campbeam

Front tyres were previously "as new" with last wheel alignment done in February this year. Toe in/out measurement had changed significantly. No definite explanation except I should have gone back and had the wheel alignment checked prior to the road trip. Huge difference with this last wheel alignment and felt really good when I drove away. Interesting that they had replaced the wheel alignment machine. No need to buy any tyres. I also have a set of mags with new Continentals on hand so I will fit them before the next wheel alignment.

This has been a recent learning for me. Before my selection criteria was more for the higher oil specification of API SN and the ILSAC GF-5 so given a choice between oils, I would prefer the ILSAC GF-5. Anyway, I have just bought 2 lots this afternoon and will most likely be going back for more this weekend. Just received the tax refund so might as well spend some more $$$ now and gift some other oil containers [previous specials] to my boys.

In the Comments section for that URL for Super Cheap Auto : "Don't be put off by the API SL rating, it's because it exceeds the phosphorous (anti wear additive) levels for the SM and SN spec. "

This is the latest special from SuperCheap Auto. 50% discount and Limit of 2 per Customer. Ends 06/09/2020. Quite tempted to get this special. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/castrol-castrol-edge-engine-oil-5w-30-5-litre/299206.html?cgid=catalogue-onsale&j=4543211&sfmc_sub=25368615&sub=205970513_SCA01_CRP&l=333_HTML&u=94349690&mid=6010680&jb=136&utm_source=email-subscriber&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=au-sca-2021-wk09-cat-ag

I made a mental note of a previous post in another thread about Toyota dealerships buying their oil in bulk i.e. 44 gallon drums. This makes economic sense with a one size fits all approach. Not sure if this is still a current practice especially with newer engines having more specific oil specifications. Getting back on track with this thread. From the information provided, Chris is most likely doing 2 oil changes per year with the next one due in April 2021 and then October. Also, he is driving less than 5K between oil changes plus cold winter mornings some as low as 0 C degrees. Looks like 5W-30 would be the preference for the winter months.

Just done approx. 200km in varying driving conditions including urban, highway and some pre-peak hour and achieved 9.75L per 100 kms. Still optimal results despite my lead foot and getting somewhat closer to realistic weekly or fortnightly fuel economy figures.

I think what I am feeling is the increased engine torque and the transmission smoothly dropping down a gear or 2 for that extra launch.

I read the start of your post [before seeing the attached picture] and immediately thought that you were misinterpreting the temperature range chart. My apologies; nothing wrong with your interpretation. At least I pulled out my owner's manual for the 2006 Aurion. Underneath the chart, It includes the following recommendation: "If you use SAE 10W-30 or a higher viscosity engine oil in extremely low temperatures, the engine may become difficult to start, so SAE 5W-30 engine oil is recommended." It looks like you are not DIY so the hip pocket nerve is in play to avoid unnecessary oil changes. In your case, get your $$$ worth of the current oil before changing oil. Oil change interval is usually based upon both time and distance rather than engine running hours. 1000 kms of driving in peak hour with lots of stop start motoring is very different to same distance of urban off peak driving or highway driving. Always plenty of debate about when to change oil. As a rule of thumb, when you check the oil level on the dipstick if the oil is so dark and discoloured that you cannot easily see the metal of the dipstick, then an oil change is definitely due. Also helps to wipe the dipstick with a tissue so you can see how badly discoloured or contaminated the oil is. Old school approach is a 5000 km oil change interval. For an extended oil change interval, then you need to be using a better quality oil e.g. full synthetic.

It has taken me a while to realise that all 2GR-FE engines are not manufactured the same. Overall design and specifications may have remained the same but improved manufacturing processes are resulting in achieving tighter tolerances. This is why I am starting to be more specific in my posts for the 40 series Aurion and the 50 series Aurion. Choosing the right oil viscosity is all about engine protection and reduced engine wear and not only at start up.

Some entertaining YouTube videos from our good mate John regarding high octane petrol. 2nd video is an updated version of the 1st one.

Lets us just say that I definitely know that 20 grade WILL definitely mess with the operation of the VVTi controller on my 2006 Aurion. I was using 20W-50 as an additional flushing oil I and just idled the engines a few minutes only before changing to the new 5W-40 oil. Upon startup, I thought that I was hearing the dreaded VVTi rattle noise for a few moments until the 5W-40 oil circulated into the VVTi oil lines.

Nice looking Celica with the Yamaha engine head. Same Celica as my mate's. It is still his daily driver and got no intentions of replacing it. Bit of a standing joke between us about my using diesel as an engine flush. Have not been able to convince him to try it. At least he is doing more regular oil changes. Last time I got my hands on his Celica, I gave it a standard oil and filter change. LOL

Never really appreciated the Estima until I saw one in a rest area while on a recent road trip. https://www.spaceshipsrentals.com.au/vehicles/beta2s/ Ended up having a good chat with the enthusiastic vehicle renter. Have to keep that Estima setup in mind if ever I want to join the Grey Nomads.

Now that is a nice benchmark picture of what a properly maintained engine with regular oil changes should look like. Just what I want to see with my Aurion if ever I remove the front valve cover. There is a glimmer of hope of coming close because I see some oil varnish on the VVTi controller. Something to aim for in the next 30K or so of oil changes. More road trips with full synthetic oil will help my cause.

I am guessing that you have already looked at the oil viscosity recommendations in your vehicle’s owner manual and probably also looked at various oil manufacturer’s Lube Guides. There is a slight difference in oil viscosity recommendations between the 40 series and the 50 series. Presumably there are engine manufacturing differences between the series with the 50 series potentially having tighter tolerances and lower oil viscosity range recommendations to support improved fuel economy. Lower tolerances would explain why 15W-40 can potentially be used with the earlier 40 series Aurions. In general, I would suggest a preferred oil viscosity for the 2GR-FE engine as being either 5W-30 or 5W-40 as an initial starting point. You need to consider the outside temperature when you start the engine and driving conditions. With my 2006 Aurion now with 220K on the odometer, I use a variety of oil viscosities. In winter I am more likely to now use 5W-30 and in Summer, use 5W-30, 5W-40 or 10W-40. Most of my driving is urban short distance so 5W-30 would be acceptable all year round. However, I do use a higher viscosity oil when I am on a road trip for better engine protection so 5W-40 and 10W-40 are my preferences. Over the past 5 years, I have also changed/progressed from Mineral based oils to semi-synthetic oils to synthetic oils. This also reflects how the oil specials have progressed to the current stage of a 5W-30 or 5W-40 full synthetic oil being regularly offered with a 40% discount.

Certainly expect a lower range figure using 91 instead of 95. If you want a ballpark figure try 10% such that the increased price for 95 is offset by improved fuel economy. I have just returned from a driving trip of 3800 kms using Premium 95 unleaded instead of the usual 91 unleaded. This was with my 2006 Aurion which now has has 220K on the odometer. Average fuel economy [with V6 2GR-FE engine] was 8.2L per 100kms outbound and 7.8L per 100kms homebound. These are real world figures. I was travelling at the speed limit mainly 110kph and not sparing the horses when overtaking. In contrast, previous road trips have been Brisbane to Wagga Wagga using 91 unleaded and average fuel economy was approx. 9L per 100kms [from memory]. After this latest road trip, the engine and transmission are both at peak performance. I am more noticing smoother pickup and lower engine revs when at speed limit plus also drop in revs when the foot is off the accelerator. So impressed that I am staying with the premium 95 unleaded. 2nd last refill was with Premium 98 unleaded and I did not notice any difference. Perhaps you could trial using 91 and see if you notice any immediate difference. Newer vehicle and different engine etc may give you a different experience but personally, I would stay with premium 95. With vehicles tuned for using 91, it comes down to the manufacturer's tuning map whether Premium 98 will provide any benefits.

It is an excellent teaser which has generated quite a number of comments and interest for the next video, if that happens soon. Anyway I did read most of the comments and made note of a few worthy ones. One I most considered was about using different brands of synthetic oils due to their differing additive packages to enhance engine cleaning potential. A common theme of the comments was a regular synthetic oil change interval varying between 5000 kms and 5000 miles [8000 kms].

If you go to 14:43 of the video, it is NOT Lucas brand of oil. We will have to see a follow up video from the fellow on the right after he has been introduced to the oil rep. by the engine repair fellow on the left. Maybe Tony can track that video down for us.

Tony, you have done it again and found another worthwhile YouTube video. I like to listen to those speaking on their subject based upon their years of experience. It now makes sense why I was getting differences in my fuel economy figures on the recent road trip. The engine would have been fully up to operational temperatures and the piston ring tolerances tighter after driving for a few hours in the morning then refuelling before driving the rest of the day. Because I normally do a lot of short distance driving [15kms at a time], it makes sense for me to have a shorter oil change interval for my specific vehicle. I had been more focussing upon the oil sludge accumulation and cleansing but oil acidity and aluminium bearings is certainly something else to consider.

Sounds like your engine is in very good condition at 41K kms. I full expect that you would have been doing regular oil changes etc to prevent/minimise oil sludge from forming. Fitting a oil catch can is more about preventative maintenance particularly to keep the air intake clean. I am just thinking that the better the overall engine condition then less oil vapour into the PCV system and cleaner air into the combustion chambers etc. Outcome is an engine really performing at peak efficiency.

Now getting the car ready for the next road trip. Front passenger tyre has worn on the outside so I have booked a wheel alignment for this Thursday.

Yes, that YouTube video really makes the point why every diesel engine should be fitted with a ProVent oil catch can ASAP. I will have to ask my son whether he has fitted one to his Nissan Patrol. Hence the reason for seeking out and looking at this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=moy92KmN7A4 I did look at the ProVent catch can but could not find one with 3/8" or 10mm inlet and outlet openings. After looking at that video, I should have further considered an option of inserting the hoses into the openings as an alternative. A valid point is made about the amount of oil being collected and frequency of draining.

The olive tone in the oil is due to the additive. Next oil change is due in 1250 kms. Most likely I will check the oil filter cartridge in a week or 2 to see whether there is any more sludge particles.

Part of the interest of a challenge is getting different results to what you were expecting. After doing that overkill oil change, I was expecting the oil to stay cleaner for longer. Previously use full synthetic oil had only done 1400?kms and was quite dirty already. I thought that it had done an excellent job of removing oil sludge in the engine but yet more to do in the baffles area of the valve cover. I was expecting that this new oil and road trip would remove any remaining sludge in the valve cover. Plan was to post a comparison picture of new oil vs oil replaced at 1400km vs oil after the road trip. Adding the Nulon additive which is black and grey in colour impacted that plan. I did visually compare the 1400km oil with the current road trip oil. Both are very similar with the road trip oil being slightly darker. As for the catch can, I was expecting nil oil. I did drain the catch can at Townsville. Most likely more oil got accumulated until later in Cairns. I was then expecting any oil in the catch can would have been sucked up into the intake on the trip back to Brisbane. At least it demonstrated that once the vapour did condense into oil, it stayed in the catch can.

Valve Cover Bolts 10 N.m 89 lb in as per this URL https://www.fixya.com/cars/t11092390-torque_specs_toyota_1rz_engine