theDefiant1

Sweet - thanks for the info guys.

Any clue on dates?

Just wondering - you put a strut bar on the tower (on top), and a sway bar underneath on the bottom. Why not get a bloody strong sway bar and avoid cutting the tower plastic surround? I am aware of the fact that a sway bar loses its mechanical advantage by being low on the strut bar, but can it work?

Can almost see the fuel gauge going down at a similar rate, but in light of that speeeed, who cares!!!

Then i've been lied to all my driving life!!! ("Daddy, what does this button do?")

Unless i'm blind, no.

PM'd

Touche! You just gotta love those Aurions. I parked my Rolla outside the Canberran info centre and a bus load of (and not being racist here) Asian tourists pulled up and started inspecting my car. I felt very chuffed, and promptly activated the alarm (I was sitting on park bench a few meters away). After a few recovered from heart attacks, we all had a good laugh. Just felt like sharing that.

I just had a very quick look at the wiring diagrams that I have here, and my conclusion is that you're going to have to be more specific... My understanding (feel most free to correct me anyone), is that the VIP (vehicle intrusion protection) system works thusly: sensors are attached throughout the car - windows, door open, bonnet open etc. Then, just for fun, more wires come out that work to activate the horn, lights etc. Some, if not all of these sensors go through the ECU. Now, either the alarm is itself connected to the ECU, or the sensor wires bifurcate and go into the alarm. Some VIPS have their own ECU. Which then I tihnk begs the question: what type of alarm do you have? My cursory look (and damn i'm tired), shows a lot of wiring... and I never installed my own alarm. I guess what i'm saying is that I have the info, but there is a lot of it.

Yeah, me too...

Hereth begins my 161st post Digital dashies are fun (I have an Echo), and you are given the impression that the display is 100% accurate, but it isn't necessarily (Echo and Yaris owners have had a long and colourful history of having inaccurate digital speedos). If you want accuracy, it wont be found on any speedo unless you can confirm it with, I guess, the gold standard ("excuse me Mr officer, can you tell me how fast i was going - i want to know if my speedo is good"). blah blah blah. Trying not to sound too much like a Jaycar salesman, I know you can get DIY digital speedo readout kits from them that you can slap on your dash. Hope this rant helps. It's been a long day, and it is time to end it. Congrats on your purchase - I love those Aurions!

i get wat u mean but its i mean for the standard factory ecu. query answered. thanks annyways. wow rich kid driving a toyota but his bro driving bugatti veyron....(says sarcasticly) LOL... no hard feelings yall!! Rightyho, so to save our frustrations, what/which answer was the answer you wanted? To quote the Goons "it's all very confusing really"

Any ideas of complete costing on sending a single unit? Is the seller willing to be gracious for those of us in Whoop?

:( Not happy Jan. That's a pretty good price you're getting.

oooooh Duh. When i was installing the shift light, i played with the instrument cluster - follow the instructions, take it out and fiddle. I think the facade (three-piece sandwich) is removable...

If the pinout is identical between models it should work fine.

Aneone else notice that the hilux had to stop pulling the rex as a car went past the junction??? hahahaha. ha.

:D :P

Sorry 'bout the Balga comment. I was being... umm... rude. I don't think I would leave my car in that area, though apparently it's changing... even called Kensington now. Anywho... There's always a next time.

*shrugs* Look, if you still have trouble, all I can offer is my Echo Sportivo which you can use to act as an example of a working car that does not exist. I'm in Albury. Cheers

Hi Clement, I think in essence of this feature of the car is this: while cutting fuel isn't great (just letting the pistons cruise in neutral), it is far better than the alternative (*boom* + smoke). Rev limiters (electrical ones, not mechanical ones) work by rerouting distributor signals to a ground. Effectively this stops the sparkies igniting the fuel in the cylinders. BUT, fuel is still going through. This unburnt fuel gets sucked through the exhaust... Unburnt fuel in the exhaust can still ignite, in some cases in parts of the exhaust not designed for combustion (*boom* + smoke + flames out exhaust). Give me a fuel cut any day in that respect. If this 'feature' from Toyota annoys you, there are ways to convert it. You can buy auto kits which can act as rev limiters (check Jaycar). You attach it to pinouts in your ECU, set it as stated above with the distributor bypass, and you're there. There are inherent problems with rev imiters, but I wont go into them; look them up. That should hopefully answer your question in its entirety, with no car-bragging or personal attacks. In the end, as most things are, it is a matter of preference and opinion. Have fun at uni.

Maybe a photoshoot in Balga?

As always ever-cautious, also check insurance prices before buying a car. Given your choice in cars, I don't imagine that being too much of a concern, but I do remember insurance for my stivo being a third of the price of a tegra.

Some house-keeping duties: I hope you all enjoy your shift-lights; thank you for helping make this possible. We have invested in a very high quality product (I don't think anyone can argue on that point), and would like to thank Tony at Ecliptech for his generous offer, and excellent service. The fact that he printed out the workshop manual and provided it for everyone is testament that. A GB for shift-lights can be organised at any time in the future, as long as there are at least 5 people wanting them. Once again, thanks. (No, I'm not being paid to advertise - I give credit where it is due).

R32