SuperDave

I bought one, and it was junk. It would only unlock the doors to a Moke :(

I just hope some of the photos I took for Pete actually turned out. Must have been bad if he has spent so long in the studio fixing up the lighting

Belt tensioner.

Just be aware that in QLD you'll need an Engineer to sign off on the seat modification AND the seat belt modification.

You'll remove the buckle from the old seat and bolt it to the rail of the new seat. The belt itself is attached to the b-pillar.

Could be a list of possible issues, you need to narrow down what is causing it. The low rpm rattle is likely the belt tensioner. Is it rattling just off of idle? Does the high rpm noise change dependent on engine speed are car speed?

Stock OEM rotors are fine.

Maybe we could encourage the winners to join up here?

Sparco, Bride, Cobra, Recaro, et al.

Do an oil analysis on your engine oil after the events. You'll probably find you are pouring money away changing it before and after.

You have been very busy Mr X. Thank you for the organising, and anyone else that has been helping out behind the scenes.

BanGn?

Sportivo or Celica? I'll assume Celica since you posted int he Celica section. The cooling duct, I assume, is there to provide fresh air to the ECU box as the ECU, in Toyota's infinite wisdom placing it in the engine bay, it gets nice hot air from the engine bay. The cooling duct makes no difference and we have never run it on the Celica at here. It is probably there as 1 of the test mules got a hot ECU once, so they made sure it wouldn't be a problem in mass production.

But I'm not bringing the truck....

I did some cornice work in summer, and now with winter upon us, I have small cracks between the cornice and the ceiling. So being the bearer of bad news, I'd say restumping will cause some seperation. It's not all doom and gloom though; if you run a new bead of plaster along the cracks, and sand them back, add a coat of paint, they should be fine again. Just more effort though :( I have a room with twisted cornice from when they were put up in the 70s, and is going to give me grief tying into the build-in wardrobe I added. I could recornice the whole room, but then I'm in for some pain removing all the cornice cement. I could replace the ceiling as well, but then I have to stuff around with the insulation again.

The zze chassis is identical to the one assembled in Japan.

And they don't make power on the 2zz.

Plenum == intake manifold I'd highlight it in the pic, but in a rush this morning.

It's running bad becuase you have a vacuum leak. That big hose going to the front needs to be blocked off at the CAI. Head to supercheap/autobarn/et cetera for a cap. Just think, it's letting in unfiltered air, so fix that immediately. Also, that blue cylindrical thing also needs to be blocked off. You can either block it off where it connects to the plenum and remove the extra, or fold it back on itself and zip tie it. I'm surprised it's driveable.

Yes, you can change the RON fuel you put in. The 91 octane fuel is usually considered lower quality by many people, whether it actually is or isn't I wouldn't know. The best fuel to use is what is recommended in the manual in the glovebox.

Dead o2 sensor? Does the exhaust smell really fuelly, or does your oil? Need to be careful of overfueling as too much fuel can wash the thin film of oil off of the bores. Which CAI did you install? If the airflow to the MAFS isn't good it can read wrong and give all sorts of issues such as overfueling.

Unplug the battery, give it 30 minutes (probably not even required that long), reconnect the battery and it's reset. The auto windows will also reset; so to make them auto again pull the lever up (with the window closed) and hold for a few seconds until you hear a soft click, then it's fixed.

TODA are very reputable, think of them as Cosworth of the East.Only downside is the $450 price tag. http://www.toda-racing.co.jp/jp/product/other/2zz-oilpump.html