Jump to content


Whip Cracker

Regular Member
  • Posts

    687
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Whip Cracker

  1. I use this stuff I got from Jaycar called "CO Contact Cleaner". There is a spray that you use to clean PCBs and the likes... use it at work a lot on PABX systems. I'd suggest cleaning the connecter as much as possible and also checking the switch that you use to turn the lights on/off. I had a problem with the indicators not working correctly (moving the stick up/down was getting more stiffer) and got a lil bit on the turning part of the headlights and stuff... seems to be working smoothly now :)
  2. "Exactly" no... but hell, an E153 swap none the less... something's gotta hold that Supercharger of yours...
  3. E153 gearbox off a camry will cost between $600-800 depending on km and year. And the axles off the manual camry will be extremely hard to find but they are about $175 each side. And you have to specify the abs or the non abs ones as the abs ones have a clip for the sensor. Dont ask me how I know :P Don't spose you know this info Anthony coz the car's in surgery at the moment doing the exact same thing? Hehehehehe... damn need LSD mate!!
  4. Mate, you'll have a hybrid... a mix of my car, Dan's car and Tina's car... will look impressive no doubt. The parts are easy to get ahold of... it's getting them installed. The person to ask about the M3 sides would be Dan from Perth... trying to get ahold of him might be a bit harder than expected though. Man it was a sic car..
  5. Bendix changed the range of their pads a few months back from what I could see... I was after some Bendix Advance pads (good up to 380 degrees) but no one could source them because they weren't being made... I settled with General CTs, and quite honestly there's no reason for me to have had the Advance pads anyway. I'm not a hoon and I can't see myself trying to brake like a mad man :P I wouldn't be suprised that they might have stopped making the pads for that model Camry.
  6. When you're spending half of the driving time, *not driving*, what could you expect? It's going to use fuel when you're sitting in idle... lol. If you were say, normal driving... through normal streets without bad congestion etc, and you STILL had that figure, then yeh, that's not good. If anything, you'll get a more accurate calculation on the amount of time the car is RUNNING per litre used, and honestly, that's not even accurate at all.
  7. *drools* You tell me how to do it and I'll let ya know :P hahahaha. I'd have to get the brakes redone... re-do the Head Gasket... lol... make sure the tranny's all good... lol'ing at the amount of possible work to be done :) If our dollar got better, I would definitely think about it for sure... haah
  8. The only reason this Gen 3/4 stuff is being made is thanks to Adam himself... he's the one who gets them made up! Got a few things from this bloke... all for making my car unique :)
  9. They'll have to come from the States.. not sure if he's got any made up/being made, but yeah. Anthony, what difference have you noticed mate?
  10. Adam, our Yankee mate (aka ASG14) got a few custom made for us at Auscam. They're suited for V6s only. They're to help with direct power off the line and to prevent/stop wheel hop. Apparently the lads that have them installed love them... seem to work a treat. Mine costed me around 70 bucks. Adam shipped about 5 or so over from the US, I'm yet to install mine (slack as hell) but have been told by the others to hurry up and get it installed because they're heaps of fun :P
  11. Do the 1MZs have the IAC valves? If so, that might need cleaning out too... used to happen to me. Bit of TB cleaner and she was sweet.
  12. If you're going to change the exhaust on the 1MZ, you're best off getting the custom made Y pipe... most likely from the states. Anthony would be the best to answer that.
  13. Normally the worst thing that can happen for these engines are the main seals in the engine... then you'll have the engine mounts go. I've had to replace engine mounts in my 94 4 banger and my 95 V6 within the last couple of years (a V6 mount was only replaced yesterday). Other than that, maybe the ceiling lining and door trim will start to peel off... not much else really. Just like any car, if they've been serviced when they're meant to be, there's no reason why you'd have a problem mate.
  14. As Anthony suggested, try resetting the ECU... I disconnect the Neg terminal and pump the brakes a couple of times to try and drain any excess power... leave for a couple of hours, plug back on and off you go. Sounds like the car needs a bit of a tune mate...
  15. Sounds like a plug or lead... but doesn't help once the engine's at temp? Does it do ANY of this at normal temp?? I had a problem similar to this on my 3VZFE, found I was running on 5 cylinders rather than 6 :P One of the plugs was faulty...
  16. Projectors are a must... looks like crap otherwise and also blinds everyone :( Seen it first hand on a 4WD hahahaha Will come up a treat once they're done!
  17. Hah! Shrek! They came up good mate... the neck of them comes out a lil more than they should, but they no doubt look cool :)
  18. As anything goes - you pay for what you get. If you get replacement seats, make sure they're a reputable brand and also make sure they're legal too. If I'm not mistaken, you'll need to get the car certified by an engineer to make sure it adheres to Safety Regulations. A nice set of Recaros would be aweome..
  19. So... you're doing this on a shifter... so, Auto? If you search Toyotanation for "levoc shifter DIY install" in the Gen 3 & 4 section, you'll come across a guy who cuts the shaft down and installs the Levoc shifter... quite nice really.
  20. UPDATE: At the end of the day, it was a Spark Plug. The front bank on the right... pull the lead out whilst the car's running... didn't change anything. Pull out the other two, and can hear an obvious change in the engine. Replaced the front bank with the NGK Iridium IX plugs, gonna get the rear bank replaced by the mechanic next week when I also replace the front-bottom engine mount... stuff changing them! Thanks for everyone's input!
  21. Yeah true... will need to have a looksie at that... I didn't notice much oil when I checked the dizzy a sec ago... more down on the block? Who knows... I'll get the uncle to have a look in a couple of hours.
  22. Thanks lads, Money's not really a problem, obviously Iridiums are expensive, but if they're gonna spark better than Platinums and last longer, then why not? My uncle notices the difference... mind you, he was racing an offroad buggy with an SR20 GTiR hahahhahaa I'm just gonna double-check that the leads in the dizzy are seated correctly and also onto the plugs... they probably need replacing anyway. Thanks guys
  23. Hey people, Symptoms have changed now... after leaving work this arvo, it now is CONSTANT!! Hahahaha... sounds seriously like a boxer engine from a WRX with the full exhaust and the likes... very throaty. My uncle (offroad buggy racer) reckons it's a spark plug not firing... very lumpy sitting in D when at the lights... just a royal pain in the ****. I'm expecting the fuel economy to go out the window until I get the plugs replaced... prob gonna change the plugs to some NGK Iridiums if I can... give it a bit more spark anyway :) Any other suggestions to the problem would be awesome too... not lookin forward to replacing the rear bank!!
  24. Hey guys, Was on a cruise yesterday with SupaTouring and A yesterday and came across a weird problem... When in 4th gear (overdrive on my Auto) on a 3VZFE engine, and put the foot on the throttle, I get this sputtering noise, sporadic... drops the acceleration when it does it too... it can sputter when driving on a flat road, or going up a hill. It can do this "sputtering" noise 5 times a second no problem. It gives you the feeling that it could be bad fuel not burning correctly or something. I've used 98 octane V Power in this for quite some time... the only thing that myself and a couple of others think it could be is either fuel filter, dirty injectors or maybe even the timing being out... maybe even bad fuel. I'm not 100% sure but the mechanic reckons to change the fuel filter in the engine bay first and see if that helps... then to go looking down the lines of getting the injectors cleaned. Anyone got any ideas? It didn't happen when idling in P, but I noticed this morning when pulling outta the driveway and sitting the car waiting for the garage door to close, the car sputtered a little bit... has been happening for the last day or so, slightly noticed it Wednesday/Thursday after I filled up. Thanks lads
  25. Pffft.. All he has to do is go around the corner at 40 and he'd freakin flip it!
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership