SuperDave

I think mine was $350 from memory, while the Toyota one was about $600. I did the work myself, but a mechanic could have it knocked over in about 30 minutes, 1 hour tops, so about $90/hr for a mechanic. No need for new spark plugs.

Based on the information given I'd guess an alternator. Battery won't whine; but the hard start from not enough electricity in theb attery will becaused by the alternator not providing enough power to the battery. Laggy acceleration could be caused by not enough spark getting to the plugs. Does it whine while free revving? If so pop the bonnet and listen around the engine bay and have a sniff of the alernator to see if it smells like burning electricity. If you need a new one just get a genuine Denso one, same thing as the Toyota one but about 40% cheaper. Can get generic ones for even less.

And you are running Stage 2 cams... *facepalm* So how long do you expect this motor to hold out? I strongly suggest get a piggyback or standalone ECU and tune her up. As long as the AFRs are checked then it shouldn't matter about what runs the engine. Aftermarket ECU will obviously get the gains out of the cams as the power in the 2zz is in the timing, not the fueling. Best thing about the cams is there is no need to stay in lift on the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. The extra torque at 6000rpm keeps it moving. I'd still highly recommend valves and springs with the stage 2 cams as the stock springs just fall short of binding at full lift; any valve float and they will bind.

I gave Daniboy a hand to do the swap on his rolla. He did the knock sensor side of things, so will have to check with him what he did. I've been thinking about running the older sensor also, I've got it, just need to wire it in.

Depends on what you want out of your car? Soemthing nice a comfy for the street, go the Tein (or Koni struts and King springs). Something stiffer for the track, go the Cusco. Or if you want a different brand the spring rates for those are still apllicable for the direction you want to head in.

Don't get too caught up with drivetrain loss and so on. The only numbers that count are the increases that occur on the same dyno as you apply mods. Don't compare peak numbers betwen dynos, look at the gains (or losses) other people got for ideas. Even then different conditions influence the numbers.

Word is these leak over time, so best avoided for the 0.001% gain they give.

Welcome. Any mods done already, or plans for the future?

Don't use it in the box, it will make the problem worse. As for the adjustment, does it crunch (or impossible to change gears) going up gears (redline in 1st to 2nd)? If so then the clutch needs adjustment, if not then the sychros are already gone and need replacing. You can help them out by giving the throttle a small blip to better match the engine/gear speeds.

The bottle of coolant costs bugger all at Toyota, just out new stuff in. I hope you have big ice cream containers, the coolant system holds somewhere around 6-7L from memory.

Just be careful as the Piper stage 2 cams run the stock springs to their limit and can still float.

If the JDM Runx is the 2zz model, then it is mechanically identical to the Sportivo.

Would the usual aftermarket cam (piper) break in of a 3000rpm idle be enough for those cams? I know lift isn't engaged, but would there be enough forces going through the lobe and slipper follower to wear it in? Got 20k on the piper cams (with no shortage of lift use) and they too have no signs of damage, just another curiosity question.

Doesn't really say much in the description. But in short; Current bid: 160,000 yen (no bids as $2200 is pretty exxy for a manifold and used turbo) Auction end: 4:36pm on the 12/10/11 2000km old

The real deal, a working turbo manifold for the Sportivo. http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k140073576

When I removed my cams with 100k on them they looked brand new still. Any pics, curious to see the damage (not doubting you).

I've got a slightly dodgy one here where the lift signal doesn't work. Seems fine otherwise, just need to make a 'nolat lift controller' to control lift and it might work.

I've got camber bolts off of Silvabullit before, could flick him a PM to see if he still deals/knows people.

Stock coil packs are pretty good, spend the money on something else.

Vortex generators require access to a wind tunnel or CFD software to develop correctly. A Vortex itself is very weak and if not created correctly will induce more drag. When done correctly they can reduce drag and/or help other aerodynamic devices work better. The Toyota GT-One was the first car designed around vortex generators if you wanted to see a practical example. But to save myself from typing out the same thing as the famous 'Scarbs' refer to the following http://www.f1technical.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5090&sid=cb67ad37d41ff7c57be51f3c18d0250d#p5090

The images above are just renders someone did up. Since the FRS is likely to be released with a 1.6L turbo or 2L NA, I don't see Toyota aiming for a large displacement engine with the whole green thing. 3 or 3.5L NA would be my guess. ISF fills Supra role currently.

I'm using a Bride FX rail on a Sparco Evo 3 seat. This link from Bride lists what fits what seat rail. http://www.bride-jp.com/products_tekigou.html レカロ = Recaro スパルコ = Sparco At a guess those two seats you list are bottom mount. The Recaro lists the mounting width at 405mm which Bride make a few rail models in that mounting width http://www.bride-jp.com/products_rail.html

Are you sure it's force.distance? Tractive effort is measured as a force, typically Newtons in SI units, and pounds in imperial units.

Do you remember where? Sorry I can help with stores for the stuff you require. All the Thai people I know aren't car people so that doesn't help either :(