campbeam

This is the picture of the oil still in the catch can after 1800+kms without the PCV valve screwed into the valve cover. Now given the oil catch can a thorough clean plus the PCV valve, the inline filter and oil separator [again]. You may be able to see the plastic tube directing the airflow to the bottom of the can. Looks like I will be just adding lots of stainless steel wool before refitting the oil catch can. Oil looks quite dirty after 3800+kms but the Nulon additive presumably gives it a darker appearance. I do know that the synthetic oil has given the engine a good internal clean. Oil filter cartridge has been swapped out and oil will be changed later. I also used a plastic tie to probe the PCV valve opening and did not find any sludge. Leaving the valve cover untouched at this stage. More likely to happen at the next oil change. After the oil change then I will refit the oil can and see what the next results look like.

Following picture show the oil on the dipstick after adding the Nulon additive. This picture show the oil on the dipstick after a days travel from Brisbane to Rockhampton. All looking good so far. I think that I did top up the oil a little bit, about 200ml. This picture shows the oil level on the dipstick after next days travel from Rockhampton to Townsville. Not looking good. Added remaining oil approx. 550 ml. Thinking at the time that I would need to buy 1 litre of oil [minimum] and kicking myself for not bringing more oil. As I previously mentioned, I bought 5 litres of oil from SuperCheap Auto Innisfail so able to top up to the full oil level. No picture for the oil level when we arrived in Cairns but it was reasonably OK. Just demonstrates the importance of doing an under the hood every day when travelling long distances. Oil is cheaper than a seized engine.

Short answer is that I do not know. However I suspect that the rubber sleeve is to keep dirt and oil out of the spark plug opening. Best to put them onto the new spark plugs.

Good to be traveling behind someone who is moving at your pace for the road conditions. Helps with reading the road surface and avoiding rough road surfaces plus any debris on the road. When you see semis slowing and swerving, time to take note. Once it was road kill and another time, it was a bag of something e.g. plaster that had fallen off the back of a truck

These internet overseas sellers may be an option for your consideration. https://partsouq.com/es/search/all?q=8377022120 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8377022120

Just had a look at the photos of that spark plug. It could possibly be a non-genuine NGK spark plug. So I would be inclined to change the spark plugs, clean the MAF sensor and the throttle body.

I reckon that it could be 5 litres for 300 kms of exhilaration. Certainly got my 50cents worth on almost every overtaking lane. Plenty of exhilaration to get past slow moving towing vehicles then cruise along waiting for the next overtaking lane opportunity. I do not envy those drivers towing a caravan especially when you see a semi-trailer overtaking them.

Left later this morning @ 7:30AM. First Result was [266.3kms], 7.9358 litres/100 kms mostly cruising at 110kph and with some hard overtaking. Final result for today's driving [435.7kms] was 7.12417 litres/100 kms also mostly cruising at 110kph and some overtaking. Now in Gold Coast. After 1785 kms, average is 7.533 litres/100kms. This is mainly continuous highway driving. Still very much surprised that it appears that cruising at 110kph is more economical than cruising at 100kph. It does not make sense because I have read that 80-90kph is the most fuel efficient speed. No surprise that there is a fuel penalty for hard acceleration and there is a fuel economy reward for smooth acceleration. Final fill up today was with premium 98 unleaded. Engine can have a celebratory drink while going home for all of its hard work on the past 7 days. Transmission will get a pan drain and refill as its reward.

That torque curve would have been in action when accelerating to overtake. Noticed the transmission drop down quite a bit and revs at 4500 for one hard acceleration. When I had time to notice, most of the time it would be just a change out of 6th gear or so with revs going up to 2500 or 3000rpm then back to 1800rpm for 100kph or 2000rpm for 110kph. Both engine and transmission have certainly had a good workout.

One reason why I have acquired old doonas from the girlfriend. As a tip, instead of discarding old office chairs, remove the back and arms. You can use the back to lie down on and the swivel base of the chair is handy to sit on while working on the brakes, removing wheels etc. Like yourself I have wondered about the not so easy location of the oil filter cartridge housing under the Toyota compared to other vehicle manufacturer's engines being more easily accessible from the top It is designed so that the oil filter housing can be drained prior to removal of the actual housing. In reality, I end up partial undoing the housing any oil then drains into a catch pan. Still ends up being a bit messy but at least most of the oil ends up in the pan instead of over the engine or on the ground.

Decided to make an economy run when we left early in the morning with little traffic @ 5:30AM. Result was [400.9kms], 7.2013 litres/100 kms mostly cruising at 100kph and very little overtaking. Next result [343.5kms], 8.5909/100 kms was not continuous driving and included some sight seeing touring around town. Final result for today's driving [338.7kms] was 7.0623 litres/100 kms mostly cruising at 110kph and some hard overtaking. Very unexpected so I did recheck my records and fuel receipts etc. Only explanation would be the transmission mainly being in 6th gear except when overtaking..

Latest update is that all is good; No more oil usage and no exhaust smoking on startup and even under foot to the floor acceleration. I did give the PCV valve a thorough clean. It was possibly sticking open. Interim workaround was isolating the PCV valve from the valve cover.

Thank you for the recommendation. Just checked the oil level now and all is ok after doing about 140kms driving today. Trip back home from Cairns to Brisbane should really confirm what needs to be done. Ongoing checks will be engine startup in the morning as to whether there is exhaust smoke and regular checks of the oil level. Probably best to give the PCV valve and vacuum hose a clean before leaving tomorrow morning.

Definitely not the valve guides. White smoke on startup for the Aurions is mainly due to oil sludge in the baffles of the valve cover so that oil does not drain quickly so oil vapor is sucked up via the PCV valve. Oil vapor then pools in the intake e.g. overnight so the engine then smokes on startup. Mechanics that do not know the 2GR-FE engine assume that it is the valve guides or the engine rings need to be replaced. Proven test is to "disconnect" or isolate the PCV valve from the valve cover. If you were to do this and the engine was still smoking on startup after a day or so, then you would need to be doing some engine tests e.g. compression test to identify the cause.

Certainly have to agree. Travelling at a constant speed say 2000rpm at 100kph, suction pressure is constant. Different matter when doing urban driving with more stop start and varying engine rpm. It makes sense that varying and lower suction pressures will provide more opportunity for the oil vapor to condense into droplets. Also need the baffles and filtering for any collected oil to remain at the bottom of the can when suction pressure increases. Plenty to think about in the design for optimum results. The other learning is that it is best to be having reduced oil vapor being sucked up via the PCV valve.

As planned, it has been a hurry to get here at Cairns; point A to point B. This morning was a nice tourist drive. Trip back is going to be at a slower pace taking 3 days not 2.5 days. Better opportunity for some good fuel economy runs.

Finally worked out that the oil catch can that I bought is not performing as expected. There is no 50 micron bronze filter or baffles in that oil catch can. I added a plastic tube inside to direct the air inflow to the bottom of the can. Looks like any oil vapor is still going into the air outflow. I will have to look at inserting a divider between the airflows and also add stainless steel wool. Perhaps fortunate that I have a different oil catch can coming {on a slow boat] from China. Oh well, another problem to solve that will keep me amused on the weekends.

I did mean that there was a cloud of exhaust smoke upon startup. Oil vapor is still getting sucked up into the intake despite the oil catch can. When I get back home, front bank valve cover is going to be removed to check/clean and modify/adjust the baffles in the valve cover. I will then be able to see how clean the valve train and camshafts etc. are after 5 years of short oil change intervals.

Better hedge your money and say same year model i.e. 2007 and similar mileage 215K. Also take into account my overtaking technique [think bat out of hell takeoffs] 4s would be operating at wide open throttle [foot flat to the floor] for much longer unlike the Aurion. Now having said that I drive safely for the road conditions etc. This mornings drive involved windy narrow roads with 40kph and 50kph advisory signs. For quite some time, it was more safe, relaxing and enjoyable to drive 20kph below the speed limit. Still managed to have lots of fun driving to minimize the amount of braking, slow into corners and accelerate out etc.

Started the engine this morning and noticeable exhaust smoke. Unscrewed PCV valve from the valve cover so it is now just sitting in the opening. We did a quick drive up the coast to Port Douglas. Girlfriend had a swim at 4 Mile beach while I just washed mt feet. LOL So after 2hours of driving, I have checked the oil level and all is OK. Engine oil is remarkably clean [for my engine] even allowing for the top up that has been happening. Certainly was not expecting that to be happening this trip especially after fitting the oil catch can. Will post more info in that thread of my experience/learnings.

I did wash the car but no wax. Leave that up my sleeve for Conrod Straight. LOL Left the 2 x 10 fuel containers behind for this particular trip. Next time will include a full container of engine oil.

What I would like to say is do any planned or intended maintenance ASAP. When I return from this current road trip, I will be taking my own advice. Once the QLD border is open without any restrictions, I will be doing a road trip to visit my sister ASAP.

Going for a drive to Port Douglas to look at the beaches tomorrow. Weather is a warm 27C with cooling breezes. Refueled this afternoon so will get another fuel economy figure and check engine oil consumption. .

Now got an annoying development. I have topped up the engine oil with about 2 litres of oil today. Oil level was just above the low level mark on the dipstick when I checked first thing this morning. I was not anticipating this much oil usage and only brought along 750ml of the Shell Ultra 5W-40. Fortunately Supercheap Innisfail is located on the main highway so detoured and bought 4 litres of Shell Helix 10W-40. I am thinking that the full synthetic oil has thoroughly cleaned the piston rings and in combination with the Nulon additive is now getting past the piston rings. Surprisingly, the engine has not smoked since the first day when I accelerated away from a rest area. Checked the exhaust this morning and it was slightly black indicating oil is being burnt. Soon find out tomorrow with a half-day trip whether the slightly higher oil viscosity is correcting this issue.

Getting more of a shake up than expected, reckon that the engine has used about 2 litres. Oil level was down to just above low this morning. Surprising to me, there was some oil caught in the catch can which appeared to be the Nulon oil additive. Drained those few drops bank into the engine and added about 750ml of engine oil. Ended up visiting SuperCheap Innisfail and bought 4 litres of oil. Will look at the oil catch can when back home by next weekend.