DJKOR

Southside Toyota Wooloongabba for my Aurion: 45,000km - $239.90 - Included in cost was oil filter and gasket, engine air filter, and windscreen washer additive. Own oil was provided. 60,000km - $261.70 - Included in cost was oil filter and gasket, and windscreen washer additive. Own oil and brake fluid was provided. 75,000km - $207.50 - Included in cost was oil filter and gasket. Own oil was provided. Said no to windscreen washer additive.

Yeah, this Freeview thing is just a marketing ploy. It's out there to hopefully make better sales. From my perspective, I find it quite funny, but I deal with everything TV related for my job. Basically Freeview IS digital television. Every broadcaster is allowed 2 standard definition (SD) channels and 1 high definition (HD) channel. Being able to get up to three channels per station when compared to analogue TV is what made their marketing guys call it Freeview. See digital TV in the form of built in tuners and set top boxes have been out for ages. There are still quite a few people out there who haven't put thought to it and still use analogue TV. By calling digital TV by the name of Freeview, it sounds a bit more appealing I guess. The EPG feature is always broadcasted with digital. Most in-built TV tuners and set top boxes these days already handle this and how well it displays it basically comes down to the quality of the TV/box you purchase. For example my $50 HD set top box here can only handle the next few programs on every channel, but my $600 ($850 retail) Samsung LCD with HD tuner can display up to 1 week of programs in advance for every channel tuned in.

I don't have the TRD but my brakes are doing the same. It's fine when braking while moving at decent speed, but once you slow down to car park speeds, it squeals pretty sharply. Pretty embarrassing in my opinion. On Thursday, I plan to take my pads off and apply some calliper grease to the rear contact areas. I was going to do it when I fitted the pads but thought "nah, she be right". So that was my bad. My last pads had a rubber shim like thing on the rear mating surfaces most likely to stop squeals. They must have done the job cause my new pads don't have them.

Yeah mate. Just go for an aftermarket alarm system. You can pick up a range of different alarms to suit your needs and budget. No need to get a specific Toyota branded one when it isn't really any different.

Completely normal mate. My old Camry used to be the same. It's just so that the engine gets to running temperature faster.

Ouch. After all that hard work as well. Maybe time for an alternative mount.

As said, it is 70 litres. Just for reference: Fuel Warning Light General camry questions/answers

I have nothing against eBay for anything :D

Good luck. Maybe put some padding on your seatbelt before you slam on your brakes after it's all done

Good work mate. Gotta love that sweet induction sound. I'm well sure you are better than that mate. Each to their own though, but I will reiterate my opinions. I just don't like hearing money being wasted like this but ultimately, it is your decision to make and money to spend: ZRE-152 useful parts

Ingres was the one that got those leather-like seat covers for his Aurion. After fitting them, I have to say that for their price, their quality was quite good. Fitment wasn't 100% perfect, but close enough. The ones he got were more expensive than the choices shown in the OP though. These are like the ones Ingres got: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LEATHER-SEAT-CELICA...id=p3286.c0.m14 You get what you pay for though with seat covers. Usually the cheaper ones will wear a little quicker than the more expensive ones, but that is just as a guide.

I have watched that video so many times. Never get tired of that whine.

DJKOR <- Facebook username FTW frisk me (women only) :P j/k. Feel free to search for me.

^ Mate, you know what? Check out the Aurion boards. Any advice there on wheels and tires is a one-for-one match to your Gen 6 Camry. There is a ton of advice floating around those boards.

What exactly do you need to adjust? I have a variety of Torx bits that fit into the ones used on our cars. If I am in Brisbane this Thursday (and not Mooloolaba... again), I can bring them along.

Yeah, moderate braking on a downhill bend can set mine off. I should have put emphasis on the 'or' in my last statement. That's correct. A modern ABS actuator can pulse the brakes up to 15 times per second so it is able to prevent wheel lock-up. in my experience the threshold speed is closer to 20km/h I guess as you are accelerating it can seem like this (otherwise yours must be a little different), but mine is pretty spot on around 6 km/h. I know this cause if I reverse out of my driveway too quick, when I hit the brakes at the end, the self test will occur and it makes a funny sound.

Hey Rowan. Where are you? ... jealous??? Damn that is some extreme dish there INDOMI. Top effort for doing something that would seem impossible. 10 inches in the rear. Wow. Either it's got air bags (which you used to distribute right?) or that is one extremely stiff rear end.

It's all here: Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm 8pm)

Using the KTRL-61 will most likely mean that they will barely drop your car down any more. King Springs would have figured that the KTRL-61SL (super-low) would give a 'low' drop on the Aurion, hence why they use super-low springs for a low drop. Using normal low springs will probably sit the same as stock. It's one of those things I can explain better in person. I've tried before, but to me it seems like it would probably confuse a few people: That would be right

Someone has done a guide for their Mazda, but I'm sure the pop up lights on the Celica would behave in the same fashion. It's a crude way of doing it, but it's damn cheap. I'd be glad to help you out if you were nearby, but I don't think that would be the case (or is it?). Here is the guide for a Mazda 323 or whatever. Maybe you might get the general idea if you know how it basically all works: http://www.club323f.com/bg/guides/sleepy_e...sleepy_eyes.php

They actually do appear to be the same size to me, but for all we know, it may be just those few mm off that make it hard to interchange them. The headlights on the other hand look to be less tall, but I think that is an illusion.

I always creep up to lights etc after the initial slow down nearly all the time (better on the rotors IMO). Out of all the times that I have done that, I have never has the ABS system try and do it's job. Only cases that I have had ABS do something while stopping is when I've slammed on the brakes or tried to break while doing certain downhill turns. I had a re-read of the original post and though of it in this sense, but didn't really think it would be ABS (or electronic brake force distribution) doing it's job. Copy and paste for efficiency:

The average fuel consumption meter on the dash is reasonably accurate, but is only really useful to get a rough average. To really know your fuel consumption, you need to pay attention to your actual fuel used over a measured distance. Before we go into details through another thread, we should try to keep things together in threads that already exist. Some discussion about average fuel consumption as per the reading on the dash was established in the following thread: Fuel economy advice Then if you really want to see what fuel consumption you are really getting, you can submit your manual calculations here: Aurion average fuel consumption You need to note though that the cruising range does not always count km for km. If you give your car a bit of a push while driving, those km's will count down quicker than if you were driving more sedately.

Mate, you have had people looking at your post. Granted it is not many, but those that you would have gotten the attention of would have looked because such an engine would be something they have dealt with. Just because you aren't getting any response, doesn't mean that you need to make more and more threads on the question. Just so you know, factory workshop manuals are not the easiest thing in the world to find. If your local Super Cheap/Repco has an aftermarket manual and you say that it is useless, then you can't really expect people like us to have an original Toyota manual.

I haven't heard of anyone with that issue before. Sounds to me like the torque converter is not slipping enough as the car slows down to allow the engine to idle properly. Or it's not down-shifting as it usually does as you slow down.