DJKOR

Halfway or thereabouts. Rough enough is good enough. It's not a precision gauge.

Having your temperature needle on a 1/4 when you car is meant to be warmed up is not what I would call normal. When the car has reached operating temperature, you should find the needle sitting on about half way. After that, during the course of normal driving, the temperature needle shouldn't really move from this position, even under harder driving in warm weather. Firstly, have you changed your thermostat to one which opens at a colder temperature? This could be one cause for it to sit on 1/4 normally. Also as well, I'd be checking to see if your radiator fan is operating like it should.

Rubbin' in in Ash! Hehehe Michael... I think you got the wrong thread.

Jaw Dropping. That is mint Michael. OMG that's hot.

Usually you order them though places like Super Cheap etc and ask to get direct from the supplier. This cuts out the profit that Super Cheap can get if bought 'through them'. Otherwise give RDA or DBA a call and ask how you can order them and how they recommend. Define expensive. Remember, you don't get something like these for cheap. Expect to spend like $220+ per rotor for the 4000 Series DBA's. As for the QFM pads, best place to get them is through GSL RallySport. The gy you speak to there is Greg. The phone number is: 1300 884 836.

Don't always assume. You never know what the owner had in mind. Not 100% sure, but I would suggest keeping close to +45mm since hte Aurion rims work well on your car and those are +45mm.

What a mate. Shame he didn't know where to get them from. And thanks to you, it looks like that's where I'm getting my tires next. That's the last time I spend $860 for 2 tires.

What's your stock tire size on your Camry at the moment? Plug the figures into the following calculator to determine whether you will need to change the tires or not when you get it. I suspect you would have to: 1010 Tires - Tire Size Calculator Apart from that, see if you can find what offset the wheels are. This will basically determine whether they will fit or not because the PCD is fine.

Well if you already have it... then what's done is done. It's mainly just for future reference for others since the Varex seems to be gaining slightly more interest.

Not the point I was trying to make. The purpose of getting the Varex is to have the ability to make it go quiet when you want. Once you put the intake on, making the exhaust quiet seems pretty pointless because now your intake is going to be making the noise. You may as well buy two decent mufflers that don't have any of those valves in them like the Varex and save a good $500-$600. Will also be lighter (not really an issue for most people), and more reliable.

Actual SRI + Varex = waste of money. Once you put the SRI on, the purpose of the Varex is basically cancelled out. With the Varex open, you can still cruise around while keeping it quiet. It only really makes noise when you get higher in the revs. Once you put the intake on, regardless of whether your exhaust is quiet or not, you will get a bit of noise in the higher revs. It therefore isn't so quiet anymore. For the cost of the Varex, you'd be better off getting a proper exhaust and dealing with any extra noise you get when you push it, because if the exhaust doesn't make the noise... the intake sure will.

They sure roar even better under load don't they. Damn I miss mine. I wish I could fit one to my TRD. This thing would sound sweet with one.

Funny that, I spotted a red TRD Aurion 3500S on the Centenary Highway heading towards the Logan Motorway around 3:20pm ish.

Mirrors... best looking at all the part numbers here. There are quite a few pieces that join up together to make the mirror: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2007_TOYOTA_AURION_GSV40R-JETSKQ_8701.html What would be the Aero bar kit you are referring to? Not sure if I've heard that one before. As for the interior illumination kit, I would advise that a DIY approach will yield MUCH better results as this kit will cost at least AUD$100, and only consists of 4 LED's. The Slimline Weathershields... I haven't got the part number of, but they are just basically referred to them as "Slimline weathershields".

Probably had them fitted as an option or they make the facelift different when supplied overseas. If you look at the tail lights, you can see they are bulging out a little indicating they are the facelift variety.

Welcome Duc. I'm not sure how many Camry related mods you can find over here.... I always thought the States had more than we did.

Wow... this thread has certainly steered far from the OP's question.

Ouch mate. You only just put the grill on and it got wrecked. Sucks to hear.

Valid observation. Seems to be lacking quite a bit of tread. I wouldn't expect those to hold up well under serious braking. Even looks to the point where insurance would love to blame the tires. And I seriously doubt it could have all scrubbed off when it contacted the guard etc.

Hmmmm, come to think of it, I can't remember where I heard/read this, but I have a feeling that the electronic flasher relay will actually disable your unlock/lock indicator flash. I can't remember the reason... but I think I've heard it happening before. Edit: Here is one case of it being mentioned: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3519206 It might just be something to do with the way it works.

As far as I'm aware, to change the locking modes on the Aurion (the locking characteristics), you need to have the Intelligent Tester connected to the car. When you did your LED swap... you did change the flasher relay as well? Just making sure cause it is easy to miss. And your indicators work fine under normal operation?

Great meet guys. Was good to catch up with everyone again and see a few new faces, as well as getting back into the spin of things after my absence. Talk about a boosted meet. That's probably the most boosted cars I've seen at one of our weekly meets. And Team Ghetto FTW.

Some casual cruising sounds great. Well discuss it at the meet. :( Damn quiet car. Can't hoon through the city as it is.

This doesn't tell the ful story. As far as I can see it, you had to brake suddenly at high speed and in the process, you managed to travel to the right at the same time and have a collision. You can't expect the car to do all the stopping and steering for you. ABS, VSC, Traction Control.... they are all driver aides... to assist good driving skills.

Try pushing the clip down while pulling on the grill. If that doesn't work, try putting a flat blade under the clip and lever it up while pulling on the grill. I can't remember the orientation of the clip. That's about the best I can explain it. If you have good eyes, use a torch and look at how the clip locks in. It should be fairly obvious after that.