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campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. If you really want a smoother ride, I would start by swapping out the struts and springs. Cheap solution may be to source the complete strut units from wreckers. I would also keep the original struts just in case you want to swap them back and sell the vehicle at a later date. Interesting because I am doing the exact opposite of going for a firmer ride to improve handling and reduce body roll particularly through roundabouts. I recently went for a drive that involved a number of hairpin bends with advisory signs of 20kph and 30kph. Since that day, body roll has reduced so cannot explain that one.
  2. This is what happens when you have a grey import; no dealer support. Your vehicle is post 1996 so it is OBD2 compliant. You could go to SuperCheapAuto and pay them to read the error codes. Also it is a CEL [Check Engine Light]. Alternatively, you could buy a basic OBD2 scanner from eBay and read the codes yourself then do an internet search using the search term "Toyota error code XXXX". https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Scanner-Tool-EOBD-OBD2-OBDII-Diagnostic-Engine-Fault-Code-Reader-Scan-MS309/114244316335?hash=item1a997decaf:g:RXkAAOSwRu5e1Hj2 This URL may also be relevant. https://blog.firestonecompleteautocare.com/maintenance/why-is-my-car-sputtering-when-i-step-on-the-gas/
  3. There was a post on this Forum some years ago that the rear sway bar on the Sportivo was solid and on other models it was hollow. Internet searches was unable to confirm that statement. A local wrecker had the 40 series Sportivo, so $50 and a delightful 2 hours later in the damp after some morning showers. I had that Sportivo rear sway bar. My 2006 Aurion ATX rear sway bar weighed 1.62kg and the Sportivo one weighed 2.74kg. I think that confirms that the Sportivo rear sway bar is solid.
  4. Struts and springs are different for the Sportivo. Lowered springs and struts are probably 1-2 cms or inches shorter. If you have a search on eBay, you will see different listings for the Sportivo compared to other Aurions.
  5. It is a big advantage of having an older vehicle which is a popular make and model. Plenty of parts availability both new and used.
  6. I am very much into keeping my vehicle stock standard [appearance wise] to maintain the sleeper car looks. Looks like you are taking a different approach with wanting to differentiate your vehicle. With your vehicle colour, why not further consider gold colour rims. https://www.autocraze.com.au/store/speedy-cheetah-17x7-5-5x114-3-gold-machined-lip-wheel-tyre-package.html
  7. Shortly after posting about 40psi tyre pressure, I went to a nearby local garage and pumped the tyres up to 40psi. They were previously at 35psi. Just so happened that earlier that morning I had a day off and took a wrong turn ending up on the road from Samford to Mt Glorious [northern Brisbane region] with lots of hairpin bends with 20kph and 30kph advisory signs. Back track to Samford then the correct turn at the roundabout to Dayboro for the trip to Brisbane's best bakery [radio contest]. Following morning, roads were wet and with half worn rear tyres, I was able to deliberately slide the rear end out a little bit on a few suburban corners. Just mentioning this because of the difference in tyre pressures Sunday was a trip on the highway from Brisbane to Southport on the Gold Coast. The ride was a bit firmer but still comfortable. However, this is with worn struts and standard 215/60/16 tyres. Certainly expect the ride to be firmer when the struts and springs are replaced very soon.
  8. It looks very colourful. Red backlighting on the radio certainly is different. After the weekend, I now have to get the CTEK onto a battery and fix the connections on a set of starter cables.
  9. There is this ad on Gumtree but the car is at Morayfield. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/morayfield/wrecking/toyota-corolla-wrecking-ae112-2000-model/1244560389
  10. I have found that when I have 40 psi in the tyres on my Aurion, the sidewalls do not flex as much and this shows in the steering being more direct and responsive.
  11. Time to have a beer and get a grip of yourself. Go find a mirror and have a look at the chump who did not check the water level in the battery. I know,, my sympathetic attitude [or lack thereof] is showing. Another hard lesson re learnt. Guess we can overlook things with maintenance frees batteries. New battery will sort this mess out. At least it happened at home and not halfway down the highway. Maybe towing that trailer was a bit of a blessing in disguise. Good reminder lesson for all of us to regularly check thoroughly under the hood before KARMA comes along and bites us in the posterior when we least want it.
  12. I think that you have misread your manual. I am seeing H4 for low beam and HB3 for high beam. I have previously sourced my headlight bulbs from the Powerbulbs website and had no issues. Following URLs should be relevant. https://www.powerbulbs.com/eu/blog/2017/09/yellow-or-whiter-light https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/category/car-bulbs/fitting/h4-472/bulb-type/styling/sort/customer_rating https://www.powerbulbs.com/au/store/search/HB3?term=hb3 Probably a good approach to get the higher quality halogen bulbs and when time for replacement then reconsider LED bulbs.
  13. At that price, I would be heading to the wreckers for a suitable rim and tyre combination. I have a trolley jack and wheel brace plus tools in the boot. I also check the tyre pressure of the spare particular before going on a road trip.
  14. When I am researching different wheel and tyre sizes, I look at Redbook for the model range and a tyre size calculator. You have probably got either195/65/15 or 205/55/16 tyres. Wheel width is either 6.0 or 6.5. In contrast to Camry/Aurion, 215/55/17 tyres on 17x7 inch wheels or 215/60/16 on 16x16.5 inch wheels. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2011-toyota-corolla-ascent-auto-my11/SPOT-ITM-281960/ https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ The wider the tyre, the more likely for aquaplaning. Personal experience in a Camry is that it is not exactly the best feeling to be aquaplaning at 80kph after hitting the brakes and with no control over the situation. Very fortunately, the vehicle in the right hand turning lane stopped the intended lane change back onto the highway. A collision would have written off my Camry. I am sure that the situation would have been very different had I still had the stock size wheel and tyres fitted.
  15. Latest SuperCheap Auto 7 day deal includes 4 for $10 of the Export Wet Look Tyre Shine
  16. This previous thread is relevant for your question. https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/54146-new-tyres-for-sportivo/?tab=comments#comment-571714
  17. I did get mine a bit cheaper as an Australia Day sale item. This just means that you will have to use yours more often to get your moneys worth. lol You squeeze the top of the switch to undo and the bottom of the switch to tighten. Mine is set at 110nm which I believe is the torque setting for the Toyota Aurion wheel nuts. I still hand/finger tighten the wheel nuts then use the gun for the final tightening. I use the star pattern and go around twice. The set does come with 2 double ended sockets. Actual wheel nut is 13/16"or 20.6mm not 21mm which can still work with a 21mm socket. I did go and buy 13/16"standard and deep impact sockets which Repco had as a clearance item [bit of overkill] however I could have just used a spark plug socket instead. I am hoping to be giving the rattle gun another workout this weekend assuming suspension parts all arrive by Friday.
  18. I have been using my electric rattle gun a fair bit lately and noticed a current special for $75. https://www.mydeal.com.au/12v-12-electric-adjustable-torque-impact-wrench-255253?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7I3cnYCD6gIVCd9oCh0aeQRJEAEYASABEgK2ePD_BwE
  19. My personal criteria is for a touring type tyre with excellent braking in wet conditions. If I was buying tyres, I would be seriously considering Michelin Primacy 4 [New Generation 2018/9] and the Continental UltraContact 6. Also quite happy to stay with the stock setup of 215/60/16 for my 2006 Aurion ATX and 2008/9 Aurion Prodigy.
  20. For a while the wiper blade has been smearing so I thought that it was overdue to clean/replace the wiper blades. I removed the wiper arms and then the wiper blade assembly itself. Upon closer inspection of some rust marks around the U hook connection, I discovered that the underlying metal of the hybrid blade assembly was significantly rusted. After looking at the followings URLs, I will be changing over to the frameless aero style. https://www.wipertech.com.au/blog/which-wiper-blades-are-the-best?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvZ380oOC6gIVxRwrCh04iAnyEAAYASAAEgLWTvD_BwE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-jQs3OI6Gvo
  21. That wiper panel on the girlfriend's Yaris is more exposed to the sun than that of the Aurion. Ended up giving the wiper panel on both cars a good clean then a thorough application of Aerospace 303. The radiator cowling had previously been done with Aerospace 303 so it got another application. Interesting how dirty the foam application pad got even though that cowling looked shiny and clean. Guess this demonstrated how much easier it would have been to clean had there been a sealing coat.
  22. Certainly interested in updates to confirm that it is the VVTi controller only or additional issues e.g. timing chain, tensioner etc plus the end solution,
  23. Welcome. Certainly expect that the Kluger will be very reliable. Just have to do the regular oil changes with quality brand name oils. Something else to consider is changing the transmission fluids etc in the drive train. Helps if the Kluger has a good servicing history/records and the owner manuals.
  24. As far as I can tell the bushes are in good condition. I have been meaning to reinforce them using Sikaflex so will add them to the list.
  25. This post has been on my mind about how this outlay would have improved the driving experience. I have previously considered a rear sway bar but not gone further. This time I did a bit more research and an internet comment about upgrading sway bars was like a band aid approach for worn suspension got my attention. It is not applicable for Geoff's vehicle. However, I am sure that it would be relevant for my Oct.2006 Aurion ATX now at 215K on the odometer and I know that the car has a lot of rear body roll through a roundabout. I also like apexing corners. I have just order a set of front and rear standard height King springs and a set of Sachs shock absorbers for a total outlay of $950 using 3 different sellers. I have also got some adjustable camber bolts [previous purchase] so might as well fit them to both front and rear. Certainly expecting that body roll to be greatly diminished and hopefully not need to also upgrade the rear sway bar or fit a front strut bar.
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