle drops down when the throttle is closed. I would rather have a lightened flywheel over stock, because it will compliment my driving style and technique. For me, the stock flywheel is too slow and could do for some improvement in that department. But so far my clutch is still good, so until then Xtreme clutch kit will have to wait. Was there a high inertia Billet Chromoly flywheel (Xtreme Drift/ Drag Flywheels) available for our car? Also, you know how you mentioned that Moh suspected the gearbox oil was over filled, he may be correct. It all depends on how the oil drain was performed - optimum drainage temperature reached?. Toyota advised me that the gearbox oil needed to be at a certain temperature to properly drain, prior to pouring in new oil. listening to Mark's mixes.... he's got mix tracks of Wonder Girls! woot woot! hehe

Duy, Did you ask Moh if Xtreme had the following combination kits below: Xtreme clutch kit with 4.5kg flywheel: $770 Xtreme clutch kit with 3.9kg flywheel: $820 I can't remember if the flywheel was aluminium or chromoly. Moh told me, the kits are built with the best materials the industry has to offer and are available to Xtreme. ARP bolts are used. Well Moh should have mentioned what Xtreme do in any case. And it's also stated on xtreme website "Xtreme range has been developed by globally sourcing the best products for each unique application". Was the reason why you opted for the 5.4kg as opposed to the 3.9kg, due to being able to still land in lift for consecutive gear upshifts? If so, Moh would have recommended for you to get a medium weighted flywheel - is that the 5.6kg one? The lighter the flywheel, the more difficult it is to land in lift, unless your able to adapt to the newly installed goodies. If you had the lightest flywheel, you would stall the car countless times, just to get use to it. The reason why some people go the lightest available, is for the dramatic increase in throttle response. You will notice the rev pin go up and drop down a lot quicker than it would compared to stock or medium weighted flywheels. Btw, listen to Trung's advice on taking it easy on the clutch. Just like an engine or an entire gearbox, it's best to run it between 400kms - 1,000 kms prior to any spirited driving. Remember, you invested that much money into your car, now you just gotta maintain the value of that investment. Btw, you forgot to show me the fading in your green rims yesterday. Well done in getting it done. Have you let Moh drive you car so that he can try to isolate the old and existing issues you have with: 2) axle tramp while landing in 2nd gear. With 1) limiter still at 7.8k, try doing an oil change and use the engine oil i'm using.

Shibuya, Tokyo Scooters - Rukus - Akihabara, Tokyo Bentley - Just before i could take a snapshot of the rear, a guy in a dark suit walks out of an shop alley way, opens the driver's side door, throws a brown leather duffel bag on the front passenger seat, looks at me and gives me a friendly nod as I say "very nice car you have", jumps in his car and jets off. Just goes to show that most Japanese people are friendly in nature, even if they are a Yakuza member. Osaka SUVs - Parking lot - Odyssey - Himeji Estima - Kyoto Prius - ZZE wagon Estima - Rukus - Odyssey - Wish - Evo - R34 - Engine idle: brup, brup, brup, brup... GTI wide body kit - US bunny hopper & low rider- Video - http://s634.photobucket.com/albums/uu70/slpi2/?action=view&current=Japan-Himeji.mp4 Hiroshima Castle Estima - Miyajima Suzuki Lapin (looks old, but new) -