DJKOR

I thought I heard word that someone wants Nebo this Thursday. In that case, that place towards the Coast sounds good. I keep forgetting the name. Springbrook or whatever. Gav would know.

Toyota have just release the news on their site: Toyota Line-up boosted by revamped Aurion V6 Their range overview has been updated as well, so I'm guessing orders for the facelift can be made now. Now I feel all left behind. Oh well.

I personally wouldn't know, but I sure would hate the epic job of cleaning my car afterwards. Air filter will be toast as well.

Yeah, I guess I could be up for something. Maybe somewhere else and not the Spit, but I'll see what everyone else thinks.

If it is not acceptable... THEN DON'T BUY ONE. Simple. Complaining about it is not going to make Toyota recall your car to put a switch in for you or magically make one appear. Why doesn't it have a switch? Because that was a choice that Toyota made. For suburban and city driving around Australia, the average person is not going to need to turn it off. Funny how you have said many situations because there have only been a few situations that I have come across over the last year that would help having VSC off. Even still, those were mainly on a wants not needs basis. On a side note though, in the States, the facelift Gen 6 Camry has a VSC off switch. Quite possibly the facelift Aurion would be the same. For those with a pre-facelift Aurion that have to turn VSC off, the procedure is as follows (as shown in the FAQ's that say to look there before asking):

Someone else who seems familiar: I wonder who this race car driver is:

Once you've lowered it and put on braces etc, about the only other handling mods worth doing are a brake upgrade. This can be either the same size discs and pads (just higher quality), or a big brake kit. After that, you would be looking at performance mods. Unfortunately, you are not going to achieve anything unless you go down this path: Great analogy. I completely understand that one.

Oh dear. WD40 down your throttle body and intake. Not really a way I would imagine someone cleaning it. I would highly recommend cleaning out your throttle body again with some throttle body cleaner (I use Nulon) and then wipe up as much as you can. Now you probably have WD40 lining the walls of your intake. Cleaning this would be a bit of a procedure.

As many other track goers say, I would highly recommend going out to the track. Straight lines are fun, but curves show your true skill.

Looking great mate. All you need to do now is put in LED reverse light replacements as well as the indicators. Unfortunately, I still stand by my word with the chrome surroundings. That's a personal opinion though.

Either way, his sounds sex. The sound of his car makes me want to touch myself

It's just like those people though that think they are fine using the speakerphone function of their phone, but still holing it like a CB radio. If the GPS is used in a manner in which you need to hold onto it, then sure... it should be under the same category as using your mobile phone while driving. However, they should not extend the ban for those that have a smartphone with GPS functionality that put it into a holder like a windscreen mount, etc. In that sense, if it is up there giving directions, it is no different to using a normal in-car GPS.

I don't think looking at one in flesh it going to make me like those tail lights.

Saw a Jeep the other day in the parking lot of QR with the plates "TYT ASS". Didn't think you could get such a combo. Then the next day, passed a BMW with the plates "BUM DR". Spotted a Corolla Sportivo today with the plates "14IKW".

Spotted at about 3:27pm heading down Mains Road from the Pacific Motorway: A black Corolla Sportivo with chrome rims and chrome tail lights. Had the number plates "14IKW". Surely must be an enthusiast on the boards here. By the way, you're sure good at weaving through traffic. Also spotted that Yaris again at Sunnybank. I believe he is not a member here but anyways, crappy camera phone pics:

Congratulations mate. All the best for the years to come.

Haven't had a single fuse blow on my car. Sounds like that's probably what happened with you. I have however had about 6 or so cheap eBay LED's die on me over the time I've had the car. Got really fed up when the front parkers kept blowing. Eventually found a decent eBay LED and haven't had problems since. LED's in the odd occasion can blow closed circuit, as opposed to blowing the common way; open circuit. When that happens, it can easily blow your fuse. No need to pull the glove box out. That's doing it the hard way: Lighter fuse Look at the fuse box inside the car. It is located behind the glovebox and is accessed from the passenger side footwell. All can be accessed with no tools at all. Let the pictures do the talking (sorry bout the dust, and ignore my footwell lighting): To remove that the panel in the second photo, you can see 4 clips at the front (bottom of photo). Use a little imagination there. If your finger is small enough, you press the clip in through the hole underneath. You should be able to figure it out when you get to it. The fuse/s you are interested in are labelled 'PWR OUTLET' and 'CIG'.

When you have it switched to 'DOOR' try opening the door then go to the door sin switch (located near the latch and usually with a rubber boot around it) and jiggle it around etc. If your light responds to that, the problem may actually lie within your door switch. These can go bad over time since with the older cars, it grounds the full current from the light through the door switch. Over time carbon gets built up on it and it stops working. You can usually take it apart though and sand it all clean again. If the above procedure does not work, the problem can lie within the selector switch for the light. This can be taken apart and cleaned up as well too.

The ones for the Gen 6 Camry/Aurion were a little like that at first. The guys that noticed it the most were the Gen 6 owners in the States on Toyota Nation. They used a rubber mallet to solve the problem. Yours looks a little more off than most of the usual cases. Let us know what Luis suggests. You know, if you can't come up with some solution, you could try lifting the front of the car so the two front wheels are off the ground. That may help give that little more clearance you'd be surprised.

I'll be there, dinner or not.

Yeah, that's what I need to work on. My main problem was that if I eased on the throttle too much, the gearbox got nice and laggy and would like to kick down another gear when I tried to get that power back. I thought it would have helped, but in all the laps where I slid my rear around intentionally, I couldn't get below 1:10.

Absolutely no risk at all. The only pillar that you need to be worried about is the A-pillar. It is attached at the top with a special clip that lets the pillar cover pop forward about an inch so the curtain airbag can get through. You can't physically remove the A-pillar without cutting this clip and then replacing it. The C-pillar on the other hand doesn't pop off in the even of the side curtain airbag inflating. You just take these off and clip them back on. Bear in mind, there are about 6 or so clips that hold it on, and if you are unlucky, you will loose one or two of these, but nothing that you can't fish out.

... You're telling me. I just felt the power slip away from underneath me. Only thing I am blaming my car for is the automatic transmission. I does lock out certain gear changes which makes it near impossible to work around. Apart from that, I think I need more time to familiarise myself with how my car behaves under track conditions..

Stopped a few words short: The VVT-i being 'some' and the VVTi-L being 'all'. It may have been easy, but for them they figured the main market for these cars wouldn't be those wanting AWD so for cost efficiency, they chose FWD.

Damn. You case sounds pretty serious. If you car has to be parked outside, you should probably invest on a good surveillance camera. As for the alarms, the type of sensor you would be looking for is a microwave sensor. These can get pretty sensitive, so setting them up is critical. Then that way if you have a dual stage alarm, it will give warning and then if they continue, it will go off full blast. Your statement reminds me of those old car alarms. Using the microwave sensors as well, if you got too close to it, the loudspeaker will say something like "Stand away from the car" etc. As for your window, there isn't too much you can do. You can try a class polish to try and temporarily relieve the issue, but ultimately the only real way to repair is with a new window. My front windscreen is sandblasted from all the trucks I've followed etc. Under full sun, it's looks like I have grains of sand all over the windscreen. Replacement is my only option. Sounds like you need this: Please wait a few seconds for Video to Load!