Hiro

MCV20R implies the V6

You need to be more concerned with secure undercover carparks :P

For the Saturday night? No-one (unless someone wants to put their hand up), was just thinking that amongst 20-odd people some decent shots would come out of it :P Was thinking Carriageworks if they don't have a performance on that night. Carriageworks @ redfern? Did a drop there today lots of construction works going on there, it's a dirt and mud pit. Bugger, the whole lot or just near the entrance? Are you talkin about the entrance off Wilson? thenyup down the drive way all the way to the boom gate. Garden st entrance is cool tho. Yeah Wilson St, last time I was there though the boom gate was open and you could get down to past the pedestrian entrance, good shots there These are the ones I took at the Toymods photoshoot there a few months ago

Actually it's 13/7/4 (Blacks/Greens/Reds respectively). Also, that is the threshold number, you can accrue up to and including 12 points on your Blacks, but the 13th (and any further) point is when license suspension etc happens. The confusion comes around people thinking the numbers should be 12/6/3 to represent the number of points you can accrue but still continue to drive (another way to think about it is that you have to have at least 1 point REMAINING on your license to be able to drive).

Your question is a little hard to understand, do you mean it is revving 200rpm higher in 4/5/6th than it did previously? Has anything else changed in that time? (tyres, tyre pressures, engine/transmission service etc). Quite likely it is affecting 1st/2nd/3rd as well, just the ratios are short enough that the difference is minimal (200rpm makes a big difference in speed in 6th compared to 1st)

You say you have to stand on the brakes to make the car stop, but how is the actual pedal feel? Does it feel like you're stepping on a brick, or does it still feel normal just the car doesn't respond. A slight "hissing" noise is perfectly fine when you repeatedly pump the brakes, this is the air going IN to the brake booster (it is a vacuum booster remember, so normally it is a vacuum). If you turn the car off and pump the brake pedal you should hear the hiss as the pedal progressively gets firmer and firmer (this is the vacuum booster effect being depleted).

Couldn't resist... As an aside, spotted Pete on Old Windsor Rd (or was it Parramatta Rd? Wasn't paying that much attention :P) on the way out to CCAD on Sunday morning

And that is why you always leave the car in gear when you park...

For the Saturday night? No-one (unless someone wants to put their hand up), was just thinking that amongst 20-odd people some decent shots would come out of it :P Was thinking Carriageworks if they don't have a performance on that night. Carriageworks @ redfern? Did a drop there today lots of construction works going on there, it's a dirt and mud pit. Bugger, the whole lot or just near the entrance?

Current cruise route goes via Kangaroo Valley, not Macquarie Pass (unless you want to take that way home, it's not as much fun going down)...

For the Saturday night? No-one (unless someone wants to put their hand up), was just thinking that amongst 20-odd people some decent shots would come out of it :P Was thinking Carriageworks if they don't have a performance on that night.

Interesting that Toyota abandoned their old practice of scissor-gearing then....

Going to be a little late tonight (say 8-8:30), if you guys all bail make sure to leave me a note :P

Photo? Sounds like you're referring to the axle nut, which doesn't hold the rotor to the hub (it holds the axle, hub and wheel bearing together). Brake rotors usually come off by removing the caliper and then simply pulling the rotor outwards - if it is stuck then there are usually some tapped holes which you can screw a bolt in to that will "jack" the rotor away from the hub (handy if it is all rusty and seized)

Topics merged - no need to create another topic asking basically the same question...

I have seen T14Xs with all of the above engines (1G, 7M, 1JZ), although I'm not sure if any of them required firewall mods. You'd most likely need some kind of custom engine mounts too, nothing ever just "bolts in" to a chassis that never came with that engine series from factory - I've seen stuff on the internet say that the 22R ones fit the 1G but I've also heard people (whom I respect for their technical knowledge) say that you'll need different ones

??? Warrant "watch"? Warranty was never mentioned in this thread anyway (and would have run out considering it's a 2003 model).... Spambot Patrol on alert...

Options if it is still raining?

Dude you asked a question on a Saturday night and then complained Sunday morning when no-one answered....give it a little more time next time.

Is there a reason why you want Toyota ones? Unless you're really keen on replacing a broken/missing one (or returning the car to absolute mint original) then I'd just get any old set of hubcaps from Supercheap/Repco etc, or if you want to stay period then just get whatever Toyota ones you can from that era, don't have to be Camry.

Torsional strength is calculated off the second moment of area (which is based off the fourth-power of the diameter, rather than just squared like you would for area). Thus the centre section of a tube doesn't contribute anywhere near as much stiffness than the outer portion does for the same amount of area - ie a solid bar with a cross-sectional area of X and a diameter of Y will not be as stiff as a hollow tube of cross-sectional area X and diameter 2*Y - even though the area is the same the hollow tube has that area distributed at a greater diameter and thus is stiffer for the same weight. For example - A 19mm solid swaybar is 1.98 times stiffer than a 16mm solid swaybar, but is 1.4 times heavier. If you change the 19mm swaybar to hollow with a wall thickness of 15.95mm, it has the same stiffness as the solid 16mm swaybar but is 2.4 times lighter

Those maths only work if all the bars are solid.

Since Classic Celica day is on the Sunday I'll probably come down for this and crash somewhere for the night, that way we can suss out the cruises for the annual meet.

4AGEs have always had an extremely strong and active aftermarket community. Pity you can't put that 4A in a Sportivo though :P

Out of curiosity, what engine does it have? 4-stud on an Australian ST162 means it's the ST-spec with the 3SFE rather than the SX-spec 3SGE.