campbeam

I ended up buying another set of ignition coils in May 2020 from the same USA seller that I used back in 2018. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-Ignition-Coils-Replacement-for-Camry-Rav4-Avalon-Lexus-RX350-ES350-3-5L-UF487/131133586608?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Delivery would have taken a few weeks and they are still in my spares box. Only reason I replaced my ignition coils was because of the time and effort to replace the spark plugs on the rear bank of the V6. I have a spare set [proven quality from a well established eBay seller] on standby waiting for a check engine light, poor fuel economy etc. Certainly hoping not to be using them for quite some time. My suggestion would be to play a waiting game. Definitely consider replacing the ignition coils when you next replace the spark plugs which is probably 100K kms.

I have encountered the same issue. I don't know for certain but I have always suspected the ambient light sensor which is located in the middle of the dash close to the windscreen. Following eBay listing has a photo of this part for information purposes only. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fit-for-Toyota-Camry-Corola-Lexus-89121-50020-Automatic-Light-Control-Sensor/113699120196?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D60fdda665b2d4f089f78ab1ccd45cf95%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D184432168914%26itm%3D113699120196%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I have got a fine brush which is actually a cosmetics brush [that I acquired in my bower bird/recycling activities] which will do that task quite nicely. I am sure that it was one that the girlfriend was going to throw away. Definitely not "acquired"from her secret stash.

Rattle noise on cold start up is usually attributed to the VVTi actuator. Regular oil changes with a quality brand name oil is a must for the 2GR-FE engine. There are quite a few threads on this Forum about oil change intervals, oil viscosity and recommended oils for the 2GR-FE engine. Consensus of opinion is to use a full synthetic oil with 5W-30 viscosity. I am currently using a 5W-40 full synthetic oil. As for the oil change interval, best to change the oil before it becomes too contaminated and dark in colour. Just for information purposes, this video is worth viewing.

Try the Amayama website. https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/camry

Welcome to the Forum. Suggest that you have a good read of the vehicles owners manual particularly the section on the maintenance schedule. Best to concentrate on the important safety items of brakes and tyres plus regular oil changes with a quality synthetic oil. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/

More than likely spending more in the next few years so better off paying that bit extra for quality and reliability. Looking at the full service history including replacement of brakes and tyres can also give you an idea of how often and hard a vehicle has been driven.

In the last few days, tyres treated with Aerospace 303 Protectorant, headlights cleaned and wiper blade inserts replaced. Now we are in for 2 days of thunderstorms then some hot weather. Car should get a good soaking out on the road. I reckon that the neighbour's swimming pool will be overflowing. After looking at those posted pictures, maybe some time on the weekend to try and give the interior some attention.

I got my 2006 Aurion via eBay from a nearby vehicle wholesaler. As advertised, the car did blow some white smoke on start up but not that much. Ended up increasing my bid to win. Bit of luck that their mechanic was still on Xmas-New Year leave. Their car buyer told me that they lost money on my purchase but it is a cash flow and numbers game for them. He specifically said that he was not boasting but he looked at about 7 vehicles that morning before coming to work.

Latest news has reported that the current owners of Takata are sorting through 20 years of test data. Presumably this is to identify to what extent the test data for each model seatbelt actually differed from specifications. Potential big impact for Toyota.

Where there is a will, there is a way. This is one way to fit a manual transmission. https://wilhelmraceworks.com/blog/2gr-swap Anyway, if you want a sportier vehicle, have a look at the GR Yaris and there is also a Ralleye version coming in 2021. In the meantime, I am quite satisfied driving my Aurion, keeping a low profile with a quiet exhaust and effortlessly driving past lots of vehicles with their attention seeking loud exhausts.

It has been a long wait. Looking forward to seeing this GR Yaris on the road giving the established hot hatches some brand recognition competition. https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/another-hot-toyota-gr-yaris-deal-announced-126552/ Always have disliked the "whitegoods" putdown to Toyota. Ah to be young again with no responsibilities and lots of spare cash. https://www.whichcar.com.au/news/toyota-gr-yaris-performance-pack-australia

Just came across this latest article about Takata seatbelts which have mainly been supplied to Toyota. Potential for a future recall. In the meantime, drive safely and defensively. https://www.drive.com.au/news/takata-seatbelt-warning-is-the-automotive-world-on-the-brink-of-another-global-recall-crisis--124451.html?trackLink=SMH2

I suspect that it was more the time factor. The eBay seller that I used back in June did say in the listing that it would involve a special order and it did take a few weeks. Interested to hear how you find those Pedders Sports Springs after driving around on them for a few weeks.

Certainly had the same idea but did not want to part with the $$$. Clicked on the link and seen that the price has reduced. Just ordered it now. Early Xmas present for the girlfriend.

Certainly planning upon ceramic coating the windscreens, I have got 3 bottles of the coating sourced from a China eBay seller. Still in the procrastination stage. I am thinking of doing the rear windscreen first before tackling the front windscreen. Also without a garage or carport, I am thinking about how to protect the coating while it cures. In the meantime, more concentrating upon the cleaning of the windscreen.

Wet weather time with higher than average rainfall predicted this Spring and Summer. http://www.bom.gov.au/climate/enso/ With more rainy weather this weekend, I more noticed how much the wipers were smearing. Wiper blades have now been replaced. Certainly keeping on top of things just in case the QLD NSW border opens without restrictions by early November.

@matt36415 This member lives in country NSW and does a lot of night driving.

Did you mean to say miles or kilometres? I would have expected that you would have an Australian model vehicle and the odometer reading is in kilometres. 5,000 miles is equivalent to 8,000 kilometres. Depending upon the condition of the oil, I would consider doing an oil change.

Unanswered question is when the vehicle was last serviced with an oil change. If so, what engine oil was used? @Squalledrecommended using 5W-30 Full Synthetic engine oil in this thread. I have viewed your posted videos. Valve cover does not look too bad but could be cleaner. Suggesting the following 2 products for consideration because they have high levels of detergent additive for cleaning the engine. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/shop-by-category/oils-fluids-and-filters/engine-oil/full-synthetic-oils?prefn1=size&prefv1=5 Litre&prefn2=srgBrand&prefv2=Penrite|Shell&prefn3=viscosity&prefv3=5W-30|5W-40&sz=60 Personally, I have had recent excellent engine cleaning results with Shell Ultra. Penrite HPR5 recommendation for reducing engine sludge was posted by another member [probably a few years ago] after he had contacted Penrite.

It is worth the effort to keep good records. Can I suggest that you consider taking some vehicle ride height measurements before and after replacing the struts and springs.

There is a good post by ZZT86 on this recent thread. I use Redbook to research specifications and standard equipment of a vehicle. https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2019-toyota-camry-ascent-auto/SPOT-ITM-529894/ https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2017-toyota-aurion-at-x-auto/SPOT-ITM-456787/ The 50 series Aurion is a totally revised vehicle to the 40 series. As per Redbook 2017 Aurion has parking sensors and parking camera. I am very much biased towards the Aurion with its V6 engine because I love/appreciate how effortlessly it accelerates from 100 kph to overtake. Fuel economy is very much dependent upon the lead foot otherwise just as economical as a 4 cylinder on the highway. If I was going to go back to a 4 cylinder Camry, then I would be looking at the Camry with its 2.5 litre engine and sportsmatic transmission. I would certainly want to test how quickly it accelerates for overtaking purposes.

For background information purposes, the Aurion has 3 catalytic convertors of which 2 are on the exhaust headers. Last one is on the exhaust pipe after the Y pipe join and before the resonator. Generic term is O2 sensors. However pre-cat sensors are actually air/fuel ratio sensors and post-cat sensors are O2 sensors. There are no O2 sensors for the 3rd catalytic convertor. I understand that it was there to meet stricter European emission standards. Sensors on the exhaust headers can be difficult to remove. Internet tip posted by a Toyota Technician is to use brake fluid as a rust and thread penetrator. Apparently, it works better than WD-40 and other similar products. Definitely worked for me. I purchased a 3 piece O2 socket kit from eBay and ended up using different length sockets. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Pc-Automotive-Oxygen-Sensor-Socket-Wrench-O2-Remover-Tool-Set-Kit/162972133984?_trkparms=aid%3D1110009%26algo%3DSPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D228209%26meid%3De588bd643ee4471a8d9c77da086c5e6d%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D203043681465%26itm%3D162972133984%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3Ddefault%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219 As for the O2 sensors on the Y pipe, access is a bit tighter. I ended up using a 22mm ring spanner on one of these sensors after disconnecting the electrical connector. When refitting, you use some anti-seize being careful to apply to the threads only. In my one-time experience, difficult part is more the disconnecting of the electrical connectors. Sometimes they unclip nice and easy and others are just stubborn. A bit of silicone or WD-40 spray can help. Not exactly a good idea to be pulling [or too hard]on the electrical wires.

🤣 Knowing that you readily admit to being OCD, I would have been more surprised if you had NOT stored it safely. I have got a ding on the bottom of the Y pipes and I was the one that did it. I should have been a bit more careful when parking up against raised concrete edging at the local Tavern. When you get a CEL for the O2 sensors then that will be the time to fit your standby assembly.

I am thinking that it could be a long time before you will need to swap the pipe out. Very handy to have those O2 sensors which will eventually need replacing. Hope you have sealed off the openings to keep out any dust, insects etc.