Whip Cracker

Oi Sean, Looks like you'll be needing two amps. 1 x 4 channel to run the speakers.... use a Distribution block (like a Y Splitter) to feed 2 x Pos cables to each amp. 1 x monoblock to run the subs. You can just get an amp that's got the same power to run the Sub. I like the Alpine, Jaycar Response and Earthquake amps... seem to be very nice. Eclipse are ok, I've never used them before, but there's a hell of a lot better than them. Wait for Anthony to have a say... should be interesting to see :P

Some people are talkin in riddles here ay... what the hell's goin on? Whatever Anthony says - is always gonna be right. His stezza's probably one of the most powerful I've seen ever - it's done properly and professionally too... But gees, what the hell? As if you'd mention Kenwood and Sony when you're wanting "good" stuff?

You're joking right? So... that'd be the speaker mounted next to the throttle then?? Bloody hell... a tweeter bigger than the woofer...

I've never replaced mine... not my field unfortunately :P I own a Haynes Manual... covers the 5SFE, 3VZFE and 1MZFE as well I think? After the amount of detail that goes into that... I reckon I'd be able to do it myself with the help of the Haynes Manual. Has more better illustrated pics and more detail.

75w RMS? As if! They nearly blew my EARS OFF!! ... What was the price tag mate? If they're 75w RMS and they produced THAT noise then I bet they're damn expensive! The same theory always equals out in the end: "You pay for what you get" hahaha

Ya know what... I'm yet to see a Bodykit on the Gen 5s... unless it's the Sportivo kit :) The US is probably the only place you'll source it from (maybe Asia as well, I saw a few in Thailand... particularly Phuket - they were MINT)

600 bucks?? Wow... it'd wanna be helping a bit more than 2-3kw gain. The best bet would be the engine sound :) Custom setups are normally better, and much cheaper. K&N are a great brand... I use a panel filter of theirs and a custom made intake pipe (flex tube with the resonator removed, similar to Lateralus)... sound is much better, but nothing noticeable in gains anyway.

I love this plan - park next to an expensive car :P

Honestly mate, I wouldn't be using those speakers... Not too keen on the brand and also they're only 30w RMS. If you're going to put any money into your audio, you need to do it properly the first time and that is by buying a more than decent set of fronts mate... you'd blow those things with an amp. If you want a respectable setup, don't get anything less than 80w RMS in the fronts... the higher, the better. ... Why Blaupunkt anyway??

You can make your own High Pass Filter if you like... as simple as soldering a Capacitor to the Pos of the speaker cable. Jaycar have a Pricelist/Book that has a chart on what Cpacitor will filter at what frequency. Because my HU doesn't have a High Pass Filter (dunno why), I ended up installing a capacitor for each of my front splits... they don't go below 100hz frequency now and has taken all the bass out of the speakers. Just means I can crank them more and not worry too much about destroying them :P

Man.. you guys live in a strange area hey? This is something that I've never seen before :o I live at Moffat Beach on the Sunshine Coast though... the Sunshine Coast doesn't have that much of a reputation for this kinda stuff.

Lol, she's clean now mate :P That's what happens when you pull the whole thing apart! I got crap everywhere... and the footwell... well... bit wet up this way, brings all sorts of crap in :P Ask everyone else that I know on here... this car's normally clean as a whistle :)

When you get new mounts, you'll get MORE vibration than the old ones... give it some time and things should wear in a bit better and should be fine from then :)

Splits - pretty much 2 x speakers. One is a Woofer/Mid, the other is Treble, with normally is a 1 inch tweeter - you place these wherever you like really... I have mine in the A pillar of the front door :) Coaxials - all Sub/Mid/Treble all in one speaker (which are the general speakers on the market). A High Pass Filter is a device or a setting that tells that channel/speaker what frequency it can play. There are both High Pass and Low Pass Filters. You'd use a High Pass Filter to not allow a speaker to go under say, 80-100hz (to take the majority of the bass out of the speaker) and a low pass filter to not go anything higher than say 60hz, so it only plays a low frequency... rather than just *rumble rumble rumble* from the sub when it's not meant to be.

There's always a possibility that the previous owner's "treated" the wheel and shifter. I could imagine sun damage on the wheel... but the shifter? Not likely. Mine both look like brand new... I ended up getting a wheel cover that moulded perfectly to my one... but you need to get used to the stitching seams, even with the leather seams on the wheel.

Really? I've never had this issue... Since you say that, I might re-invest with another wheel cover :) My car's parked in a garage most of the time but at work it's out in the sun.. How's the shifter going? Any issue there??

Hey mate, Gen 3s speakers are useless... the rears in particular - the 6x9s in the back aren't too bad actually (Screaming Jets went real well with them :P ) May I suggest custom made door pods? Basically 6.5 inch splits (Focals are nice), you build the speaker into the door panel... fibreglass or wood MDF cut to the shape of the grill in the door panel. I did this on my last Camry... came out well. 3/4 of your music will be heard from the front... makes one hell of a difference when you have decent speakers that can handle the power. If you're going to try and push heaps of power to a speaker, you'll need an amp that can supply that kind of power. I've read that if you try and push heaps of power from the Head Unit, it will destroy your speakers purely because it can't supply the power you're demanding. Distortion just means that it's hit the loudest it's going to get before you need more power after reading a few audio sites (someone correct me if I'm wrong). A set of 80-100w RMS fronts would be good... the higher, the better. This is the nominal power that these speakers can run at, at a constant rate. Most places will sell speakers and tell you the Peak Power output (PMPO), normally the figures are around 300-400w or something dumb like that. It'll handle that for a minute or two... after that it'll start to destroy the speakers. My setup's quite simple... relatively cheap :) I have a Head Unit (Panasonic, works well), Pioneer 4 inch splits that fit into the stock speaker spots, roughly at 70w RMS, I have JVC 90w RMS 6 x 9s in the rear, a Kicker Comp Series Sub 10 inch in ported box running at 400w RMS and have an Earthquake 4 channel amp that can run 135w RMS off each channel. My front speakers run off the first 2 channels of the amp and the Sub runs off the last two channels in a bridged mode (2 x channels become one... you connect to the Pos of the 3rd channel and the Neg of the 4th channel). In bridged mode the amp will output 400w RMS... which makes this perfect to run my Kicker Sub. My rear 6 x 9s run off the Head Unit, which is plenty enough power as is... they're used for background fill music. The rear speakers aren't made to be the "Main" speakers by any means - that's what the fronts are for. Tune so the speakers have a High Pass filter... don't want them to play too much bass... (that's what the sub's for) and you'll probably never destroy the drivers :) This is my opinion... and what I've done. Each to their own at the end of the day :P Best off having Anthony (STYLSH) provide further input because his Audio... well, I woulda been deaf sitting in his driver's seat one time... the front drivers are INSANE!! You pay for what you get though :P

At the end of the day, you do what YOU WANT with your own car. Each person has their own way on cleaning/maintaining. What I give on here is my own advice on what I've done to my car. It works for me and that's what matters. I can only pass on what works for me and hopefully someone gets the same result. Each engine's different (even if it's the same model) Also, you may only fill from 91 to 98 once and notice nothing, that can be because of quite a few reasons. The most effective way that I can see... Change fuel filter (makes huge difference), Nulon Total System Cleaner in a full tank of 98 octane... 2 tanks later, try Nulon Injector Cleaner with 98 octane... engine was quite rough (exhaust was sputtering etc), mechanic told me that the carbon deposits were being burnt off... would go after 1-2 days, which it did. I get more mileage, car runs more smoother... can't ask for much else :) ... Supercharger would be nice though

Looks awesome mate... you can get a decent exhaust for these, but the sports style muffler for the Sportivo which is genuine sounds realllyyy nice. I've heard one on a Gen 3 N/A Camry and one on a Gen 4 Supercharged Camry... awesomeness :) I know Tash in Bendigo who's part of Auscam... she's got an 07 Gold Sportivo Manual... looks awesome too mate. Don't hear much cruises down that way, but TOCAU do the mega meets at least once a year mate.

Well... I got the cup holders installed, also replaced the stabilising engine mount too - was totally stoofed :P You'll notice that the cup holder colour is different to the rest of the console... I'm gonna try and paint it black when I get a chance. The Touring colouring inside is quite nice :P Also... you'll notice the O/D button is also located on the right side of the shifter... gotta love leather!!

Ay Hectic, I had a friend of mine use the Shell V Power Racing (100 octane) and the engine wasn't able to burn it off as quickly (This is will aka 94camry)... not sure about 98 though. Give it a couple of tanks of 98 octane and see how it goes. I remember being behind him on an AC/TOCAU Cruise and I was gaggin on the bloody fumes!

Didn't HAVE to take the whole centre console, he couldn't be ****d taking it out, so I took the whole thing :) There's a couple of screws that screw into the back that hold it to the chassis of the console that you can undo and place onto your own centre console, so I'm gonna give that a shot this arvo if I have a spare minute... just gotta find my screwdriver! Mine is exactly the same as the one pictured before. There are the two prongs that come down to support the can/cup whilst it's in the holder... when you push it in, they fold back up into the ring itself so it only takes up about 1 inch of space above the compartment in the console there.

I went to the Wreckers... got mine :P I'll post up the pics when it's installed :)

Yeah... I guess they mean "Economy" because you're not riding the gears out as long and not using as much fuel... car uses more fuel when it's working more. That's my theory anyway - so far so good LOL!!

The cup holders came with any model... depends on what the original owner wanted. These were an optional extra from the showroom floor. I have the 1995 Touring Series and I DIDN'T EVEN GET ANY!! NOR CRUISE CONTROL!! Whereas the 96 Tourer got the Cruise Control, but still didn't have the Cup Holders. There were the "Getaway" Series and the likes... one-off trims that got added extras, I know the Getaways had the Cup Holders as stock standard. I'm gonna try and source some of these from a wrecker or Ebay... I would LOVE some cup holders :P