SuperDave

Bride sell rails for the e12 chassis, they don't cost all that much from memory (about $3-400 delivered). It's obviously more expensive than the usual solution of bolting the side mounts to the floor (about $100). But not sure what would keep an automotive engineer happy in regards to reinforcement on the floor. Discuss it with an engineer first.

3kW is a bit considering people spend $400 on a CAI for a similar gain...

If you have a 2zz-ge get the GTS version. As for brands, the Injen has the bigger diameter, so I would recommend that one. Your heart is set on the SRI, so I won't bother trying to talk you out of it.

Some sports struts (koni/pedders/monroe) and soem springs (Eibach/Kings) will be suitable. No need to go coilovers unless you really want to use the word coilover when talking about what's been doen to the car. If you need camber adjustment you can buy adjustable top mounts or camber bolts. You'll have 90% of what a coilover can do, for a lot less money.

I don't see what the attraction is of Royal Purple. It's not going to do a better job than a $60 jug of oil. But, up to the customer what they want to spend their money on.

My numbers match up with Bill's pretty much (minus turbo though). Once above 3000rpm, the pressure should remain pretty much the same.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/10160-xxe12x-part-numbers-updated-050109/

If they will be stored longer than 2 years, just sell them on for cheap and buy new tyres when needed. After 2 years they will be useless as the rubber will harden and be worse than new cheap chinese tyres. I store tyres out of sunlight, where is doesn't get hot, and away from electrical motors. I lay them on their sides so they don't get flat spots. I keep the air in them, but other people let the air out, depends on what you want to do. I'd be lucky to have tyres setting for longer than 3 months though.

Did you do stage 2 cam upgrade yourself... or did you have to take it professionals, if so how much was it? Cheers. Did it myself. The camshafts themselves are usually pretty close to each other, the adjusting is done more for so for the valves and rockers. But you still need to check the clearances after changing the camshafts. The hardest part is changing the VVT gear.

The head will need to be stripped, decked, cleaned, put back together. The tolerances checked, adjusted, checked adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked, adjusted, checked and so on. That will consume about 8 hours and about $400 in parts. Head removal and installation probably another 12 hours or so. So about $2k to pay someone to build the head. As for the oil pump gears mentioend above by xoom, there are no cheap options here, only TODA (not toga) do the gears, and I would trust them over some no name brand (there is a thread on the subject). So need to ask yourself, do you need to be able to rev to 9500rpm? If so then you'll also need the rods and pistons added to the list. What about the stgae 2 cams with stock valve train? There is only an issue with prolonged high rpm exposure. The stock valves can snap at the retainer, but I don't think that is linked directly to the Piper cams, but rather the poor design of the stock Toyota valves themselves. But as I said it's only really an issue with A LOT of lift, 10 times a day isn't a lot. The cams also need to have VVT tuning to get the power out of them. So make sure you have something that can adjust that. If you do get the valves, make sure it's the flat faced valves as they increase the comrpession ratio slightly. This is important as you drop dynamic compression with the extra overlap with the Piper cams. you won't recover it all unless you replace the pistons, but something is better than nothing.

If it is coming from the crank pulley it'll be the front seal. In which case the timing chain cover will need to come off. Probably replace the timing chain cover seal at the same time. Parts will be pretty cheap, like $20. But labour would probably be about $600. Depends on how long it takes the mechanic to remove all the accessories/engine mount and put them back on again.

You can pay that about much locally for a 2.5" mandrel bent system in stainless steel. Australian jobs and all that... It's also not worth $1 as it is only 2.25". I assume you want it for a sportivo, the stock system is already 2.25".

bump

Even if you just jack it up and put a brick under the wheel, it will probably sit high enough to slide under. The old drive up the gutter trick mentioned by 95celica is a good ghetto way of getting underneath if you lack a big jack. For future reference I'd recommend a block of wood on top of that style jack, the 4 knobs tend to put excess pressure on the jack point and cause the damage you have shown. When I'm working under the car I can need 2-3 jacks at times depending on what I'm trying to line up. I use that jack you have for lighter things like suspension and the engine. To get more height I have a wood sleeper cut to the shape of the jack. It fits between the front and rear wheels and gains me an extra 50mm. Plus it is fairly wide so is pretty stable also. Hope that helps you out of the bind.

Breaker bar + socket + mallet?

CES Racing do a bolt on exhaust system. Not quite bolt on as the original cat needs to be transfered over and welded on. They might do systems with new cats, but you'd have to ask them. Just drop it off at your local exhaust shop and get a 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust put on. Only takes a day and will cost less.

No. The extarctors/minifold* will fit, but the bends are all different after that. *however caution is need for the manifold as post-2003 heads have an extra hole on the exhaust side for some BS emissions rubbish.

I had a stubborn one and ended up freeing it with two levers and two people hitting it at the same time. As Jason said, it can be hard to get a good angle.

Spotted a red sportivo, plates ###sbt from memory

Just to clarify what Prozak is saying. The hand brake on some cars is via the rear caliper, as in, the cable pushes the pads onto the rotor. Other cars have a built in brake drum (like the old style brakes before discs). On these the handbrake is independent to the caliper. Were the pads you replaced flat rectangular shaped, or semi circular? Just trying to narrow down the source of the issue.

Not sure to be honest. Ihaven't used Bendix pads before to confirm the pad number. Hopefully someone who has can chime in. Or send a pm to the site sponsor to confirm the pad number for the Australian delivered Runx (Sportivo). I would guess it is the correct number, but not confident as mentioned before I haven't used them before.

How do you know it's running rich? Do you have an aftermarket wideband sensor on it? Or strapped it to a dyno to get the AFRs?

yes, it has been done before.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/10160-xxe12x-part-numbers-updated-050109/

After speaking with some Honda racers/trackers, they tell me the higher springs rates are because they can get away with it using proper doiuble wishbone suspension design. The mcpherson strut setup needs lower spring rates in comparison. But that said, 18kg/mm spring rates are still high!