SuperDave

yes

The next step is whatever you think needs improvement/fixing, don't let anyone dictate how you mod your car ;)

You don't need the caliper itself. If you use the calpier bracket from a celica or a sportivo you can use your current caliper. You will need to use sportivo/celica pads though from memory. Test fitted my bracket to DHC09's car years ago out of curiosity. Otherwise you can design a dog bone and have it machined to space your current setup out by 20mm.

The front's on the Konis are an insert, so you need to cut the front struts and insert the koni strut into it. Sames koni making mounts to suit a corolla/celica. That said, the front struts are the same as the same era celica if you can find them.

I'm sure a wreckers would sell you the fronts for $50 if you want to hack up a stock set.

More fasts = more air through the radiator anyway :P Make sure to keep an eye on the oil temps while driving on the street, I find mine over cools and I have to block it off with a plastic cover that I remove for the track. But mine is 19 row and only on a 1.8 NA. Holy ****, Corzza still drops by!

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/10160-xxe12x-part-numbers-updated-050109/ For the front go with anything specced to 800*C; for the read go with 500*C. A higher μ(mu) figure is higher friction. Not all pads have details as they don't usually give the information out for some unknown reason (probably because they don't want people knowing their product is crap). When dealing with track work, don't buy anything you don't know the details of.

The reason why they wouldn't be using the word 'coilovers' is because the terminology comes from a coil spring being over a strut. Comes from the days when leaf springs were being replaced by 'coil springs over dampeners'. Everyone just calls adjustable suspension coilvers for ease though. Much like sport bucket seats in all cars these days. It stems from the old days when the front seats were a single bench like the backseats are. So a single seat is called a bucket seat, even though they are far from a race seat.

Only dropped the 1 valve, and yes the guide was replaced as it was cracked.

Best to do a polish/clay/cut/whatever and wax at the same time. If time is limited do it panel by panel, not step by step.

I'd recommend not using the allen head bolts in that picture. Swap them out for proper hex heads and grade 8.8+ to be sure. I never use allen heads with any decent torque on them.

Good to see you're still kicking around tats! Congrats on the time, no doubt we'll hear more in 12 months time! :P

Yearly update. Snapped a valve. Bent the valve and cracked the valve guide. Finished rebuilding it the other day and now it has flat faced valves and stiffer springs. The exhaust valve seats were pitted which was giving low 180PSI readings, and after grinding the seats it is back up to 200-205PSI. 180PSI is still well within the Toyota Sepcs too. MWR claim the flat faced valves add about 0.3:1 to the compression ratio, which should be about 5PSI by my dodgy maths.

Added a bit more on to show the increased spring rate is the better option. As for where to buy the spring. You can still buy it from pedders, but you just need to know what spring you want. King springs, eibach, tein, cusco, et cetera also do cheap springs. But you need to know what spring rate you want (usually expressed in lb/inch), the inside diameter and the free length.

First mistake was asking Pedders for adivce. Regarding point 2: The shorter spring will need to be slightly stiffer than the old spring to ensure you don't hit the bump stops. The difference won't be that great and you'd hardly notice. Keep in mind that a stiffer spring however won't sag as much under the car's weight. For example if you currently have a 5kg/mm spring, the car weighs 1200kg (assume 300kg per corner for ease, but it wont be 50/50 in the real world), you have 200mm of spring compression until it binds and you want to go 20mm shorter. Your current spring will compress: 300kg / 5kg/mm = 60mm You want it to sit 20mm lower, you can either go to a 170mm long spring at 6kg/mm or keep the 5kg/mm spring and pick a 180mm long spring. I'd go to the heavier spring myself because when you compress the suspension with the same spring rate you'll have 20mm less stroke to absorb the shock; while the heavier spring maybe shorter but because it is a higher spring rate it will be able to absorb more shock before binding/hittign the bump stops. Maths below; 300/5=60mm compression 200-60=140mm remaining travel (assuming the spring binds and doesn't hit the bump stops). 180-60=120mm remaining travel 300/6=50mm compression 170-50=120mm remaining travel To compress each spring option completly (assuming no coils and wire thickness for ease) from the static height on the car: 200mm 5kg/mm = 1000kg 180mm 5kg/mm = 900kg 170mm 6kg/mm = 1020kg This is all very simplistic, but were only dealing with a road car wanting to sit 20mm lower, not a race car.

Vacuum assit issue?

Looks and sounds like a piper stage 2 power curve. The mid range torque/power is awesome though isn't it ;) Who did the tune? 6700 is very high, mine is at 6200rpm done by Matt Spry. The change over point is irrelevant, the gains are what matters. Don't get too fixated on the peak figure as you spend very little time there. The power tapers off because the duration on the intake cam is actually reduced with the piper stage 2 cams over stock (282 vs 292). There is much more valve lift though.

Each seat listed in that ad cost the same as my seat rail :o

I wouldn't have thought that the cable would stretch from resting your hand ont he shifter, I know the shift detents can wear from doing this though. Stretched cables aren't common, but the shifter cable rattle is a known issue. Changing to new cables solves the problem.

That is very cheap for a pair, I paid more than that for a single seat.

KU36 and AD08 are not semi slicks. I use Dunlop 03G because they heat cycle the best, as do Bridgestone RE55S but you need a bit of money to afford the Bridgestones. Yokohama/Advan heat cycle very poorly, but if you wear them out in one or two sessions they are fine. Go for a medium or hard compound, don't go with soft. Go down to a 15" on the semi slicks ;) Hot tip; go with a cheap tyre first, like the Toyo, as you will prematurely wear it out and damage it by over driving it. Plus you need to work out what tyre pressure you need to run to get even tyre wear. 2 PSI out and you can have over or under inflated wear patterns. And you need to learn what pressures you need on the day before going out. Tyre tuning is a whole different ball game in terms of mods. Front and rear strut bars, as well as a TRD rear anti-roll bar and you're done, don't do the front as it kills mid corner speed a touch. If you don't have coilovers or springs and struts upgraded, then don't waste your money with semi's yet as you won't have the control over the tyre to keep the contact patch at it's greatest.

To do the head gasket on the 2zz requires the removal of all the accessories and the chain cover to come off. There is one bolt that goes through the chain guide into the head. Poor design by Toyota (or good if you get to charge someone to take the head off). So that is where all the labour costs come into it. As for price, I've no idea if that is fair or not. There is about 4 hours to pull it apart. If they do it properly and give the head a light machine, the valvetrain needs to be stripped too, about another hour. What other signs do you have of a dodgy head gasket? Milky oil?

For future reference if anyone searches about the oil. Shockproof is good oil, just don't use it in a gearbox with synchronisers, ie, anything other than a race box. Plenty of boxes have been stuffed because of it, and I don't care what the Redline PR machine says. Reality > marketing. The M90 etc is probably fine, but never used it, I use Motul.

Injen CAI > * http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=288&products_id=691 (assuming your 99 Celica is the ZZT231 model and not the ST202)