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Tard

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Everything posted by Tard

  1. Yes and good luck for something "big". Stick to DS. Only ones that really hold something big around here.
  2. Funnily enough on my Aurion, the same clamp lost its tension. It had been a rather long time since Toyota serviced it so I gathered that it could have come loose from non-maintenance. To tighten the, you need the proper tool. You can get them from eBay for cheap but just have to wait for delivery. I didn't have the time and used a good cable tie. Did the job quite well. But yeah, just double check for tears.
  3. Looks to me like you have suffered the effects of lowering your car . Not to say it was caused by it, but these things happen sooner in those cases. Have fun.
  4. Looks genuine guys: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151298937528
  5. Give Harrop a call. It's their HTV-1320 that is fitted to the Aurion. They can quote you on the coupling etc.
  6. The Century Heavy Duty is a pretty good battery. Had one die in similar situation. 07 model died in 5 years. Used the car nearly every day and no issues starting. Then travelled for a week or two and returned to a dead battery. I never performed any maintenance on it though so I got what was coming though on second thought, I could have revived it. I didn't have a charger and just went out and got a new one. Only $165 from Super Cheap with a 24 month warranty. The OEM Century Heavy Duty (black) was rated at 430CCA whereas the newer retail Century Heavy Duty has 540CCA. Not a required improvement, but must mean an improvement nevertheless. If your battery eventually kicks the bucket for good, I'd definitely recommend sticking with the original type.
  7. Best to get tell your Dad unless you can wait till at least Tuesday to get a new taillight which will be a few hundred and may even require a day to order in. That is provided you can buff out the damage in the bumper. If not, you will have to add some more hundreds to that and some more days.
  8. Looks like djkor has the same brand. I always thought he had a K&N.
  9. Mmmmm. Noise. http://distilleryvesper5-9.ak.instagram.com/5d33ed30b75f11e3a02f12c442f65965_101.mp4
  10. What have you guys been cleaning your dash with? I've seen Aurion's that have been parked in the QLD sun nearly every day for the last 4 years without a single issue. I would be suspecting the care that has been put into them if they are deteriorating.
  11. Just because it's turbo, doesn't mean it has to be Euro... or 4 cylinder. There are many Japanese turbo cars out there. And there are many V6/V8 turbo cars. Not saying supercharged cars aren't good, but I've just heard so many negative things about the TRD Aurion... mainly along the lines of "spend you money on a better car that you can actually modify". If you want a supercharged car, hate to say it, but look into a Commodore, hahaha. Some food for thought, here is a TRD Aurion against a Ford G6E Turbo with some easy modifications: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgVogjXX_Jg
  12. Realistically, it was good that he probably walked away from it the way you made him do so. Some people will never learn so at least it didn't result in him getting the satisfaction he was trying to get. In my opinion and from what I have heard numerous times from others, DO NOT GET A TRD !!!! You money can be spent more wisely and get better bang for your buck. Look into a car with a turbo. You have a lot more room to play with then.
  13. We have quite a few 2ZZ Corolla and Celica laptimes around QR and Lakeside. If you can beat one of them around any of those two tracks, I'll give you a big thumbs up. If you were to take one on at Willowbank down the 1/4 mile, they will hold you for a bit down the track but you will then gain on them. But we're talking about beating them at the 1/4 mile by about a second which realistically, is a pretty close race.
  14. Oh you. Time to tszuj up your Aurion. Where shall we start?
  15. Actually an SX ZZT231 would probably be faster than a ZR, same engine and slightly less weight :P This man speaks the truth. Additionally, their engine may be smaller than the Aurion but they can certainly give you a good run for your money. Same goes for the 2ZZ Corolla. Best to keep this fact to yourself Wildseven. The point of the OP is valid though, but what can you do.
  16. I think there is a dude here with an Aurion in Bundy. That may be as close to forum Aurion owners as you may find in the meantime. Edit: I stand corrected. You may find a couple of Aurion owners closer. Whether or not they are still active is another story: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/45069-anyone-wrecking-an-sx6/?hl=townsville http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/38069-hey-from-townsville/?hl=townsville Might have to expand your meet strategy to other Toyota's or cars.
  17. But the majority male population on this forum might love it.
  18. The SX6 seats. ZR6 are full leather. I'm not sure if SX6/ZR6 have extra side bolstering over the AT-X ones, Tard can you clarify this at all? Come to think of it, I'm not too sure. I haven't really looked into such a thing in depth. From the looks of it, the Sportivo seats have (slightly) extra side support on the lower cushion, but the upper cushion looks to have the same: AT-X: Sportivo SX6: TRD:
  19. I'd probably pick seats on this order based on grip: - TRD 3500S - TRD 3500SL - SX6 - ZR6 If you can find a set of TRD seats, those would be the way to go. Just finding a set would be the tricky part, but if you did, they would be worth it. The extra bolstering on the side is quite good. The suede inserts on the bolstering adds just that little bit of grip to stop you sliding. Sat passenger in a TRD on some spirited drives and the seats hug you quite a bit. The reason I'd probably go the 3500S seats over the 3500SL is due to the extra suede that those particular seats have. The 3500SL seats grip, but the leather can be a little slippery. Same goes for the SX6/ZR6.
  20. I wasn't judging you on selling it to "someone if it was showing any signs of dmg". I'm judging you on selling it without getting it repaired first, regardless of whether you sell it for cheap. What's to say that just because it isn't showing signs of damage that it is still in good running order. It can still have some serious issues that will then become the buyer's issue. If it is apparently "running fine" when you sell it, are you going to explain the history of it to the buyer? Because I would imagine that explaining that to a buyer is certainly going to make the car more difficult to sell, even if it is cheap. The way I would see it is that despite how you took car of the care, hearing that you could have had it fixed (for peace of mind) for the cost of the excess but chose not to gives a good impression that you didn't care much for the car. It's like any person selling their previously thrashed car. These details are rarely ever relayed to the buyer simply because it's going to deter them from buying it. People take this into consideration when purchasing a used car and accept it as a risk. Only difference here is having an engine run without oil is potentially going to be worse than a car that has been thrashed however maintained. There is a reason why there are two options. Cash settlement to replace the engine, or paying the excess to have it fixed. Both situations would result in repairs being carried out so the car can then be sold knowing that any damage from running it without oil is rectified. Both these options weren't intended to leave you with extra money in your pocket.
  21. It's things like this that make me wish karma will bite you in the rear. Such a dodgy move to consider pocketing the money and selling the car as is.
  22. Maybe give Toyota a call to find out? Going by the American pricing (which tends to be half of what you pay here), you would probably be looking at about $40 each: http://www.onlinetoyotaparts.com/oemparts/toyota-155/8262007050.html http://www.onlinetoyotaparts.com/oemparts/toyota-155/8262033030.html They are pricey because they are a part that one typically doesn't blow. You have to make a pretty bad mistake to blow them.
  23. Amazing what you discover when you check everything. Not skipping the fusible links as per your first post could have saved you a lot of hassle.
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