campbeam

It is heat and pressure and the quality of the rubber hoses. The oil cooler pipes when they leak are replaced by Toyota. It is a different matter for the rear VVTi oil pressure line which is no longer covered by Toyota. There was a Technical Service Bulletin released in 2008/2009? and a kit provided to the dealerships to replace the rubber mid-section with upgraded rubber specification hose section. This must have been a workaround until full metal pipe was able to be supplied. Due to the length of this pipe, you need to make sure that the mid-section is bolted to avoid potential breakage due to vibration. Oil cooler pipes are a different. The OEM rubber hoses were of a higher specification. Yet they still developed seepage or a pin hole leak. I have already had the "joy" and expense of replacing the rear VVTi oil line. In the meantime, I am keeping a watchful eye on these oil cooler pipes. @matt36415 Toyota must love you more than me to send you letters to come in for a replacement.

As general advice, I would be inclined to change the transmission fluid.

Most certainly get a new battery. I would be inclined to also put it on a charger so that you know it is fully charged before fitting it in the vehicle. This should only take a number of minutes.

In that case, the wheels would be 17 x 6.5 and tyres 225/65/R17 https://www.redbook.com.au/cars/details/2007-toyota-kluger-grande-auto-awd-my06/SPOT-ITM-278325/

The attached link for a tyre size comparison calculated a 1"difference in tyre diameter. Hopefully that will give you enough clearance. https://tiresize.com/comparison/

Seeing that the rattle is only happening occasionally, I would not be too concerned. However, it is something to keep monitoring in case it starts to happen much more frequently. There are other threads on this Forum where members have changed the oil viscosity, sometimes lower and sometimes higher with pleasing results. In other cases, the issue has been caused by loose bolts on the VVTi controller.

I mainly wanted to clean the windscreen so ended up hand washing the car including the tyres yesterday morning. Applied Aerospace 303 to the tyres with a foam applicator pad. As Tony mentioned with the wipe on method, I did do 2 applications per wheel. Rather than jack up the wheels, I moved the car forward 1/2 a wheel rotation and gave that section now on top, 2 applications. Car was let sit for about 4 hours before being driven in the afternoon. Checked now and there was no obvious sling around 3 of the wheel arches. 4th arch was probable but my hand washing was fairly quick.

I went looking for a likely explanation. Following URL has charts for BHP and torque for the 1NZ-FE engine. I did notice another post in a Forum where the limit of the engine with stock internals is 149 BHP the presumably the piston rods fail. http://www.sourcingautoparts.com/toyota-yaris-1nz-fe-2005-turbocharger-turbo-kit-10003721

On my dashboard mat, there is a cut flap section. Follow YouTube video shows that is going to work if the airbag does deploy.

I can relate very much to your latest post. The girlfriend has the 3 door Yaris hatchback and I get a buzz just sitting in the passenger seat when she is not in Nana driving mode. 😇 Let us know what tyres you end up selecting. Somehow I think that you could be driving the Echo for quite a while.

As you say, it gets up and goes. You will have noticed how high revving the engine is so look after the engine with regular oil and filter changes using a quality full synthetic oil. Also look after the engine coolant and the transmission fluid. Always have a set of quality brand name tyres fitted. With such a light weight, I would stay with the recommended tyre width profile. Same thing for the brakes and rotors with regular changes of the brake fluid. Something else you could consider is braided brake lines. You could also consider upgrading the headlight bulbs. Other bulbs can be replaced with LEDs.

Not going to look as nice as the reupholstered wheel, but I bought a leather steering wheel cover on eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Luxury-Steering-Wheel-Cover-Breathable-Perforated-Black-Real-Leather/252297882639?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Shortly after I bought it, SuperCheap Auto had a special on for the RM WIlliams steering wheel cover. It just happens to be on special now until 22.12.2020 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/r.m.williams-r.m.williams-steering-wheel-cover-leather-black-380mm/225426.html

That quote sounds more realistic. Also your opportunity to confirm exactly what is included in the quote and what mufflers are proposed to be fitted.

Now that you mentioned that specific benefit, it would be worthwhile for cleaning under the engine. Certainly an area that does not get the greatest clean even when you go play in the rain and deliberately drive through puddles to give the underneath an impromptu pressure wash.

Following YouTube video relates to a number of posts of timing chains vs belts. Another good reason why you should do regular oil changes.

Even if you end up replacing engine mounts or bushings, still pays to reinforce the new ones with Sikaflex. A 150ml squeeze tube of Sikaflex is sufficient to do both the engine mount and the 2 lower control arm bushings. It is possible to do the engine mount insitu. I just found it easier to remove the engine mount and then use the rubber covers to force/sqeeze the Sikaflex into the open spaces of the bushing. As for the lower control arm bushings, it is easier to Sikaflex them insitu even though it is harder to access the rear opening of the bushing. Removing the lower control arms will make it easier to completely Sikaflex the bushing but it may affect the wheel alignment.

I was under the impression that Toyota had redesigned the piston and the oil ring to address the excessive oil consumption issue. The following YouTube video indicates otherwise and that the underlying cause is poor quality oils with not enough detergent additive.

Odometer reading is now 225,225kms so driven about 500kms since the last oil change. Before the oil was relatively transparent on the dipstick but now getting a slight golden colour. Looks like "Sludgy" is keeping her name until the oil stays cleaner for a lot longer. It was not raining yesterday afternoon, so I ended up dropping the engine oil then refilled the engine via the PCV opening in the valve cover and repeated. Thinking was that any sludge particles in the engine pan would get flushed into the oil drain pan. End result was that there were no sludge particles on the bottom of the oil drain pan. I will leave checking the oil filter cartridge and housing for another time when the odometer reading is close to 227,227kms.

As per the Product Sheets, Sikaflex 227 has a hardness rating of 45. In comparison, Sikaflex 252 has a hardness rating of 50 but is more expensive [$20.35 vs $34.35 current prices at Bunnings. After using Sikaflex 227, there is no vibration in the steering wheel or vibration in the chassis. Very different matter when I fitted solid polyurethane bushings into an engine mount in another vehicle about 7 years ago. Ended up having to drill holes into that bushing to reduce the vibration in the chassis and the cabin.

Finally made the effort last weekend and reinforced the top right engine mount with Sikaflex 227. Removed this part so that it would be easier to apply the Sikaflex to both sides of the rubber bushing. I did notice some fine hairline cracks on one side of the bushing so very worthwhile doing this Sikaflex application. Sikaflex was left to cure for most of the day before driving that evening. Seeing that it was not raining this afternoon, I checked the mount and revved the engine a few times. Previously there was some engine movement. Now there is none so quite impressed with the difference. Nice bit of preventative maintenance so no need to replace that part.

Previous weekend, I finally made the effort and used Sikaflex 227 to reinforce the bushes in the lower front control arms. Jacked up the car and removed the wheel to get better access to the rubber bushing. After refitting the wheels and back on the ground, I let it cure for most of the day before going for a short drive that evening. I did not notice any difference at that time and the vehicle was parked until Wednesday evening. On Thursday evening, there was no noticable torque steering when taking off at the 1st set of traffic lights. Confirmed that at the next set of traffic lights. Steering is feeling a bit more direct so quite pleased with this outcome. Good preparation step for fitting the new springs and struts.

I think that your best best would be to supply the VIN number of the engine to a parts store and they should be able to confirm what starter motor will fit.

It may be an inconvenience but ignore that notice at your own peril. When that oil line leaks, you will lose the engine oil very quickly and an oil pressure warning light should display. Pull over immediately and have it towed to a dealership. This is what many have posted doing and fortunately for them, the engine has been OK. I have had an oil leak from the rear VVTi oil line [pin hole leak in the rubber mid-section] so I know just how much oil drips out of the engine just while it is idling. Apparently an oil leak from the oil cooler lines can be much worst. One reason why I check my oil level weekly and inspect the oil cooler lines [for any oil seepage] whenever I have the car up on ramps.

Have a look for a silver sticker affixed in the driver's door opening. Another way is to put the car up on ramps and have a look at the oil cooler pipes which are located near the oil filter cartridge housing. Following YouTube video will show where to look and the full metal replacement pipes.

I previously located this fix advertised on the internet but have not purchased it. https://stickydashfix.com/