campbeam

I prefer to over-maintain or overservice my Aurion to avoid having to pay for any major work. Sold my Honda Prelude rather than replace the timing belt which would have involved removing the engine. Actually replacing the rear spark plugs is not so bad after you have done it the first time. More time consuming to remove the wiper motor etc [allow a few hours] so you can gain access and working room to replace both the spark plugs and coils. Replacing the alternator is also a joyous occasion. Also allow a few extra hours to remove the radiator fans etc for access and working room. Excellent reasons why you buy quality replacement parts. On the Yaris, alternator replacement looks like a simple bolt off bolt on job, easily done within 15 minutes. So far, my absolute worst maintenance/repair experience has been replacing the rear VVTi oil line which has a rubber hose mid-section on the earlier 40 series Aurions. I reckon that it took me more than a year to "recover" from that traumatic experience to even consider doing it again. Just as well, I love my Aurion and my standby project Aurion already has the full metal oil line.

I am sure that Aurion X2 is referring to the o-ring for the transmission filter/strainer. As for the drain stick, you could be referring to the internal plastic straw/tube for the fluid level. If so, I am sure that there is no o-ring because you are using the 6mm hex key to unscrew it and then re-tighten it [do no over-torquing it, please].

Expect the same as this following YouTube video showing ATF change after 60,000 miles / 96000 kms. I got similar end results [after doing my last transmission pan drain]. My ATF looked red, not black when it was draining. However, when doing a comparison with new fluid, it came up looking dark.

Following YouTube video from the 10:20 mark shows the wear on the valve body and why you should change the ATF every 80,000 kms. Presumably the presenter means a full flush/replacement of the ATF. Buying a new valve body would have been more $$$. So much easier to regularly service the transmission to avoid this sort of repair.

Absolute nightmare. That tensioner access panel is located underneath the rear VVTi oil line. Just accessing the retaining bolt and clip on the middle of that oil line was frustratingly time consuming using an offset ring spanner. Possibly you may be able to access that panel from underneath. Apart from fully removing the engine, other possibility would be to try and rotate the engine forward for better access to that panel. Following YouTube video shows the tensioner and guides for the timing chain. @DJKOR did post the following " For reference, the primary timing belt tensioner is of a ratchet type with a non-return mechanism and utilises both spring and oil pressure to maintain tension on the chain at all times. On visual inspection, you should easily be able to see whether this is failing. " I particularly noted the reference to oil pressure so another reason why the 2GR-FE engine needs to be have regular oil changes using quality branded oils.

Apart from a preferred 5 year maximum storage period, it is the ongoing developments or improvements to the specifications. In the Warranty & Service Book for my Oct.2006 Aurion, I got lucky and spotted it for the 90K or 72 month maintenance schedule. Normal is Inspect; Severe is Replace.

Following link contains a video and a list of Toyota vehicles [USA based] with either a timing belt or timing chain. Generally expect Toyota engines from 2007 on to have timing chains. Still pays to specifically research that particular engine model.to confirm timing and whether non-interference. http://yourcarangel.com/2012/06/toyota-timing-belt-and-chain-list/ http://yourcarangel.com/2014/07/interference-engines-complete-list/

Always doing online researching. I came across an article by a transmission shop supposedly about Aurion timing chain problems. It seemed to be mismatching timing belt for timing chain or a more generic article attempting to be specific. After a bit more searching, most problems with the timing chain are most likely due to the tensioner being worn and not maintaining the correct tension. A post in this Forum thread shows where to visually inspect the timing chain tensioner.

I was having another look at Wikpedia. Looks like the Final Drive Ratio is different. If so, 50 Series could be that little bit more fuel efficient. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_U_transmission#U660E Also looking at a website that listed technical issues and repair guidelines for the U660E transmission. " all abovementioned problems with the U660 unit are common for very old or quite worn-out automatics. A high percentage of cars equipped with U660 serve before covering standard 200 thousand kilometers (in many cases even longer) without any repairs under the condition of timely ATF change and filter replacement. " https://go4trans.com/transmission/u660e/

I doubt if there is any urgent need to be changing the ATF at this stage. Different matter if you have been street/track racing or towing where the ATF is likely to get hotter than normal operating temperatures. HEAT is what shortens the life of ATF so it then needs to be changed. Check the owners manual where I am sure that it says in severe driving conditions to change the ATF at 70K. Recently I have been reading about transmissions being sealed to reduce oxidation thus extending lifespan of ATF. Another one of my conspiracy theories bits the dust. Like yourself, gearshifts are barely noticeable. So far, I have avoided the temptation to go tinkering and check the ATF level. It is when you are more aware of the gearshifts [without looking at the tachometer] and feel that the gearshifts are not as smooth as before that there will be benefits from changing the ATF If you do get the 20 Litres [quite attractive price], hope you have got a good storage place. https://www.blauparts.com/blog/motor-oil-expiration-shelf-life.html Thank you for the laugh. You must know my bargain hunting and hoarding tendencies which I am trying to reform. Only [hardware] change to the transmission that I have read about so far has been an improved/upgraded valve body.

I had a good read of Tony’s reply. Interesting that the earlier 40 series Aurions have a lower ground clearance of 105mm vs 145mm for the later 50 series. Certainly explains why I have thought that my car was low enough and already have enough scape marks underneath from [foolishly] parking with front wheels resting against raised concrete edging at a local tavern. No experience in lowering vehicles but I am mindful of keeping the vehicle road legal and not affecting the insurance cover. In QLD, minimum ground clearance is 100mm [125mm is approx.. height of a soft drink can]. 5 things you should know before lowering your car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mkMKCCtjM2U Best to talk with a suspension specialist shop about options and costs. https://prestigeandperformance.com.au/lowering-your-car/ Can I suggest that the best upgrade for your vehicle is a decent set of tyres suitable for your driving style.

I also use my fingertips on the steering wheel and the shaft of the gear shifter to check for vibrations and to confirm the perceived smoothness of the engine. Also more hearing tyre noise rather than engine noise when I have the window down slightly when driving. The other kind of sensitivity comes more into play when throwing the car around some tight hairpin bends. My Aurion is also driving and quieter after a recent road trip. Currently using 5W40 full synthetic engine oil but next oil change will most likely be 5W30 full synthetic. A hot wet summer is forecast so maybe a 10W40 oil could be used instead.

I would start by looking at eBay as an introductory search of what is available in the market. From the gathered product information, then do some specific Google searches.

That reminded me of something else. Red hatchback was approaching the roundabout on a service road in the opposite direction and I slowed down to see whether he would give way. Ended up going around this tight roundabout really fast and NO body roll whatsoever. Quite impressive considering the speed involved. It must have been a Golf GTI [debadged] with rock solid suspension. Definite cop magnet and boganmobile slayer. I think that I will stay with a comfortable suspension and ride suitable for highway cruising.

We are both up early. Daylight saving has just started in NSW. My brakes got a good workout on a recent road trip. Certainly a few times where I was pushing my limits in overtaking vehicles towing then being on the brakes rather than just cruising. Now back to being highly responsible and driving smoothly and keeping the engine revs mostly below 2000rpm. Still having lots of fun driving my Aurion. Had a laugh the other day being overtaken by a Commodore making lots of exhaust noise; sort of the mechanical version of big talk, little results.

Have a look at your owners manual. Similar to the Aurion which has a 70 litre tank, I expect the fuel warning light comes on when there is 15 litres remaining in reserve in the tank. Furthermore, the fuel pump is cooled by the fuel in the tank so better to refuel well before the fuel warning light comes on. Accordingly, I refuel before the fuel gauge is indicating a quarter of tank remaining.

Looks like you will now be updating your research on the best/recommended method for bedding in the new brake pads and rotors. These days, I am driving very defensively so I usually have a bigger gap to the vehicle in front of me. I am not driving in peak hour bumper to bumper traffic, so try to drive as much as possible without using the brakes, more using what I call roadcraft to anticipate traffic flow, so take the foot off the accelerator rather than have to brake. Payoff is that I have less wear and tear on my brakes so brake pads and rotors last longer. Also they are in better condition for that emergency braking or for braking at higher speeds. I have recently changed the brake fluid and also got this item on my eBay watchlist if ever the brake hoses need to be replaced. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AURION-Presara-GSV40-3-5L-2006-2011-brake-upgrade-SAFEBRAKE-Performance/170807523724

Instead of doing a power steering flush, I use a plastic pump bottle e.g. used hand wash bottle to empty the power steering fluid reservoir then refill the reservoir. Repeat say every few weeks/months until the fluid looks clean. My Aurion has now got 221K in the odometer and still have yet to fit the struts that I bought in June/July. After a recent road trip, struts seem to be better but I did upgrade the rear sway bar. If you do a search on the Forum, you will find recent posts of which brake pads are being used. I have been using Bendix Ultimate brake pads. Others have been using and recommending Remsa brake pads so I have them on my eBay watchlist. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Remsa-Ultra-Ceramic-Rear-Brake-Pads-1285-02UC-for-Camry-Aurion-Avalon/254531108722

Attached wiring diagram is not for your specific vehicle but hopefully useful enough to track down the correct wires. 2007_Camry_Wiring_Diagram.pdf Aurion_Towbar_Fitting_Instructions.pdf.PdfCompressor-894150.pdf

I certainly hope that the transmission fluid has been changed very regularly. You will most likely find in your owners manual that the vehicle is being operated in severe conditions [towing] so the transmission fluid should be changed at least every 70,000 kms[?]. In the AWD system there is a separate rear differential. This should also be changed regularly. Apparently the dry fill capacity of the transmission is 8.8 litres. I am guessing but with a pan drop and transmission filter, only about 1/3rd of the ATF has been changed. Another change of ATF should hopefully improve the overall condition of the ATF in the transmission. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product-selector#/recommendations

Years ago, I bought a carton of oil filter cartridges from a USA seller. Finally got around to checking those remaining ones and they checked out to be genuine. Part number was printed onto the element material and oil seal plastic packaging was printed with the Installation Procedure. I also had a non-genuine one. In comparison, no part number printed onto the filter element material and also no printing on the oil seal plastic packet.

I usually look on eBay. It is where I got the gas struts for the bonnet of my vehicle. Best to check which fittings are on your existing gas struts and then buy matching ones to ensure easy fitting. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Set-of-2-Gas-Struts-for-Toyota-Celica-T230-2000-2005-Rear-Left-and-Right-Coupe/271588773308?fits=Model%3ACelica|Make%3AToyota&hash=item3f3bf3cdbc:g:U5UAAOSwRGhcQsXz&frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/A-Premium-2xRear-Tailgate-Boot-Gas-Struts-for-Toyota-Celica-T230-Model-1999-2006/222665124194?fits=Model%3ACelica|Make%3AToyota&hash=item33d7e02962:g:Yk0AAOSwjZZe8qry&frcectupt=true

I can confirm that Sparesbox is very good to deal with and they were able to supply the rear struts. Initially my order for rear struts was placed with Automotive Superstore in late June 2020. After 2 weeks, my order had not arrived. Subsequent check of recent online reviews indicated orders were being accepted, goods not available and refunds issued after much delay. Due to being unable to contact them by phone or receive reply to my follow up emails etc, I ended up cancelling the order via PayPal and eventually got a refund. I suspect that at that time, they were having staffing and supply issues due to impacts of COVID-19. This 1st hand experience certainly proved that it is worth paying extra to a dependable supplier. Highly unlikely that I will ever place an order with Automotive Superstore until I have a memory lapse. Just checked recent Google reviews. Highly recommend that you do the same before placing an order; Caveat Emptor - Buyer Beware.

With COVID-19 etc, I had forgotten all about this Takate airbag recall. I do remember previous posts and then checking a website to confirm my vehicle was not affected. Girlfriend's Yaris has been fixed under this recall so not on the radar. I should get my sons who have recently bought cars to also check the website to confirm their vehicles are also not affected. In the meantime, it is the usual buyer beware protocol. Best to check that the airbag recall has been performed on the vehicle before getting in for a test drive. It could be a factor in whether you buy that vehicle and have the inconvenience of getting the airbag recall done or move on and select a vehicle with the airbag recall already done. Something else to consider is that certain vehicles have had to go back and have the airbag recall done a 2nd time so it always pays to check and re-check.

Definitely a colossal liability and Takata is no longer in existence. This Wikipedia link gives a summarised history. I did not know that they had quality control issues with their Mexican subsidiary. Plenty of lessons there when you expand operations and have to manage and up skill a workforce in a different culture let alone different environmental conditions. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takata_Corporation Instead of a fine, i am more thinking of sending out vehicle defect notices and not being able to register or transfer registration of vehicles unless or until the airbag has been replaced. Maybe the Government should also request insurers to consider not providing or renewing cover for those affected vehicles not repaired.