SuperDave

The work around is to dial in a high idle on the PFC. But it sounds like a O2 sensor feedback issue to me. Problem is if you turn the feedback off it will idle funny while cold, but be fine when hot, and vise-versa. I'm not sure if it is a sign of a dying sensor as the Stock ECU doesn't have a problem with it.

Which is always caused by human inputs.

I'd much rather all cars that drive themselves. Best way to prevent a crash is not to have a human in control, with all their emotions, habits, et cetera; stupid meat bags. Bascially I'm agreeing with Hiro.

Nice looking car, but most importantly, nice looking internals When will I be seeing it at Queensland Raceway or Lakeside Park?

Because aero that creates downforce requires CFD modelling or wind tunnel time, it's best to aim for a flat undertray, from bunper to bumper, so that the air flow doesn't slow down as much. That in itself will reduce the lift created by the natural shape of a car. For ground effects to work the car needs to be lower than legal ground clearance, so not really an avenue worth pursuing anyway. Just make sure the material you select has a lower flash point them what ever you are encasing. Otherwise you can add some cooling vents, but be aware that these opening will ruin the flow a little bit. I would strongly recommend leaving the rear of the engine bay open so that the air that has been through the radiator and the engine bay has somewhere to go. Also worth looking into is blocking off some of the radiator openings. Most cars come over cooled as they need to work in some pretty warm places. A visit to Bunnings and you can make something similar to that wind deflector thing in your thread for about $30.

Sounded like lift was working, possibly a very smooth transition. Being down by 0.2-0.3s is probably a sign that it wasn't tuned to your car (as mentioned), so might have improved if tuned. Sucks to hear it won't idle now. If you have access to a datalogit or the Apexi software you can save a copy of the map and reinitialize it, reload the map, and relearn the idle to see if that improves things; usually does. Will it idle with a high idle, like around 1500 rpm?

A drag stip can help. You mention you have tried the PFC at some events, what time/speed did you get? If you are sitting around 15-15.5 s and 90 mph, then lift is working. Or on the 1/8 mile around 10 s and 70 mph.

Have you looked at the map to determine where the lift point is set? What speeds are you getting down the strip? That will give you a good sign if lift is engaging because if it isn't it'll be pretty slow.

Stock rim is 6" wide, and +45 offset, so you are going 12.5mm wider, about 6.25mm each side of the wheel. The extra 3mm of offset will result in the rim sitting 3.25mm further out than stock, and 9.25mm further in. All theory as the dimensions are rarely exactly what they say, but close enough.

Surely one of the better paint/panel shops dealing with the likes of DuPont/House of Kolor could match the colour from the actual paint. Or is it also a case of you don't have the colour as it is anyway?

Correct.

What are you trying to achieve?

Ultimately the reason for selecting the base vehicle is what you plan to do with it the majority of the time. An Aurion/Camry/Corolla will be comfortable enough for daily driving, not draw attention to yourself from the police or P platers who think they are gods gift to driving. The times when we either want to have a quick squirt or send it through some bends with some pace then we can add some mods to help in that department; it's part of the fun. If someone needs an S13/14/15, R32/33/34, S2000, MX5, etc, to do what they mainly do with their car then I guess they chose the right car for them; just like the Aurion/Camry/Corolla is the right car for someone else. The world would be a boring place if all the cars were the same ;)

Sportivo interior

Installs no differently to the TRD or Injen CAI.

I wouldn't recommend engine braking as it increases the likelyhood of over revving. The engine compression, at the track, doesn't slow the car down with any noticable effect over the brakes themselves.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/10160-xxe12x-part-numbers-updated-050109/

Buy direct from PPE without the fancy coating and it is about $550USD, and about $100 shipping (can't remember exactly). http://www.ppeengineering.com/products/toyota/celica/2zzgegts.php

Common problem for hard driven sportivos for that fin to crack the weld and tear the fin. It's the ****ty spot welds and thin wall exhaust. Easiest fix is to repalce the manifold with the PPE extractor. It is pretty much the same length is the 4-2-1 stock setup (so to where the fin ends). The cat will need to be shifted rearwards about 15cm.

yeah i saw that the other day. do the TRDs normally go for that price? yes

He copped a penalty in the following races, but should have also copped a fine worth the panel/mechanical damage to the cars he hit.

Even better is RB30 block and RB26 head.

Unfortunately you won't hear much back for two reasons. The car isn't a commonly modified car and requires some knowledge of what works and what doesn't work, instead of just ordering from a catalogue to make a 'custom' car like an EVO/WRX/Skyline. Secondly a workshop will judge you over the phone and assume that someone modifying a Corolla is a kid and a time waster, unfortunate, but true. Usually best to turn up and talk in person; as they say, money talks, bull**** walks. In summary; CAI - Injen or CES Exhaust - 2.5" mandrel bent system from the cat. Engine internals - Look at the monkeywrenchracing website. But probably not what your after at the moment. Suspension - Order from someone like Greenline or Nengun and follow a guide in the guide section, or take them to a workshop to be fitted. There is a sticky in the suspension section listing part numbers. Brakes - Just change the front pads to something that suits what you want to do with the car. 0-500*C for mountains, 0-800*C for track work. No need for the extended push rod, engine mounts, heavy duty clutch (only really need for forced induction).

They can be rebuilt too, but depends on what is damaged. Mine would have cost the same as a new one in parts to rebuild due to what had burnt out.

I'm unaware of comapanies that offer it. I've heard rumours Shannons used to, but wasn't worth the premiums. There is nothing to worry about at the track, keep clear of other cars, keep within your talent and you're hard pressed to do damage; short of a mechanical fault which are pretty rare.