campbeam

Errors, what errors. 🤞 Just prototyping going through a few iterations, very quickly. Noticed the header icons moving around, so quite pleased that they are back in the known position. Not that much into website design but I do appreciate the KISS principle. Just as feedback, I regularly use the search function and get 0 results even though I know the thread/posts exist. I also use Google to get more targeted results of the threads

Just a suggestion that you contact Toyota Australia and confirm whether your vehicle is covered by the 5 year powertrain warranty before starting any repairs.

I am terrible when it comes to buying cars and make lots of mistakes. It certainly helps if you can be indifferent and prepared to walk away from a bad deal/negotiation. A cheap buy can end up being more expensive in the long term with ongoing repairs. I think that used car warranties are not worth anything so more likely to buy from a private seller than a dealer. I am more concerned about a clear title and accident claims so will pay for a Car History Report and do a REVS check.

MAF sensor wires certainly need to be cleaned. Suggest that you look at cleaning the throttle body, checking the air filter and the spark plugs. All help to have the engine idling and running nicely. I learnt the hard way that the condition of the spark plugs impacts the life of the ignition coils. Ended up having to replace one of the ignition coils when it failed then replacing the spark plugs. I reckon that if I had replaced the spark plugs much sooner then the ignition coil may not have failed. When the girlfriend complained recently about the engine not running the best, I replaced those spark plugs with long life iridiums; Denso IK16TT. Also be wary of fake parts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-X-DENSO-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-IK16TT-for-Toyota-Corolla-ZZE122R-1ZZFE-BKR5EIX-11/132603888741?epid=847195733&hash=item1edfcec465:g:ZSQAAOSw8nFemiSm

Fully agree with what MATT36415 has posted. I also consider a scenario of where if I buy a vehicle today, what can I reasonably expect to sell it for in the next few weeks. If you are not prepared to accept the potential loss then do not buy. I just did a quick search on Gumtree Melbourne Region Toyota Aurion Sportivo. I think that this ad by a willing/emergency negotiable seller might be worth considering. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/dandenong/cars-vans-utes/2008-toyota-aurion-sportivo-zr6-6-sp-auto-sequential-4d-sedan/1243774840 Suggest that you also have a look on FaceBook MarketPlace.

Just checked the girlfriend's Yaris and there is air blowing out of the oil filler cap. There is not too much airflow unlike my previous Honda Prelude which showered me in oil when I was trying to top it up. Lesson learnt. Now I don't do any oil top up with the engine running.

I thought that I would do a follow up after an experience this afternoon. I got a bit impatient waiting for a break in traffic while stopped at a T intersection. I had previously let an opportunity pass thinking that I would get a better opportunity soon. When an opportunity did finally come, I accelerated a bit harder than usual. Accelerator was probably at mid point and most certainly not to the floor. Anyway I got a bit of axle tramp. Last time that happened was well before this upgrade and I did have the accelerator flat to the floor and had to back off to get traction. Certainly thinking that there is more torque in the lower rev band which I do prefer. Possibly related or at least contributing, I have noticed that the transmission moves up into higher gears a bit quicker and stays in high gear longer.

I just knew from my experience 5 years ago that a 10mm socket with a uni-joint adapter would not have worked because not enough clearance. Anyway, I have just tested it [very quickly] with the car up on ramps and no go. However a shallow 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive wobble extension bar does work to loosen that pesky bolt. I was going to replace it with a M6 hex head bolt but decided to leave it as is.

Those were the days with the rise of the touring car on the track and muscle cars on the public roads. Potentially anyone could take a stock car and with enough money for modifications turn it into a race ready car. Remember that garage mechanic named ***** Johnson leading the Big Race, the rock, the public support then back next year to win. If you want to take a trip down memory lane and see how much things have changed have a look at this video. Certainly a bygone era. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sOQd1vT794s

It is a right not a privilege and I want it now and forever. Our good mate John is not holding back when he calls space saver tyres a fraud. You need a full size spare if you do any highway driving. I also check the tyre pressure of the spare tyre before I go on a road trip. Better to be prepared rather than sorry with a spare with only 20 psi that you have not checked for years. If you cannot handle the weight, then pay to have roadside assistance. If you are lucky, someone may stop to assist. https://autoexpert.com.au/posts/top-six-things-new-car-buyers-dont-check-but-should

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPa3UhulSBQ Your comment reminded me of the adage : Race on Sunday, Sell on Monday Gone are the days when manufacturers had to make 500 vehicles with homologated engines available to the public to qualify for use in Bathurst. Peter Williamson certainly waved the flag for Toyota. Still remember how competitive his celica was across skyline only being overpowered in conrod straight by the big V8s. Taking the axe to the boot so they could refuel is a classic memory plus dash cam and his commentary while driving during the race.

Appreciate the pics. A bygone era with all that working space in the engine bays. Repco have got the naming rights back for 2021. Always will be the Bathurst 1000 whoever the main sponsor is. Maybe SuperCheap can put that saved sponsorship money back into some great deals to help pry open my wallet in 2021.

As I mentioned before, go read your owner's manual. You will find a number of recommended tyre pressures for different driving conditions. Suggest you select a higher tyre pressure that suits your driving conditions. Attached document indicates that we need more negative camber to offset the wear on the outer edge of the tyre. Toyota Aurion Wheel Alignment Data Specifications.docx

I will check the girlfriend's Yaris tomorrow and give a definite answer. Suggest that you have a read of the following link that may give you some hints of what to check. https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/62340/stalls+after+engine+heats+to+operating+temp I have recently replaced the spark plugs. Previously, I have replaced the MAF sensor and an ignition coil. The crankshaft position sensor also got replaced after a check engine light had come on. Removed and cleaned the existing sensor and the CEL went out. Still ended up replacing the sensor.

Attached is a Whiteline camber bolt fitting guide. Following diagram shows the placement. I have also added 17mm front camber bolts to my eBay WatchList. Already have the 15mm camber bolts to fit the Aurion rear. Camber Bolts Fitting Guide.pdf

5 years ago that was the known way. I had a very frustrating hour trying to remove that bolt. Ended up using a small ring spanner from a Trade Tools combination set. This took me most of a Saturday afternoon. Fast forward and I did the transmission service within an hour just by being able to remove that bolt with an open ended spanner held vertically. No wonder that others have replaced that pan bolt with a hex head bolt. Just found the bolts that I bought so maybe next time when I have the car up on the ramps

I have found that 36-38 psi is ideal for my Aurion. Certainly helps to make the tyre sidewalls a bit firmer so improves steering responsiveness. I just use the local garages and 40 psi on their gauge or maybe 41 psi. When I do remember [and then not forget] tyre pressures are usually down to 37-38 psi. Recently I bought a tyre pressure gauge and did check the tyre pressures at home. You were previously in a thread about the wheel alignment specifications. You must not have had the time to read/scan all of the posts. Camber adjustment bolts may be enough otherwise there is a kit to replace a bushing in the lower control arm.

Investigating that pesky bolt was part of the preparation. Very fortunate that you had that particular tool. Using the open ended spanner vertically takes more time and a few attempts but still worth it compared to loosening transmission mount bolts and jacking up the transmission for working room. First time around you would have wanted the extra clearance to be more under the vehicle and see what you are doing which is very understandable. I am sure that you will find a quicker way of doing it next time.

Incorrect paranoid thinking. If you want faster tyre wear, try lower tyre pressures. I have always used 36 psi for at least 20 years. Been doing that for the last 5 years with my Aurion. I have also increased the tyre pressures up to 38 psi then 40 psi. At the same time I have been checking and there is no noticeable tyre wear in the centre due to over-inflation. Suggest that you look at your owners manual for the recommended tyre pressures for highway speed with 4 occupants. As for the 40 psi, it is more laziness on my part because I only check tyre pressures monthly. Same as yourself, inner edges have little wear but the outer is wearing more. Certainly interested in getting this sorted out before fitting the next set of tyres.

It is all in the preparation then everything should flow smoothly. Certainly helps to have the right tool to deal with that 1 pan bolt. When I am doing the fluid level check, it is on a fairly level driveway. If the car is jacked up with the passenger wheel removed, I then lower the vehicle until it is fairly level laterally. Essentially the same as if the vehicle was sitting on all 4 wheels. Interesting point because the vehicle is not level longitudinally [on the ground] as it would be on a workshop hoist. Possibly another explanation for adding that extra 200ml after doing the fluid level adjustment. I am finally very happy with how well my transmission is performing so like yourself moving my focus to other maintenance.

It means that you need to have another look at the video. It is a comparative figure. My front Dunlop tyres have 240 for treadwear and rear Pirelli tyres have 420 for treadwear. 420= 1.75 times 240. Therefore, the Pirelli tyre should last 75% longer than the Dunlop in the same controlled conditions. Then, we have real world conditions with so many variable of road surface, temperature, speed etc.

Have a look at this YouTube video then go have a look at the sidewall of your tyres. Unfortunately, most tyre manufacturer’s websites do not include the treadwear rating for their different tyres plus other specification e.g. depth of tread etc. Can’t have facts getting in the way of marketing’s subjective statements especially when comparing tyres. Guess you have to ask specific questions to get specific answers.

I also checked the Michelin website for their Latest Promotion which was $100 cashback in June/July. You may be interested to read this review article https://www.carlist.my/news/review-michelin-primacy-4--trying-to-make-sense-of-an-unbelievable-claim-65767/65767/ You may like this YouTube video.

I do not have a definite answer but my guess is that is most likely acting as a radio antenna.

Following YouTube video shows how to determine the manufacture date from a 4 digit code on the tyre's sidewall. I am regularly searching touring/highway tyres. Manufacturers are releasing updated versions or new models. Please note that the Michelin Pilot Sport being a sports performance tyre is only available in larger diameter, lower profile sizes. However, I do have the latest generation of Michelin Primacy 4 on a shortlist because of its advertised wet braking performance and available in 216/60/16 size.