Tony Prodigy

Sounds to me like you have an issue in your valve train. You mentioned that you purchased it from an auction. I suspect it's had a hard life and may have missed an oil change or two and it possibly ran low on oil pressure and did some irreversible damage. I'd take it to a qualified technician and have them inspect the timing chain and valve train. It may be fixable.

Hello and welcome mate. We hope you enjoy your stay.

Not 100% sure but you could be right. They could be for the antenna if there isn't a physical antenna fixed to the driver's side A pillar where they normally are. I would be more inclined to think that it is an antenna and not demist related. See if you can follow the connector back. It may intersect the coaxial cable if it is in fact the antenna.

Hey Ron and welcome aboard mate. We're seeing a steady increase in international visitors and it's good to see. You guys didn't get the Hiace van over there in the U.S. did you ? I'm not sure, but it looks great and I hope it serves you well. What are your plans with it ?

It's hard to say from where we're standing, but I would have the ECU scanned with a proper scanner to see what error codes are stored that could possibly shed some light on what's happening. Until then it's all a guessing game as these modern cars are all computer driven with sensors everywhere.

Are you saying that the fan will work when the temp sensor is disconnected ? Have you tested the temp sensor ? It's possibly faulty. The relay is not the issue. Relays rarely fail. Did the engine overheat previously or perhaps it's just not getting to temperature to engage the fan. If the engine has been overheating, I would replace the temp sensor then have someone plug a diagnostic tool into the OBII port and view error codes. The ECU could also be responsible.

Ok, now that makes sense. I had a quick look and I believe this is what I found. It's possible it may fit both petrol and diesel variants. This is what I found on Ebay but it's local to us here in Australia. You can take the part number down and see if your local stockists have it or contact K&N directly where you are. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334328039694?hash=item4dd781090e:g:qxgAAOSwQAdiCKTA P/N KNE-2444

Don't waste your money. It makes zero difference compared to the original filter.

Not as bad as some, but still pretty bad. I suspect this car was serviced as per the stupid log book service interval of 15k plus. Long service intervals introduce complacency and the tendency to go over what is already a high enough and way overdue oil service. You can tell by the darkness in there. That PCV would've been choked with sludge. It can be recovered with a decent clean or simply replace it. Glad to hear it's better now. I'd be interested to see what colour your oil is after 5k. Can you report back at a later stage with that ?

A mate of mine has a white one and his tail lights are clear/silvery. It's probably a late 40 series. It is quite strange though that China hasn't made a rice version of tail lights for that model Aurion because they are quite common for most other makes.

Invest in a trolley jack and leave the scissor jack in the boot for your roadside emergencies. If you're working from home, I would definitely recommend a trolley jack and axle stands. Very cheap these days. Get either a 2T or 3T jack for ease of use. You will thank yourself.

Hi Anna, I feel your frustration and unfortunately most aftermarket parts available today sourced from Repco, Supercheap etc are mostly made in China. These retailers have their own in house branding which is even worse and despite having a 12 month warranty, that helps them avoid warranty because the parts usually fail after warranty has expired and then you have to waste a lot of time fighting them to get a resolution. I would avoid the house brands as they are inferior most of the time. They are cheap for a reason. I try to source genuine Toyota parts anywhere I can find the best deals and there are plenty to choose from apart from the local dealers, which are ludicrously expensive in most cases. I cross search through Ebay, Amazon, then places like Amayama or Partsouq for Genuine Toyota parts. You also need to be aware of counterfeit parts, especially on Amazon and to a lesser degree Ebay. I've had plenty of good hunts on both. Amayama and Partsouq are always 100% Genuine parts. If you can find a decent local mechanic or a friend of a friend who is a competent mechanic, you could source the parts yourself and just pay his labour. The problem with going to a mechanic is that they need to source the parts for you so they can warranty the work. If you supply the parts, then you won't get warranty on those parts. You would have to instruct them to source genuine parts and then ask them where they get their Genuine Parts from. Because time is money, they need to have parts delivered in a speedy manner, so usually the local dealerships would be the only option here. But for this, you pay dearly unless the mechanic has an arrangement with them and can offer competitive pricing. Have your mechanic quote you one with Genuine parts and one for aftermarket. Ask about the quality of the aftermarket parts and tell him you want OEM quality and not generic rubbish from China. OEM parts are basically parts that are made to a manufacturers standard. It either meets or exceeds the manufacturer's standard. An example of OEM brands are like Bendix brake components, Ryco for filters, Gates for drive belts etc. These parts are as good as original and the next best option after Genuine branded components. I can't recommend a mechanic as I live in Sydney, but hopefully others here can probably help with that one. I wish you all he best and I hope you get it sorted soon. Take care 🙂

I haven't seen any in the aftermarket form, but the 40 series Sportivo SX6 has clear type silvery looking tail lights, if that's what you're after. Not sure which model year though. It could be a later face lift edition.

Looks like the aftermarket ones, although have a deep recess, they aren't a complete "tub" style due to the cut outs in the centre for what I think is for additional seats ?? Here's the Toyota Genuine version, no cut outs, "Tub" style in the sense it's not as deep as the aftermarket. But it does appear to have a containment band around the perimeter of sorts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291682179370?fits=Model%3AFortuner|Make%3AToyota&epid=20026941583&hash=item43e99cd92a:g:lMYAAOSwezVWu-Md&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0J6t8mZeinIl%2B2f%2Bf3AAkpa0F09%2F0U%2Bcwu9vFgJPcU0qE8109w%2BTCND1caHv6%2BuxzCFAO%2F1wDVH%2FqncQWq6PsZ6neB6qfJaFBWpIAtihZH3K8Oh5NkzbX2BRSsxAJ8aMQUgxiS%2BFK0jocURwAwtLPNJ2joMr5hoCsWO1OPKLddsATPvWmBQfgK9XQWlxH1JKaIHCIJv3nVyNA%2Bp5EAEVVwr1ufaTeOPMAfDBAAUTBHmF%2FlbsabWeV4yBj3B1qRHegioiXu4t7hsL0%2FJoxcBf54Y%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7LateyhYw

Why don't you just share your fix here instead ?

That's a good option to help keep the scissor from topping out and becoming less stable. But not bricks as Herb mentioned. A nice bit of 4 x 4 solid timber is preferable. I keep several odd pieces of timber for events like this.

I'd also get the mechanic to do a cooling system pressure test too.

I'm not familiar with your particular engine, but I presume that after the cooling system has been opened for whatever reason, you need to bleed the air out. I recently did the coolant flush on my Aurion 2GR-FE and it MUST be bled correctly otherwise it will overheat. The 2GR is also a stubborn engine to bleed. It took me around 20 minutes of runtime until it was fully bled. Search up on youtube or google for a cooling system bleeding procedure and you should be ok unless someone here can chime in. These modern cars are not like they used to be in the older days where one simply drains and fills then the system self bleeds. You should've done a bit of research before attempting the work just so you know what to expect. You'll be fine. Let us know how it goes.

Hey Gents, Sorry for my absence over the last several months. It has been a very busy time for me juggling various things in my home life. I am glad to report that I am on the home straight now and will try to post up on a more regular basis. Anyways, As fast as the previous year went, I was shocked to realise that I almost missed the service of our beloved Aurion. When you're so busy, a month flashes by like a day and one day I had a flash in my head saying to go check the ODO. As I don't drive the car, I have no idea. So when I discovered that 12 months had passed and nearly 9K later, I had to act. I caught it just in time. The last oil change was at ODO reading 150,244 less current reading gives me 9,561. I got out the usual kit consisting of Nulon 5W-30 from my oil stash, a fresh Genuine Toyota oil Filter, Air Filter (Aftermarket) and necessary tools. Service kit This service consisted of not only the oil service but the replacement of both tensioner and idler pullies. I had also noticed the idler pullies, both the tensioner and idler pullies had become worse despite my last effort to regrease them. During the year, I had purchased a nice war chest of new parts through Amayama and that also included new Genuine Toyota Tensioner assembly and Idler pulley among other items. Toyota doesn't supply the Tensioner Pulley separately, so you have no choice but to buy the whole assembly. Thankfully Amayama's pricing structure is way better than that of the local Stealer, so it made economic sense to buy through them. With that in mind, I had previously purchased an aftermarket set of idler pullies, both the tensioner and idler pullies in the Febest brand. I also had a spare Genuine Toyota Idler pulley which I purchased long before, so now I had two Toyota Idler Pullies, one aftermarket, one Genuine Toyota Tensioner pulley (courtesy of purchasing the whole assembly) and one aftermarket tensioner pulley. I decided to use one Genuine pulley for the Idler and The Febest Tensioner pulley for this service. I will leave the Toyota Tensioner Assy and the other Genuine Idler pulley for it's next major service, which should hopefully be another 150K or so. The pullies I replaced were still the factory items and have done well to last 159K with only a light squealing noise evident on cold start up. After the engine warmed up, the noise went away, but that's no excuse to ignore the warning signs. The serpentine belt was also shot. Lucky I checked it thoroughly during this time too. It was ready to go at any time. I had a new belt soaking in 303 Aerospace for several years. After purchasing it, I sprayed and soaked it, then placed it in a plastic bag and put it away in my parts container. Hopefully this would have a long term effect in preserving it better. Who knows.. These are the pair of Aftermarket Pullies. I only used the one on the right for now. I took the car for a short drive to warm it up and get a general feel for the car by checking brake operation and for any other noises. Car ran like clockwork to be totally honest minus the pulley squeak. Smooth as always. Got back and proceeded to drain the oil and let it drain to the last drop. I removed oil filter cartridge, degreased it internally, installed new filter, primed it with oil and screwed it back on. Hand tight then a light nip up with the special tool. Sump plug back on, it was time to fill it with fresh Nulon goodness. The old oil didn't look too bad for nearly 10K either. Then got to work on the pullies. Usual job of jacking the car up and the placement of safety stands, removing the engine side access cover on the driver's side wheel well and tensioner tool at the ready. Removed the serpentine belt and both pullies. The Tensioner pulley has a reverse thread to the upper Idler so be careful if you plan on doing this yourself. If you are doing it by yourself, you'll be better off releasing the tension from the underside so you can fit the locking pin at the same time, other otherwise if you had help, you could lever it from the top using the extender bar from the serpentine belt remover kit. I found it easy enough just with the ratchet wrench provided. I placed an Allen Key in the hole to lock the tensioner. Installed new pulleys and serpentine belt then released the tensioner and ensured belt was located perfectly in the ribs. New Dayco Serpentine Belt Split and Micro Cracking on the Original Belt. Febest Tensioner Pulley (LEFT) and Original Old Tensioner Pulley (RIGHT) Comparison of Aftermarket and Genuine Idler Pullies This is a shot of the New and Improved Genuine Toyota Pulley on the left. The right is the old Original part. Air filter got replaced and I also used compressed air to blow out the filter box of any loose debris. Gave the engine bay a once over too. It's still pretty clean under there but I will give it a nice detail later down the track when time permits. For now, the oil service and pullies are done and now I'm thinking it will be time to do a pan drain of the transmission and flush the brake fluid. I'll post back when I do. 20240104_113102.mp4 Cold start, the engine is running sweetly now. No more pulley squeaks. Happy days. Thanks for reading Regards Tony

It's not too bad a deal Ash, but buying from an overseas seller is still cheaper. I recently purchased 2 more cases from the U.S. with shipping and tax for just on $255 AUD. The catch here is that you need to find a listing that has favourable shipping costs. Some U.S. sellers have shipping double their counterpart, which also makes me question the validity of some shipping quotes. Sometimes you get high item price but low shipping, other times it's low item price and high shipping. I try to find one in between to make it more economically viable, which in my case, I did luckily enough. LSI come in at $177 for one case, after discount with free local shipping. Two cases would be $354.

Not good for an engine to only have 80K on it. It sounds to me like a big end knock. That engine is done. It may have had a very bad service history, sludge build up, loss of oil pressure or blocked oil pick up starving the bearings of oil. You'll know for sure when it's torn down. I hope you could share those images if you ever replace the engine.

I suspect fuel delivery issue. Either contaminated fuel or the filter is blocked, low fuel pressure or fuel pump is on the way out. A good mechanic would check fuel pressure at the fuel rail to the fuel injectors. If it eventually starts and runs, and NO error codes, then electrically it seems to be ok there. You have a non elec issue I think.

That's why I said hand tighten. The cannister has an O-Ring so mechanic tightening isn't really necessary. You can do it if it makes you feel better, but I have tried that and 25nm is practically hand tightening torque anyway. The O.P's cannister is 17.5Nm so even better case to hand tighten. I don't think a torque wrench can even read that low anyway right ?

7Nm difference on the oil filter isn't going to cause any issue. Hand tighten it and that's it. Just make sure your hands aren't oily so you get a decent purchase on the filter. You don't have to be anal with oil filter and sump plug tightening torques. You're over thinking this. I'd be more concerned with head bolts and those kind of items which need to be of a specific torque.

Sounds about right. Oil filters are usually just hand tightened anyway and 25Nm would be about that. Sump plugs don't need to be tightened to buggery either. Tighten it with a socket and nip it up a bit more and you're good. You don't want to over tighten the sump bolt for fear of stripping the threads, then you'll be in trouble.