LivingTheDream

Hi, why don't you enquire about a Diesel LPG conversion by Diesel Gas Australia? I've never used them, only heard about them and seen their products. It maybe cheaper to convert than to sell the current car and buy another one. Just an opinion, good luck.

Get it inspected by a mechanic, diagnose it correctly and replace the faulty component.

I've been told that on the 2012 onwards Kluger Altitude with the Factory Sat Nav (NOT Grande), the reverse camera appears in the small fuel economy screen, but it can be reprogrammed to appear on the larger Sat Nav screen????? Has anyone heard of this and hows it achieved? Is it a Toyota reprogram or re-wiring or what?? Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure if this has been covered, but I've finally got my Kluger Altitude Sat Nav to play Divx movies and also while the car is in motion. Yes I know what you're all going to say, it's dangerous to watch while driving, but it's for the kids in the front seat and for long trips. I had registered the unit a while ago, but out of frustration I gave up converting my movies to Divx, then finally last night I spent the time and effort & converted them. They play perfectly on full screen, but then noticed as soon as the footbrake/handbrake is released the screen goes blue. Well, I looked underneath and through my powers of luck, I found a wire scotch locked onto another wire. Looking like an after thought by Toyota, I decided to undo the lock and reattach the RED wire to an earth and voila, the movies play while driving. The footbrake/handbrake light works as normal. Now I can remain calm in Adelaide traffic which is the worst in the world with the dumbest drivers behind the wheel, by watching and listening to Rambo.

I bet the unions aren't taking any responsibility? No one to blame but the rising cost of labour and that goes straight back to the unions. I'm a mechanic and a Union rep once said to me "Do I have car insurance? Do I have house insurance? So why not be a union member and have job insurance?" I replied that if I did my job right I wouldn't need "Job Insurance". What a ****head, I've still got my job without union interference.

Same problem as the Kluger's. Toyota has a different fix/shaft for these apparently.

**** really?????? It doesn't matter whether it ran for 1 sec or 30secs without oil, the damage is done. And settling for the life to drop from 150k to 100k is NOT alright. Mate pay the excess and get the engine fixed. If in the near future the Lifters (hydraulic lash adjusters) stay noisy and need replacement, well theres an easy $1000 if not more, not to mention the Main & big end bearings, engine out, crank grind, timing chain, bearings etc etc, Christ $4000-$5000 easy. That's what you pay insurance for. Don't think of the money in your pocket now, think of the money spent in the near future and not to mention whether you trade it in or sell it privately, a good dealer and/or private buyer will pick issues with the engine.

Yeah I just saw the ad for it. Um not sure if I like it? The rear end looks like a Tarago tailgate, the front end looks closer to a Mazda 6 and it just looks "American". To say the least, I prefer my Kluger. I'm assuming the car is now being made in the US, so from past experience even with stringent quality control, the yanks can't build quality for ****! Unfortunately Australia missed out on producing it.

Well if you've got oil in the spark plug tubes, then that will certainly affect the running of the engine and ultimately misfiring/pinging. The oil will affect the rubber on the plug leads. I recommend you remove the leads & plugs (better to suck out oil in the tube before removing the plug), replace the rocker cover gasket and tube seals and possibly removing the tubes and resealing the threads. Put in new plugs and leads & re-adjust your timing to correct specs and see what happens. The oil in the tubes will cause the spark to track and ultimately misfire. See how you go.

Hi mate, Ive just come across this post and reading it tells me that the guys original problem was not the EGR but the plug leads all along. The "pinging" noise he had was the misfire and only running on 3 cyl's. Unfortunately to say, he should've spent the money on new leads, not waste time on EGR's. I've never come across this problem in all my years.

GSU40 is FWD and GSU45 is AWD. Cars are identical other than the rear diff, tailshaft to rear and transfer. Suspension is exactly the same. The more I drive the car the more I notice how much of an improvement just the new rear sway bar has made, I may look into a bigger front now to just to make it that little more stiffer. Oh and mine is AWD

I received my sway bar today, fitted it and what a difference it makes. I've set it on the hard setting, which is equivalent to 20mm and the rear end sits flat through the corners. It doesn't affect the ride quality whatsoever. May look at a bigger front bar now. Anyone interested in one let me know.

We used to remove the heads and clean the combustion chambers and top of pistons.

This model celica had a problem with carbon build up on top of the piston which obviously caused increased compression and therefore pinging if timing was too far advanced.

Hi, I am selling a set of front Koni Adjustable coil overs to suit ACA33R and GSA33R Rav4's. If anyone is interested I'm looking about $150 for the pair and its about $25 to freight. Message me if interested.

Hi everyone, I'm getting a rear sway bar made and should receive it in the next day or so to suit my 2012 Kluger Altitude. It's an 18mm Adjustable Heavy duty bar and should help improve the handling of these barges. If anyone is interested in one let me know and I can source more. Cost wise approx. $350 depending on freight to your location.

Hi, prior to my current Kluger, I had a 2008 Rav4 V6 and my water pump began leaking and the tensioner pulley also failed. Lucky enough I had extended warranty on mine and this all happened 1 month before the end of the warranty. When I questioned the guys as to the length and cost of the exercise, they told me that they didn't have to remove the engine, but drop a crossmember out of the way in order to gain access. The cost in parts and labour had it been a normal retail job, would've equaled the same as yours approx. $1800. There are cheaper water pumps out there and workshops that charge less $/hour, it's just a matter of who you are comfortable touching your car and who you trust. Some big name Franchises use poor quality parts and charge a fortune in Labour as they have franchise fees etc etc.

Thanks for the feed back was2068 about your intermediate shaft, as for mine after I stuffed around with it, the noise in mine went away and has not come back and its been approx. 16,000kms, not 1 week. Best you change dealerships if they can't fix a simple issue.

No problems at all miyoot. Glad you didn't listen to the bull**** about needing special tools to lock the injector pump etc. The best time I ever achieved while working for Toyota in replacing timing belts on HZJ80's and their pulleys etc was 17mins. Great fun because when given a job like that, for the remaining 1 hour or so as allocated by the repair guide to do the job, I could sit on my ***** hahahaha.

31x10.5x15 is a perfect size for that. Easy to buy and a wide variety of brands. Just fitted a set of General Grabbers AT2 to a mates Triton and he loves them. Bridgestone' have a 674 Mud Terrain which is fantastic or the 697 All Terrain. They're getting about 60k out of those 697's with rotation every 5,000kms.

Could be uni's are buggered, could be diff backlash.

If your front shocks are leaking that means they are buggered and not performing. Leaving it a year could result in an accident. As for the bushes, the lower control arm bushes do fail and will cause premature tyre wear. Outer edge wear could be alignment or could be lack of rotation or even under inflation. The mechanic knows best and I suggest you listen to him. As for prices, depending on whether he does both lower control arms bushes on each arm, or just the rear bush on the arms and whether he's included a wheel alignment in the price.

I am assuming that when you turn the locking hubs on the front axles from free to lock, the "knob" turns freely? If its does yet the axles don't disengage, then your problem lays in the locking mechanism. When the locking assembly is removed via the 6? bolts and you visually inspect it, there is a ring held together by a rather large awkward spring. If that assembly has been pulled apart or sprung apart in the past and not put together correctly, then the axles will either lock or not lock, even when the knob is turned either way. These locking hubs can be purchased and aren't too expensive. It saves having to muck around with the old units. The front axles slip through another section of the hub and are held in by either a circlip or bolt, depending on the model. Make sure all looks right and maybe take photos and post.

We had power failures in Adelaide a couple of weeks ago due to storms and all the servos on the way home were closed due to no power. I drove 15kms while my trip computer told me I had 0kms to go. It was a bit worrying since I had to drive 10kms through the hills. Anyway I made it, survived the ordeal and have lived to tell my precious story.