(mr2)

So I guess the lesson here is to not over fill your engine oil then.....

So he started is car and it was over revving?? how high? Possibly a fray in the accelerator cable. Where does it look like the oil has come out from?

Regarding the pod filter. Are you going to box it and have air feeding into it from outside the engine bay? Why not just run power to the boot and have a sealed battery. If you are having an amp then you are going to have to run power anyway so I think you will be better off having the second battery in the boot with the amp.. leave the airbox as it is.

Hi Jen, I looked it up again. That picture is for a ST204 Celica. There is the Engine ECU, Immobiliser ECU and central locking ECU ( There will be a couple more in there too) I think what you have is the Alpine Gen1 system. Give this a go..

My mum lost the key, i got the code that came from the key but im not too sure if i have the master key Here is how to work out if you have a master key or not. If you have a remote key = master If the key head is black = master if the key head is gray = valet find the security light in the car.. it will be the flashing light.. put your key in the ignition ( you might need to put it in and turn on) If the light goes out straight away = Master. If it lights up for half a second = valet Edit.............. Ignore that.. Reread your post about it being keyless so the above will be useless to you.. the price I said before would be correct if you have a master.. Add around $300 - $500 if your immo needs to be reset to code in a new prox key.

I think it might be the wireless door lock ECU you are after. I can check again tomorrow when the beer wears off :) :)

Free postage and will give you a couple of spares http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-SMD-SMT-PCB-2-Terminals-Momentary-Push-Button-Tactile-Switch-6x3-5x2-5mm-/331212496293?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item4d1dcd9da5 I think this is a better deal than sending 2 over.. I can though if you like as I do have some.

That is way too expensive for the switches, I normally get them in lots of 50 for a lot less than that. Can you post a picture of what you need as I don't think I have any Toyota remotes to check, I most likely have a a few switches. As for the factory soldering it will be hard to match with an 8w soldering iron. I have a 70w Hakko which is very good but I do use it all the time. A bit pricy if you only use one now and then.

Kanmuri. have your spare units been coded into a car already? kevin. Expect to pay $400 - $500 for a spare remote with override key.

It will be a tactile switch soldered on to the PCB. You can solder new buttons on which are fairly cheap but just make sure you don't damage any of the components on the remote, otherwise you are up or a new remote :)

You wont be getting it from me for that price :) Phone your dealer and get it from them. If I sell it to you I have to add mark up, labor to cover my time to go and pick it up and postage. And why not use a locksmith in town. Actually, if you have a locksmith contact why didn't you just ask him about keys??

I am in Adelaide so no use to you :) Yes, any locksmith SHOULD be able to do this... not a key cutter in the shopping centre :) I will look up the programming later and get back to you.

Remote key Price and part number $240 - 89070 06480 Non remote $45 - 89786 60220 These prices are just for the key, they still need to be cut and coded. Like I said earlier if you code in the keys the only extra cost you have to worry about is cutting, which will be around $30... GET THEM CUT TO CODE, NOT A COPY.

The reason they can't do it is because they don't know what they are doing :) :) All I do are cars so I know a little bit about it. If they stuck it in their machine and said they can't do it then I'm guessing your key has a "G" stamped just under the plastic. What most places do is clone the key, this copies the transponder information from the original key and puts it on a new chip. The "G" key can not be done as the encryption on the key makes in unclonable ( For now) The $220 that you were quoted from the dealer would be for a blank remote key, uncut and unprogrammed. Yes some of the Chinese keys work, but also a lot of them don't so it's up to you if you want to take the risk. If you have any issues getting prices or straight answers from the dealer you can PM me your VIN ( Don't post it here) and I can get back to you with the part numbers and prices for a genuine remote and non remote key.

I just got some information. It's actually simple. Buy a toyota techstream with installation disc. Plug into the car and connect with laptop on the other end. Choose an option on the software. Put in the already cut key and do whatever next. Total cost for a nonremote key is about 30$. Not sure of remote one. Some said one made in Thailand would work You can do it that way, or... I can tell you how to to it on board with your existing master key. No point in buying the Chinese ripoff version of Techstream. Cost for a non remote key if going genuine is around $40 for the key, get it cut to code will be another $30.. programming it in yourself, free.. If you don't have a master key... it gets pricy and Techstream isn't going to help.

The key in the prox keys is only for when you need to manually unlock the car by the door lock. Like a flat battery in your car or your key.

I can get a lot of the aftermarket remotes in or supply a non remote key that you can code in. I have a feeling though that SOME of the G keys still need to be done diagnostically. If is is just a spare I recommend not getting a remote key, what is the point of spending all that money for a key to stay in your top draw :) The most important thing though is that you have the master key... Don't loose it or you will be looking at $3,000 to replace it :)

The security light will help tell you if the car is accepting the key or not. Get her to note what the security light is doing before she puts her key in ( It should be flashing) and when she puts her key in and turns the car on ( If she has a master key it should go out straight away, if a valet key it will stay lit for half a second then go out). If it continues to flash and the car doesn't start then there is possibly a fault with the immobiliser system.

Thanks for the follow up Julie. Good to hear that it fixed itself. Electrical issues can sometimes be tricky to fix.

$3,000!!! really I'm sure there will be a couple of second hand ones floating around from people that have done a 2ZZ upgrade. Maybe try Road and Track in QLD. With the ECU "resetting" after being disconnected that doesn't sound right... What issues are they causing?

That will most likely be the Body ECU as in the above diagram. I will also reply to yout PM here. Not always. The receiver is picking up the remote signal when you are in the car, close to it and less interference. When you are outside the car you are a couple of meters away ( I think they are supposed to work up to 15 meters with this remote?) and the receiver is also shielded by the cars body as the antenna is inside the car. Then there is all the other RF interference around us on top of that. If the receiver isn't getting enough voltage it might have issues picking up a weaker signal. The Toyota guys should be checking to make sure that the voltage supply is enough as this is one of the checks in their manual. Labor wise I don't think they should be working on the car for more than an hour as long as that is the issue so I would think that by getting them to do it you will be looking at around $500.

Hi, Most of what I do is on the immobiliser side not the remotes so I'm not 100% sure what it could be but this is how I would look at it. First check all fuses are good and your car battery voltage is over 12v 1. The remote - You already replaced this and it also works when inside the car, so you know it is coded and works. 2. The receiver in the car - It is working as the car Locks/ unlocks when you are sitting in it just not out side, so it might be an issue with this. Not enough power getting to the antenna for the range or other failing components in the receiver. So this could be the "Body ECU". I don't know if the antenna is located in this but it should be easy to get to and test ( See picture ACV36) If you have a multi meter check that it's getting enough voltage. There is 1 earth and 2 positives going to it ( See picture ACV36 BECU 1 and 2) If replacing the Body ECU I don't think it needs toe be coded to the car so you should be able to get a used one from the wreckers, you will have to recode your remote ( I can let you know how) and tune your radio stations back in :) 82641-YCO90W - When I look up this part number it is describes as (ANTI-THEFT DEVICE:IMMOBILIZER) which to me would mean the actual immobiliser box that stores the info on your keys, if that's correct then it's not this as it has nothing to do with the remotes. "DOOR CONTROL RECEIVER ASSY DCR RELAY ' - I didn't think this car had one??? I can look a bit more into it but will need more info on the car, can you PM me your VIN?? The older Camrys have a CIR ( Computer Integration Relay) which stored the info on the remotes but as above I didn't think your car would have it.

For the noise on start up it might be the injectors. You should get that confirmed while still in warranty as they aren't cheap. For the clutch get the fluid in it checked. Do you have another HiLux to compare it too as it might be fine, might just be harder than what your used to??

I would go with what Trent said. I have had this on a Celica where the metal contacts needed to be cleaned and slightly bent back for them to work again.

At a rough guess I would think you would be looking at around $20k to $30k if you are getting someone else to do most the work. Really though how serious are you about it.. if you REAAAAALY want to do it and have a stupid amount of cash to do it then you are best off getting quotes from companies that can do the work, not from the internet.