Whip Cracker

I got mine from a fellow member both on here and AC... his name is SupaTouring (Dave). He used this mat in his Gen 4, but it's really made specifically for the Gen 3s. You'd be best asking him where he got it from as I'm not sure if they're even made anymore. I can at least confirm my toolbox and sub don't slide around anymore :P Mind you, I don't go full sik uleh with the car either :) hehehehe And yeah - Tail lights... USDM :) Lil bit of work to get em goin... but awesome lights. There's only 3 pairs in Australia that I know that have them... 2 in SE Qld and another set in WA.

Nice one mate... looks quite good. I have a special boot liner made for the Gen 3s that is a hard rubber... nothing slides on this thing!

Considering Anthony (A) has one of these chargers on... I ain't gonna argue with him :P hahahaha 7-8 psi is what the TRD Aurion uses... stronger engine, but these engines should be able to handle it :)

The other guy's right - each franchise is different. You get good, you get bad. What you CAN do is advise the company that did you car that you're taking the matter to Consumer Affairs and that you'll get a 2nd opinion from another reputable tint place in the area in writing to submit with the matter as well. I know someone that did this and the tint place redid his whole car correctly after that. So... had anyone else got any advice on tint? I'm gonna call a couple of other places here on the Sunshine Coast before I go any further.

Hey people, just thought I'd post this off Auscam to see what my fellow TOCAU members say :) I'm gonna get new tint on the car within the next week or so... Just wondering on people's thoughts on the best combination on what I should get. So far I've called two places... Kawana Tinting - $330 to remove old tint and place new tint - Lifetime warranty using "Suntech" branded stuff, using 35% on the front and whatever else on the rear and back windows. Tint A Car, Currimundi - $350 to remove old tint and place new tint - Midnight Express - 25 year warranty using "Luma" or thereabouts. Darkest legal tint... it's normally a 35% tint with black dye placed through to make it that bit more darker. FYI - Qld Law is that ALL windows have to be the darkest at 35% (T35), doesn't matter if it's the rear or back window, they're all meant to be 35%... thought that was interesting considering the last bloke I talked to said it was legal for darker tint on the rear windows... Wasn't gonna argue with a reputable Tint A Car dealer on the coast here... What's everyone's opinions? Cheers in advance, Shannon

Good to see the upgrades worked mate. The info I gave there before was for the dash... not the Head Unit unfortunately. I'm yet to change these myself, but it's up there mate! I know someone that's done it, but not sure if he comes on TOCAU or Auscam anymore :(

Kewl mate, can you notice the difference after the cable and battery upgrade? There's 4 globes that you'll need to replace & 1 x smaller bulb. The 4 bigger ones are called T10s (10mm long) and are a wedge style globe and the smaller one which is situated near the 0km/h on our dash clusters (might be different for yours, you might not even need one) is called a T5 (5mm long). I'm still yet to put a T5 bulb in mine, lol! Not too fussed... works fine for me. I have a blue colour through my dash now :)

FYI - Overdrive is essentially 4th gear... ECT/PWR is a button that when in PWR mode it won't shift gears til the revs are higher (sucks up fuel a bit more though) Shell V Power... awesome stuff :)

I've heard of this problem before... but we found that a bearing in the Alternator went... Considering this happened just after you got the HU installed, it could be a connection issue and maybe passing some kind of current/feedback from the Alternator? Not too sure...

Are you going to put one on? Only problem is that you have an auto. I might only have an Auto... just means I can drink Iced Coffee whilst driving :P I'd be more inclined to get a Levoc shifter mate :) I know of a nice Performance place in Adelaide that does a fair bit of work for Chasers and the like. *Something* Performance... can't remember the name.

I know LittleDavey83 knows how to program these... if not, Anthony. If you can't find out how, try Auscam or you might need to get Toyota to do it. It's meant to be pretty straight forward from what I know.

Adam, who the hell's getting the short shifter??? I wanna see what it looks like if I know em :P I've mentioned this... and always will, look for a Port and Polish on the engine mate. Costs around 700ish... maybe more, but can get some good gains from what I've been told :)

So... you're on a budget... but you bought this thing? Good luck! Looks like the connectors are going to be interesting... you might need some thin flat blade connectors to be inserted into the original harness to connect the speakers to it... aerial I guess, constant power & acc power... could be an interesting job. I don't think you'll find someone who can tell you each and every single step on how to install one of these... they always have their own manual.

There's a few combinations you can go with... Decent Head Unit - Can't say that enough - One that can supply 50w to each channel MOSFET will be great. - Front speakers - custom door pods if you wish... if you're handy with MDF or Fibreglassing, go for it... you'd normally place to speakers where the original speaker grill was, because the speakers won't fit in the door frame anymore. The higher the RMS rating, the better the speakers will handle at high volume. Anything with 70w RMS or better would be my pick. - Rears - Either 6 inch or 6 x 9s - depends on if you wanna buy the adaptor plates for them or not. You'll find a decent set that can handle 90-100w RMS will be the best bet. If you don't want them to make bass, tune the HU's high pass filter to not play anything under 100kz... easy done. - Amp - Monoblock for Sub only - Anything from 400w RMS to 800w RMS (depending on how fully sic uleh you wanna be). You can go to a Mainstream shop and buy the mainstream brands, or you can go to a specialised audio shop and get the non-mainstream brands which are much better in quality). At the end of the day, it's up to you. Sony, MTX and Alpine seem to have nice amps... I'm currently using an Earthquake amp at the moment and hasn't skipped a beat yet. - Subs - buy the Amp first, and then buy a sub to suit the amp. (400w RMS amp, pair with a 400w RMS Sub etc). Not rocket science... just good fun :P It also comes down to SPL or SQ. I'm one for sound quality, as long as the sub punches when it's meant to, I'm happy. I don't go for the h0000j bass and all! Hahahaha. This would ideally suit what you're after mate... from then on, if you want to drive the speakers a bit harder, buy a 4 channel amp that can handle maybe 70-80w RMS per channel and run the speakers off them... would sound awesome. The cabling I'd be using would be at least 4 gauge cabling - add an extra ground to the chassis from the battery Neg terminal... If you can, run the same sized Neg cable from the amp back to the Neg on the battery for the best grounding (rather than just earthing to the chassis of the car, coz at the end of the day, the Ground goes back to the Neg terminal anyway) Hope this helps. Shoot through some questions if you wish :)

I'd be more inclined to not just call it the "high beam bulb" but more "the bulb that turns on when you turn Highbeam on" hahaha It seems as though the highbeam settings allow 2 x bulbs to turn on rather than just 1... if you understand where I'm coming from of course :)

We own really weird cars ay? May I suggest a funnel too? Hehehe Your best manual you can get is the Haynes Manual - I bought mine from Repco for like $35 a couple of years back. Goes through the 5SFE, 3VZFE and 1MZFE if I remember rightly.

Don't you need to take the back parcel shelf cover off? - Take the back seat out (2 clips at the front of the seat) - Take the side bolster seat thingys off (next to the back side belts) - Undo the screws holding the rest of the parcel shelf cover on... you should then see the strut tops for the rear suspension. If you have one of them Granny parcel shelf brake lights, you'll need to unscrew/disconnect that too. Have done this many times when playing around with the rear speakers :) But I don't have one of those brake lights as they don't come with my model and are wired into the spoiler instead.

Yeah... I wasn't expecting "shaking" from the power steering... I had an issue with my Power Steering pump once, was harder than usual to turn the wheel..

Bloody Americans - think they know everything LOL Would power steering cause the steering to shake so to speak?

The Camrys work well with +45 offsets... 7 inch on 18s woulda been fine ( as per Will's Camry with 18s on Superlows) 7.5... maybe rolling :P

So... they could fine you for fueling up with 98 octane huh? What a load of bull****. If you ask me, a cannon's more likely to decrease performance unless your back-pressure's still decent. What a joke.

Is a cannon classed as an engine mod? Pffft... Come to Qld - they don't give a crap up here :)

Aren't you allowed to flare or roll the guards in NSW? What crap rules!! As far as I'm aware, if you want 18s and want to lower it, you'll be drawing a fine line on whether you need to roll anyway... I've seen many of our Gen 3s needing to be rolled purely because they won't fit. Will has Superlow springs on 18x7s and he STILL had to roll the guards. Good luck though.

Is it more of a "clunk", or does it squeak?? Moreso, does it sound like the shocks are hitting the top of the strut tower?

Spose any mod's gonna cost money... no such thing as "free power". The P&P WILL cost at least 700 bucks - but as I've said on a few threads - best bang for your buck.