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campbeam

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  1. campbeam
    I went to Amayama.com and looked at the Parts Catalog 90311-50033 01 05.2006 SEAL, OIL, NO.2 (FOR TRANSAXLE CASE) GSV40 90311-40029 01 05.2006 SEAL, OIL, NO.1 (FOR FRONT TRANSAXLE CASE) GSV40 You have probably already seen this http://www.tovenza.com/differential_oil_seal-852.html
  2. campbeam
    Have a look at this URL. I sourced my parts from Amayama.com . I had a very frustrating time getting that engine cover off. Ended up going to SuperCheap to get some offset spanners. It probably took me about 5 hours to do because it was so frustrating that I had to walk away to calm down. Many months later, I bought a 3/8'' 12V 32Nm Electric Cordless Right Ratchet Angle Wrench Tool. I made a mental note to myself that if ever I bought another Aurion, I would immediately deduct $500 off the price and I would even pay a mechanic to do it. Now gotten over that fissy fit so would take on that task again especially if that right angle cordless tool can access those 2 retaining bolts. 2GR FE VVTi Oil Line Replacement Tutorial.doc https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/diy-replacing-rear-bank-vvt-i-oil-line.432008/
  3. campbeam
    This URL should give you some ideas of what to check. https://www.engine-codes.com/c1361.html https://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV4 Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0370014.pdf This URL has a fix that related to changing a fuse. Something else to check. http://www.l200forum.com/t13981f11-Traction-Control-Lights-staying-on-Animal.html
  4. campbeam
    When you are DIY, it is also your time and effort. I know that my oil change procedure is overkill but I am not going to change it. I drain the engine and the oil filter then refill with diesel. Idle the engine for less than 10 minutes which is time enough to put the used oil into a container. Drain the engine and filter of the diesel. Use that time to fit the oil filter which is filled with new oil. Pour a small amount of new oil into the engine to help drain the last of the diesel. Refit the drain plug and fill the engine with new oil. Idle the engine for a minute then stop and check the oil level. Top up to the full level. Nice overkill to ensure that the new oil will not be likely to be contaminated by any residue old oil. Anyway, nothing wrong with overkill particularly when it produces the benefits you were expecting. There are times and circumstances when your opinion is the most important but at least recognize when you are in overkill mode.
  5. campbeam
    Main question is if anyone has used the Flashlube Valve Saver Fluid or Flashlube Injector cleaner products which Super Cheap Auto has as another clearance sale item. A friend was mainly buying this FlashLube product to use in his older BMW motorcycles. When I had a look at the claimed benefits, I decided to order as well for use mainly as a fuel system and fuel injector sleaner. Bonus if there is some fuel economy. 5 litre bulk buy price is attractive considering what I have paid for Fuel Doctor and various fuel injector cleaners when on special. https://www.flashlube.com/en/products/valve-saver-fluid.html https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/flashlube-flashlube-valve-saver-fluid-lead-replacement-5-litre/3228522.html?cgid=SCA8002840#start=3
  6. campbeam
    I have previously been using Xado as an oil additive more as a preventative maintenance. I really have not noticed any significant difference but then again nothing major has gone wrong. I have been noticing more engine treatment products coming onto the market in recent years. SuperCheap Auto has the following products on sale. Rislone Nano Prime Engine and Oil Performance Booster 500mL https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/rislone-rislone-nano-prime-engine-and-oil-performance-booster-500ml/556529.html Nulon Pro Strength Long Term Anti-Wear Engine Protection 500mL https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-pro-strength-long-term-anti-wear-engine-protection-500ml/561573.html Nulon Pro Strength Extreme Performance Engine Treatment 500mL https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/nulon-nulon-pro-strength-extreme-performance-engine-treatment-500ml/561574.html Has anyone used these products particularly the Rislone Nano Prime. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vBl9bXb_uE https://rislone.com/engine/introducing-rislone-nano-prime-engine-oil-additive/ https://www.smitsgroup.com.au/products/rislone/engine/rislone-nano-prime-engine-and-oil-performance-booster-500ml/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUjNtOCikqI
  7. campbeam
    I had a very similar experience of that sequence of events in that the battery was going flat because the alternator was not charging. I previously had the battery charging warning light come on for a few days then it went out Saturday morning. This lulled me into a false sense of security thinking that the alternator was working again and that maybe the clutch pulley may have magically fixed itself. A change of alternator certainly fixed my issue. At the time I did not have a multimeter but since then the alternator charges at 13.7V or higher when starting. Good point has been made about checking the grounding wires. In particular check for corrosion on the grounding cables where they connect to the vehicle body and even look for loose connections. Certainly check the wiring connections on the alternator. As a recent example, I had a loose connection on a set of jumper cables and did not realise until one connector clip came away from the cable. Another relearning to check everything and not make assumptions.
  8. campbeam
    Very interested to see a follow up post in a few months time to see whether the grin is still there or even wider.
  9. campbeam
    I am just repeating what is in WikiMotors URL: 300,000kms [180,000 miles] Just checked and WikiMotors has the same lifespan for the 2GR-FE engine. I think that we can both agree that a regularly maintained V6 engine should last longer than that estimate. Years ago, I was told by an ex-employee of a Toyota dealership who was working in SuperCheap Wagga Wagga NSW that the 2GR-FE engine should last until 400,000 kms before requiring any major rebuild work. TBN is about neutralising acidic deposits and to protect the engine against corrosion. https://www.amsoil.com/newsstand/articles/what-is-total-base-number/ https://www.spectrosci.com/resource-center/lubrication-analysis/literature/e-guides/guide-to-measuring-tantbn/ https://www.chevronlubricants.com/content/dam/external/industrial/en_us/sales-material/sales-sheet/ENGINE OIL ANALYSIS UNDERSTANDING TAN AND TBN 01-28-2019.pdf No direct answer to your question about the speakers but have a read of this URL. https://www.techwalla.com/articles/2-ohm-vs-4-ohm-speakers
  10. campbeam
    After reading the following URLs, you are on the right track with a full synthetic 5W30 engine oil. Given that the engine oil capacity is only 4.7 litres [2GR-FE has 6.1 litres], I can now see why you are focused upon the TBN. Apparently 1MZ-FE engine lifespan is 300K so best to stick with the proven results of using 5W30 and an oil change interval of 7500kms [assuming a fair bit of highway driving]. If you are tossing up options then consider reducing the oil change interval. 5000km is old school but oil is cheaper than having to replace an engine. I do a lot of short distance driving e.g. 15km trips so I have a very reduced oil change interval, about every 2-3 months. http://www.tcamanual.com/lubrication_system_1mz_8722_fe_3mz_8722_fe_-750.html http://mywikimotors.com/toyota-1mz/ https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2453536/1
  11. campbeam
    Absolutely, your workshop manual is your source of truth [as at the version date and Country e.g. USA vs Asia Pacific]. When it comes to recommended oil viscosity range, always refer to your owner's manual. I regularly look at the Lube Guides for Penrite, Nulon etc for my specific vehicle. What I have noticed is that the preferred engine oil has changed over the years perhaps in line with he latest oil specifications, developments etc. This is now the preferred oil for my 2006 Toyota Aurion with the 2GR-FE engine. https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-5-5w-40-full-synthetic It has a TBN of 10.4 https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/HPR 5 5W-40 (Full Synthetic).pdf In contrast, the next recommended oil has a TBN of 10.2 https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/full-synthetic-10w-40 When I did an oil change today, I ended up using a combination of Shell Ultra 5W-30 and 5W-40 because that is what I had previously bought on special probably a few years ago and was immediately available. It is very easy to get engrossed in the technical details/specifications but at the end of the day, I am going to buy the best quality oil suitable for my vehicle at the best sale price.
  12. campbeam
    Maybe. I do remember buying discount petrol for 14.5cents per litre. Time flies, yesterday is now probably 40 years ago [for me]. Handy to have these posts to remind us how prices are slowly edging upwards each year. Predict June 2021 Century Car Battery specials will be +$10.
  13. campbeam
    SuperCheap Auto are having a 1 day sale Saturday 06.06.2020 with 40% discount on all 10 litre engine oils. e.g. Penrite Enviro+ Engine Oil 5W-40 10 Litre now $74 reduced from $125
  14. campbeam
    SuperCheapAuto is having a 1 day only sale 06.06.2020 with 30% discount on Century Batteries. 55D23LMF is reduced from $200 to $140 75D23LMF is reduced from $240 to $168
  15. campbeam
    Usual answer to this oil viscosity question is to check the owners manual for your specific vehicle. It is also dependent upon the ambient temperature particularly when you first start the vehicle and daily temperature range. After the recent cold snap, I am going to change the engine oil from 10W30 to 5W30. I am planning my annual road trip for October/November this year assuming that the border between QLD and NSW is open. With daytime temperatures of 34+C and air conditioning on full, I will be using a higher oil viscosity 10W40 or 5W40 to better handle those operating conditions.
  16. campbeam
    Welcome, hopefully the borders will re-open but probably not until July. Most likely all dependent upon no new cases and another wave not eventuating. Just walked past a 4WD parked nearby the other morning and noticed the jack and shovel on the side of the roof rack. All prepared and readily available.. Guess that you are doing a lot of regular and preventative maintenance while you are staying at home.
  17. campbeam
    An option to consider is going to a vehicle upholstery shop. They should be able to add foam inserts and/or reupholster the seat.
  18. campbeam
    You will have to clarify the application of your 3 car rule. When stopped at traffic lights, I leave enough distance so I can see the rear tyres of the vehicle in front and thus I am able to change lanes, if required. It is certainly not 3 car lengths i.e. 15 metres I have also made a note of the sign on the back of a truck/bus which said if you cannot see my rear vision mirrors then I cannot see you. When on the move, I am usually leaving twice the braking distance of most other drivers. It makes for a more relaxing drive and reduces considerably the risk of a rear end collision.
  19. campbeam
    The main extra features are climate control air conditioning and partial leather trim. Assuming both vehicles were in identical condition, then I would be more inclined to prefer the 2008 SX6 with its lower price and fewer kms. More important is the service history of the vehicles and overall condition. Check that the rear VVTi oil line has been replaced and that the water pump is not leaking/needing to be replaced. Seriously consider what is going to need to be replaced in the next 6 months e.g.tyres, battery, wiper blades, front struts etc. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2007-toyota-aurion-sportivo-zr6-auto/SPOT-ITM-280093/ https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2008-toyota-aurion-sportivo-sx6-auto/SPOT-ITM-280098/
  20. campbeam
    I am drawing my own testing to a close because testing conditions have changed. Finally got some decent car covers so the tyres on the "backyard queens"are now fully covered up. My personal preference is the P&S Shine All Product. Still looking just as if applied after 3 weeks with a nice semi gloss look but this is on an undriven vehicle. Aerospace 303 on my regular driver is still looking fine despite not thoroughly washing the tyres prior to treatment. Tyres treated with the SCA products are also looking good so it all comes down to the "horses for courses"personal criteria. My recommendation is to thoroughly scrub down and wash the tyres each and every before applying your Tyre Shine product. Apparently this is to avoid the build up of any trapped dirt and grime which is going to reduce the effectiveness of your product. If you want cheap and quick to apply and not concerned about being petro-chemical based, then go for either of the SCA products.
  21. campbeam
    Latest socket acquisition is 30mm 12 pt deep socket just in case I ever want to remove the cv drive shaft / axle nut on the driver's side. I already had a 6 sided socket but it would not fit. When confronted with one of these 30mm 12 point CV Axle Nut (M22x1.5) , you definitely need the deep socket version. As I discovered, the Standard version is definitely not deep enough so returned to Super Cheap Auto. Well worth the difference of $1 to have the correct tool.
  22. campbeam
    Nice car, shame about the presenter's rating system. So after looking at a few other Toyota Avalon YouTubes, I liked this one, Oh to be young again with lots of money, enough brains and experience not to become a road casualty.
  23. campbeam
    I did an internet search and Repco is having a clearance of some of their impact sockets. Ordered both the standard and deep impact 13/16" sockets. They come with a lifetime warranty. Not as attractive as the Jimy set and will have to find a plastic sleeve [eventually].
  24. campbeam
    The simple answer is that they are in more trouble for not tightening the wheel nuts enough such that a wheel ends up coming off. Also it takes more time and effort to look up the correct wheel torque setting for each specific vehicle so at best they guess. I have bent a wheel brace after jumping up and down on it to loosen massively over tightened wheel nuts. Getting older and weaker compared to my young adult years so can be too much strain on the heart and chest muscles. Lot easier to now have an electric impact wrench and let it do the "hard lifting". I bought a set of impact sockets on recent special at Trade Tools. https://www.tradetools.com/product-range/hand-tools/socket-sets/force-1-2-19-piece-metric-impact-socket-set Now learnt that 13/16" is a perfect fit for wheel nuts instead of 21mm so that socket will be on the buy list.
  25. campbeam
    Unfortunately, I am going to "rain on your parade" or maybe not. For years, I have always thought that the Toyota wheel nuts were metric. This afternoon I checked the retaining nuts on the front drive shafts on my 2006 Aurion ATX. I will have to get a 31mm 12 pt socket for the driver's side while the passenger side needs a 32mm 6pt or 12 pt socket which I do have, Quite likely the drive shaft on the passenger side was replaced so will do a comparison with the 2008 Prodigy tomorrow. I just thought that I would check the wheel nuts and 21mm is a loose fit. 20.6mm spark plug socket and 13/16" socket were a perfect fit. Looks like I am off to Bunnings for a wheel brace and Trade Tools for a deep impact imperial socket. https://www.bunnings.com.au/supatool-4-way-wheel-brace_p0064875
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