-JC-

I'm really looking forward to this comparo, after all I am in the market for a CAI. Almost 5000k and Im too used to the power already. Im curious though, when I mentioned that dynos had to be done same day, same engine temp etc etc, I need a chill pill, yet when Rollamods organises the exact comparison I was talking about (admittedly it was his idea in the first place, but thats not the point I'm making here), its . . . . wait for it . . . . . "the ultimate back to back cold air intake test". So are we all in agreeance that dyno comparisons need to be very strictly controlled, or can we just do it a few months later and rely on those results? Im confused.

Does a bear **** in the woods?

With or Without Skid Marks - lol :D :P :D :P :D Cheers :P With of course, gotta put smoke a show on for the crowd . . . . :P

Let me get this straight Danz, your suggesting that a baseline dyno now (today, tomorrow etc) will be comparable to a dyno in a few days/weeks time at the dyno day? Thats bull**** and you know it. As rollamods has mentioned previously, the ONLY way to replicate the conditions completely and have a TRULY accurate reading, is to do them on the same day, same dyno, same engine temp, same inlet temp, same this, same that, same undies (I prefer red ones, they go faster) etc etc etc. BTW your going to need an OBDII tool. Knowing as much as you do, you should already know all this . . . . . . Then again, we could always bin the dyno and compare MPH at the end of the strip. Anyone?

Cheers Danz, that makes perfect sense, when I put the monster intake pipe on the Ute we actually threw the MAF in the bin and tuned it via the MAP sensor, so that would be why I didn't have an issue. Cheers mate JC

This one has got me thinking. Why, if your looking for all out performance (which toyota obviously aren't) would you feed a 3" T/B with anything less than a 3" intake? I know when I had my VY SS ute it was basically "bigger is better" but I haven't had a great deal of experience with smaller engines, so I'm keen to find out why everyone would make intakes that are smaller in diameter than the T/B? I'm guessing the T/B's are all the same, I wouldn't think the cardigan boys at Toyota would spend money refining a 1.8l engine that produces 141kw already.

I wont be able to make this one guys, have a wedding the day before. Curious as to the comment above though, I was born and lived in the area (Far Northern NSW) for most of my life, and I have never had major traffic issues in Byron on a long weekend, excluding new years (Used to spend almost every weekend there actually, long weekend or not). I suppose I should be used to the negativity on this forum by now . . . . . .

Looks good mate, and its good to see that I'm not the only parranoid pole parker. Jebus, i don't reckon you could get closer to the left if you tried, love it!! JC :D didnt think that was the left...! Yeah, the other left. I knew what I meant . . . . . .lol.

Bear in mind too that AAMI actually underwrite Just Cars. Basically they are tight as hell, and if you want to modify the car more than seat covers, they just direct you to Just cars (who obviously charge a ****load more). I would bet my house that there are plenty of insurers who would have no issue with you putting the kit on it. Also, with Just Cars and the 3 mod thing mentioned above, when I was 24 and Insured a VY SS ute with them, they told me that ANY number of mods is ok, as long as you are prepared to pay the premium. JC

Spotted Buddha's beast . . . . . . In the carpark I park in every day. Mate, all we need now is another rolla owner, and its pole parks all round with no worries about the rest of those clowns opening a door onto them. JC

Probably similar to HPC coating? Reduces heat, increases performance etc.

I'm not trying to rain on anyones parade. But the fact that your mate is keen to have it done in a hurry is almost as dangerous as having a workshop that hasn't attempted this conversion before attempt it . . . . with his car as the guinea pig. As Rollamods said, 1 week will turn into 1 year, and the company wont want to know him when it ****s itself (if they even get it running). By all means, go hard, and it will be an awesome car, but I wouldn't be budgeting any less than about $10-$12k for this conversion.

Brake and clutch pedal slide on with a little encouragement. Foot rest needs 4 starter holes drilled in it, the screw the plate to the footrest. I'm doing the go pedal today, but apparently the actual pedal arm has to be removed to fit. Good luck with your instructions, mine are in japanese.

$131 Unless your pushing them for a deal on a new car, then they are free ;)

Considering a new 2ZZ is over $8k for just the motor. if it sounds too good to be true . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Both of those places arent worth the hassle mate, beleive me. We have already approached them. Gympie is half the price, and they basically allow you to control the whole day . . . . so yeah, worth the 1 hr 45 min drive. JC

Looks good mate, and its good to see that I'm not the only parranoid pole parker. Jebus, i don't reckon you could get closer to the left if you tried, love it!! JC

Cost of attending is $100 for the whole day, or $50 for half. This includes pizza and drinks on the day. Basically in the morning the pan is open and you can do what you like (2 cars max at a time), and in the arvo there are courses setup and times run etc etc. Unless you have a rear driver, its not really worth paying for the full day, its not like corollas are drift warriors. Sorry bout the pics guys, not as much open slather on the bandwidth here, working on it, give me a little while. Cheers JC

Hey Guys, Been a bit late getting around to posting this stuff, but I attended a "driver training" day at the Gympie (QLD) Roadcraft Driver training centre last weekend with the lovely ladies and gents from Coastcars. Not only was it the most fun I have ever had behind the wheel of a motor car, but I learnt a ****load about how my little beastie handles in the wet (and doesn't handle, lol). I was actually pretty surprised at how the little Sportivo went against some big dollar competition. Unfortunately I havent got a list of which car applies to each name on the time sheet, but the pics and times should give you an idea of how the stivo stacked up against the competition. There are a heap more pics coming, but you get the idea. . . . . . . . Motorkhana Results here ------ http://www.coastcars.net/phpBB2/viewtopic....ghlight=skidpan The +5 sec penalties apply to either leaving the track, or hitting the cones. These things happen almost every 2 months now, and its a great day out, if anyone is keen to come along to the next one, let me know and I can point you in the right direction. JC

So many keyboard warriors, so little time . . . . . . . . . . .

These units have been around for ages, they must have taken a while to perfect it. My old man is a long distance coach driver, and I remember him being tested on one of these things, that would have to have been at least 10 yrs ago when i was at school as I havent been on a bus trip with him driving since school (damn I feel old). I would imagine that unless it was at least AS accurate as the existing blow in bag style test, they wouldn't be using it. Another reason may be to cut costs and save waste on the thousands of little plastic tips they throw away after using for each test. JC

Im there

Just read the manual on this issue guys, it says that the 2Z will not exceed 7100rpm without warming up, doesnt talk about the lift issue, but JEBUS, 7100rpm when its cold? I guess thats why they put it in the manual eh . . . . . . .

Count me in. Got some shiny new plates to show off, no more mexican sportivo!!!!!

Im still trying to figure out why an auto is going to gain less than a manual? Obviously the auto box is going to sap more power than the manual, but gains should be proportional if the motor is the same no?