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campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. I went looking and found this link. http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7870/~/what-is-the-m-gear-shift-position-used-for-and-how-do-i-operate-it%3F
  2. That is the usual standard operating procedure. Let us know how you go with that wheel cleaner. Lots of servicing Plan Bs being considered and planned at the moment. Weather permitting and the "Looking after the Cook" priorities, it will be a busy few days or deferred for a few weeks.
  3. Actually my suggestion would be to look at the Y pipe modification. I did find this URL. https://www.chipyourcar.com/product/toyota-performance-chips/ Please note that I have big doubts about whether this product will produce the claimed results. If it worked as claimed then there would be a lot of word of mouth buyers. it I had a quick look at the ToyotaNation website and the posts are not encouraging; sellers will take your money.
  4. Last night when gently braking to a stop at the traffic lights, I noticed a bit of a pulse through the brake pedal which I am putting down to a high spot on the rotor. I recall that this pulse was a lot more noticeable a few years ago. After an interstate highway trip, braking was a lot smoother in that there was no noticeable pulse. Looks like I am going on a highway trip next week so will be able to see whether there is any brake pulse difference when back home.
  5. Maybe but nothing definite. After removing the tyre valve I am think of using a syringe and plastic tubing combination. Same one that I used for topping up the Century battery. Yes, I am thinking of rotating the wheels to help distribute the 303 then re-inflation may also help move the 303 around.
  6. No definite answer or recommendation. However, as a starting point look at Redbook. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2009-toyota-hilux-sr5-manual-4x4-my09-dual-cab/SPOT-ITM-278085/ With a lower mileage vehicle in very good condition, you should be able to ask a premium price. Probably check the local dealers to see what their initial asking price is for a similar vehicle. I also look at the Gumtree website.
  7. I have got the time and product to put to the test. I am already thinking that the actual costs are going to outweigh any benefits. Re-coating the outside is relatively easy. Just thinking that the inside product and tyre pressure will help with pushing the absorption towards the outside and be more benefical. I am also thinking that the inner treatment may help with maintaining the tyre pressures. That recently posted video with the GoPro inside the tyre really shows how much the tyre walls and tread flex so maybe another reason to do the inner tyre treatment. .
  8. I have been thinking that my Aurion has lost some get up and go on the open highway in the last few years. Main reason why I have been using a lot of fuel system cleaners in recent times. With so many changes, the engine is really performing well / more responsive just driving around. I think that it is more than running on 95 unleaded instead of the usual 91 unleaded. Plan is to get to the fuel filter assembly clean the pump strainer and most likely replace the fuel filter in the next 2 weeks or so.
  9. Is this what you found? https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2013-toyota-hilux-sr5-manual-4x4-my12/spot-itm-323206# Otherwise you can search for other models in the range.
  10. I was thinking that I had gone dyslexic again, so I was going to check. You know that your fuel pump strainer is nice and clean. Mine is an unknown because i doubt if the fuel filter got changed at 150K.
  11. White lithium grease as per this YouTube video.
  12. Actually, I was having a good nights sleep for a change. Same video lol Like a dog with a bone, I kept digging away and found these 2 articles. https://www.chevronmarineproducts.com/content/dam/chevron-marine/bulletins-/Chevron_InfoBulletin06_ViscosityClass_v1019_1_DESKTOP.pdf https://wiki.anton-paar.com/au-en/engine-oil/ I then went looking for the 2GR normal operating temperature and best estimate based upon the coolant thermometer temperatures is in the range of 95-102C. Kept looking and consistent recommended oil viscosity for the 2GR is 5W-30. This is also the lowest viscosity mentioned in my owner's manual.
  13. Good habit which I should adopt. It will also make it easy for me to see which bolts have been properly torqued instead of my usual "gut en titen" german spec.
  14. What about the ongoing detailing to also keep you out of the doghouse. lol While I was looking at my owner's manual, I noticed that the fuel filter replacement schedule is 150K. With no logbook service history since 2009 and odometer now showing 216K, time to go and look see. Also been meaning to check the ATF level soon, then do a pan drain later this year.
  15. I went and checked my engine. It has the same quality control type markings. There is no marking on the PCV valve because I replaced it. Your previously posted picture of the oil filler cap opening indicates to me that the oil was new looking so a recent oil change.
  16. I have always appreciated having a towbar fitted even if you do not use it much. Towbar fitted on a previous vehicle saved me when I reversed into a bollard at a Shopping Centre a few years ago. It also helps to keep the tailgaters at a distance. Still remember a bumper sticker "My towbar, Your radiator guess which one wins" and the business Enogerra Towbar and Radiator Centre. Unfortunately, no towbar on my ATX but the standby Prodigy has one fitted.
  17. Early June, I bought these branded LED bulbs from a different seller. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H11-4-Sides-LED-Headlight-Low-Beam-Globe-Bulb-for-Toyota-RAV4-06-18-Aurion-06-12/324163761700?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Huge difference in performance and very pleased with the results over the last few months. These IRONWALL bulbs are producing similar or better results compared to my previous performance halogen H11 bulbs. I think that the metal braided power cord is a differentiating feature for a better quality product.
  18. I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils many months ago but I did recently check the spark plugs on the front bank a few weeks ago. They looked fine. If oil or excessive oil vapour was being sucked up through the PCV valve then your engine would be blowing white smoke on startup. Under hard acceleration, you would be leaving a thick smoke screen behind you. I am going to highly recommend that you consider fitting an oil catch can or an oil separator and a.catch can. There is more detailed information in this thread. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/53534-oil-catch-can/?tab=comments#comment-576367 My installation is a bit of overkill but it suits my engine and driving conditions. I have a combination of an in-line filter, oil separator then the oil catch can. Actually I am expecting that next to none oil will be in the catch can when I do check it.
  19. I use cruise control on an interstate highway trip. It all depends upon the hill whether my 2006 [40 series] Aurion needs to drop down a few gears and revs its head off. With a steep hill coming up, I have learnt to have my foot on the accelerator to maintain the engine revs. A newer 50 series Aurion may have better cruise control sensors so will act differently.
  20. I think that this previous post is an unexpected gem. I did read all 6 chapters of the BTOG link. As expected, there is a lot more to selecting an engine oil than just the oil viscosity. Learnt and re-learnt more than expected. Recent oil posts in other threads on this forum mentioning 0W-20 have re-energized my thinking. Happened to come across this YouTube video from Chris Fix. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKdhgKUZhPA Interesting the fuel saving % quoted with thinner oils. Definitely went and checked my owners manual for the Aurion 40 series for the oil recommendations. End of the day, I am more interested in engine protection than performance than minor fuel savings.
  21. I do not remember seeing a separate condenser fan on our 4cyl 1998 XV20 Camry. I more recall the twin electric fans in the radiator housing/shroud. I did have to replace the radiator so I know there is a difference between the 4 and 6 cyl for that series/model.
  22. Your pictures might as well be those of my engine oil after 1000kms. Last oil change was with Shell Ultra 5W-40 and there was an afternoon drive on the highway which would have helped to clean the engine internals and dissolve sludge. My usual short distance driving is not helping. While checking my recent oil catch installation, I have been using a thick plastic tie down to probe inside the PCV valve opening of the valve cover and was surprised at the amount of oil sludge that appeared on the plastic tie down. Saturday afternoon, I dropped the engine oil and swapped out the oil filter cartridge with a clean used one. Plenty of sludge particles in the oil filter cartridge and the oil drain pan. Reused the engine oil at this stage.
  23. It is because they have bought a new vehicle [most likely financed] that they cannot afford to service. Too busy keeping up appearances and too much household debt.
  24. There is no dead spot through the rev range until maybe after 6000rpm. I am sure that others with more real life experience may suggest a higher rpm for peak torque. Interesting that you are looking at torque. I also consider the power to weight ratio.
  25. I gave the tyres on both vehicles a thorough treatment with Aerospace 303. Jacked the vehicles up so that all of the tyre tread and both sidewalls were accessible. This took a few hours and I did not bother with repeating the original treatment where the vehicle is left on jacks for 12 hours. As expected, the tyres are now looking like new. Still considering whether to deflate the tyres, remove the tyre valve and inject 100ml of Aerospace 303 then re-inflate the tyres.
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