DJKOR

Fractionally. At least they aren't heavier.

I will just repeat my words, what you decide on is up to you. The product may be named different, but essentially, it is just the same thing: The Sprint Booster or the E-Booster as you have posted don't have any adjustment. They would only be set to one mode similar to the 'Sports' mode I mentioned above.

I haven't come across any one that is not labelled. That is an odd case you have there. As Mick said, some have it on the actual pump handle itself or have a specific colour with a guide on the bowser. Stick with the same fuel and it makes it easy. All I need to remember is the dark blue pump at BP and I'm set.

Probably the best gathering of data can be found in the following answer from the FAQ's. The links lead to thread where people have posted their real world experience with fuel consumption on the Aurion: As mentioned by boxerboy, the common problems you would come across are the dash rattles, the intermediate shaft or steering rack, the possible gearbox issues (flaring mainly), the VVT-i oil line issue on older models, and the steering to the left issue. It depends on how you drive. If you are constantly trying to accelerate hard or take corners quicker than normal, you will wear your tires out much faster than normal, especially the fronts. If you drive the car sedately like most city and highway driving with the occasional hard acceleration or corner, you can expect much better life out of your tires. The stock tires can last 45,000km+ if you drive conservatively, or they can last less than half of that if you want to push it. It all depends on your own driving. Being a front wheel drive though, you can expect tire wear to be more than that of a rear wheel drive when driven the same. This is typical of a front wheel drive. For normal driving, the 6 speed automatic transmission is smooth and does the job effectively. It's only when you try and push it will you notice that it has some lag to it's shifts and it does have limitations on how you can manually select gears. The gearbox was built for comfort in mind though so you need to realise that. With experience, you can lean your way around it and predict it's behaviour so you can drive accordingly if you so wish. There are the occasional gearbox issues however, and these can be read about in the link I provided above.

Search is your friend as well. Just for reference: How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear ! Breaking In a New Aurion... And a bit of cross-forum searching: Running in New Kluger (same engine as Aurion)

Hey do you live in the Logan area seen a rolla just like yours this evening on mekean rd slacks creek*sp?* had me drooling lol Northy doesn't have a Rolla anymore. Just the Mighty Yaris... if you don't consider his beast V8.

Can't get something for nothing in this world. To get brighter light, the filaments in the bulb usually run hotter since most bulbs have a high amount of wasted heat just to get light. Maybe OSRAM just never got it the same as Philips.

That sounds about right. And for only $15 more, I got my HID kit including shipping. Been using it for 20 months with lots of night driving including night driving on really bumpy roads (more wearing on the bulbs) and they are still going strong. Rowan had Crystal Vision for his headlights and fog lights and in my opinion, they weren't all that bright.

Bit of a statement there cause I've worked for GE Money and they are pretty hated. But yeah, just taking good care of your paintwork will help prevent it from wearing faster than it should. I've parked mine daily in the SE Queensland sun for a year and the paintwork is still nice and healthy. For 6 months before that it liven in Cairns and I'm pretty sure it would have been parked outside in the sun at the Airport.

Oh yeah... forgot the clean pics. Washed - SONAX Xtreme ActiveShampoo 2-in-1 Clayed - 1/3 of a Meguiars clay bar + remaining 1/4 of old clay bar Waxed - SONAX Xtreme Wax 1 full protect

It's now one of those things I've just learnt to live with. Lowering more would certainly look good... and comply with everyone's thoughts, but I am quite happy at how she sits. I've learnt to live with it. They certainly feel just that little bit stiffer than the stock Sportivo springs, but it's kinda hard to tell because my last set of shocks were on their way out and when I put the TRD springs in, I put new shocks in which really tamed everything down again. Thanks. They certainly can take more brake dust now. Yeah, they really do look small and I'm too cheap to do a full on big brake kit right now.

Nothing too much new. Got around to swapping my wheels over the other week and this was the result afterwards (will eventually get better photos): Then as part of the process of changing my rear wheel bearing, I picked up some DBA Street Series slotted rotors for the rear. Not quite the 4000 Series that I wanted, but they are always on 'backorder', and considering the amount of braking the rears do, the Street Series should do fine:

Pretty eventful day dedicated to my car. Things kinda led to another etc. - Changed my rear left hub bearing. - While I had one rotor removed (and it was stuffed due to the bearing), I changed my rear rotors over to DBA slotted. - I also used this opportunity to adjust my foot brake to how it should be. Now it holds like it should. - Since the car was up on stands, I performed a wheel/tire rotation. Then because it was really needed as well: - Washed her thoroughly on the outside and rinsed down the engine bay. - Cleaned her interior to my tidy standard. Previously had driven about 40km worth of dirt road and the dirt ended up lining the doors etc. Was filthy. - Clayed her well. Some areas requiring three passes to get her back to standard. - Waxed her with some Sonax. Now she feels like normal again. And for some photos for the fun of it. Before. Old rotor damaged due to bearing being stuffed: Out with the old, in with the new: Much better:

I always wondered that as well. Then I also wondered what happens with the spare remote when rental companies sell their cars with only one remote and key.

Birthday shout-out to Elgin (Supercharged TRD). Hope you have a great day (even at work) and enjoy Zombieland tonight.

Not 100% sure. When I got my Kappa's, each wheel came with (in addition to the wheel): 1 x Wheel Centre Cap (42603-06110) 5 x Wheel Nuts (90942-01058) 1 x Tire Valve I'm not sure if the fitting kit is just a fancy name for those parts, or if maybe the Vortex wheels are constructed differently and have a different centre hub fitment and therefore the fitting kit comes with a hub ring or something. EDIT: Looking at the top of my 'Fitting Instruction Sheet' for my Kappa's, it mentions at the top "Install using relevant fitting kit (refer to Toyota Dealer for applicability)." I'm guessing the fitting kit is probably the later part of my statement above. EDIT 2: I did a quick Google and found an eBay item for an alloy wheel fitting kit which seems to contain the hub rings and wheel nuts. I'm guessing that's what the Toyota one would be. Probably used where the wheel was originally made for another model.

As in the things that are like this... except about double the size:

You're thinking what I'm thinking mate. It's only an overnight drive and a tank of fuel. Highly possible.

Maybe. Unless someone has done this before, we would need to take you dash cluster apart to find what LED's they need, then put it all back together while we order them... then take it all apart to change them out. Bit of a fiddly process.

Are you ready to surface mount solder? Most dashes these days use LED's.... and lots of them. Had to change my sister's Mazda 3 from red to blue; that was some task.

Those that are getting the remotes because you only originally had one key/remote in the first place should also consider getting another master key. If you lose your only master key, Toyota is going to charge WAY more to get everything fixed. If you get another master key, you WILL need Toyota to program it up and in that case, you can take all your eBay remotes with you as well,

If it's in the typical Toyota fashion, the nuts you will be looking for are just like described here: In case you need to know the name/style, they are shank-style acorn nuts All you really need to know is that they are 'shank-style' and have the thread measurements of 12 x 1.5. You can get them with different length shafts as some wheels require longer than the stock size in the photo (for example, my Kappa wheels).

All well and good, but seeing this is a public forum, you're gonna have to share now :P It's like running around saying you have a cure for a sickness and then don't tell anyone what it is. On this topic, SupaTouring had Toyota service people scratch up his wheels because they couldn't remove the wheel caps. He had them repair everything for free for obvious reasons. Waiting for him to reply because he might say if they are actually easy to remove if you just take care. Therefore the problem is Toyota's recklessness.

Edit: It appears Auspacks now provide a new design camera. Below posts refer to older style infra-red camera. Just for reference (this is the Auspack reverse camera): For me, the 92 degree viewing angle seems sufficient. It depends on how you want to use your camera. The main purpose of mine is to let me park properly. I always reverse park and prior to the camera, I would always have to open the door and stick my head out to gauge the distance. The camera had make it many times easier now. If you need to to make sure you don't hit any kids behind the car, you will find that whatever the camera doesn't see, your side mirrors will. So with that combination, a 92 degree field of view seems fairly sufficient. I was going to reverse out onto the street and set up some makers and take photos to give an idea of what the camera can see, but I just dried it after washing it... and it's raining. I'm quite fussy about having a clean car. Edit: Here are a couple of photos to show how close a small object on the ground needs to be to the rear of the car to be seen. Of course you can see objects that are closer to the car, so long as they are taller.