DJKOR

I dunno. I'm still going to give it one last go. Last time I found the colder the air, the harder it was to get my previous time. It seems like there is a limit to how cold my car likes it. Anyways, if that guy in Texas can do a sub-14 run in a Texas midday, then surely it can't be too hard to do it here. I'm going to give support for Evan's first time. I don't really plan on doing this again. QR is where the fun is really at.

Thanks for the suggestion Alfred Q. Definitely something that one can consider. In my own opinion though, if the rattle has gone away from a standard oil/filter change, then I don't really see the need to put any additives into the oil. Maybe it's my own mentality of "if it's not broke, then don't fix it". I probably would look into it though if I found the rattle still continued after the oil change. It's just for me, I don't like the idea of an engine oil additive when a problem is no longer present. That said, when it comes to oil additives, I trust Lucas products. If anyone does get a rattle that doesn't go away in the Aurion, it would be interesting to see how this ROIL stuff works. After watching the video, it nearly looks too good to be true. I wonder why we don't seem to hear much about it.

The best answer for this has already been written by the member 'Stealth'. In my opinion, this is probably the clearest explanation, so I will quote him: Aurion Gearbox - Sports Mode Basically in answering your question, you can just leave it in the highest gear that you will need, or you can shift through all the gears if you really want to.

I can't care about her acting skills. For me, that's what makes who she is. She makes up for it in cuteness anyways :P

You can still do both Evan. I'm going to the T'n'T and plan to be able to make a mountain run on Sunday.

Thought I would update this. It's been a week since I had my car serviced (basically oil/oil filter/engine air filter changed), and the rattle that I was getting before is completely gone. Have not had it since. Pretty reassuring though to know it's not anything that's permanent... at the moment.

Dearest spambot who goes by the name JustinW, You may be banned, but I would like to express my appreciation for your recommendation to watch '(500) Days of Summer'. I just watched this movie then and I actually really liked it. I must say that it was better than I expected, and the humour was tied into it really well. For those that know me, I really like to watch movies, so I really mean it when I say that I really like a particular movie. You're recommendations for Eonon head units may not be so great, but this movie here definitely gets my thumbs up. Kind Regards, Daryl K .... Seriously, it was a good movie.

Drew, you're entering the argument from the wrong point of view. The Varex idea is to have two different levels of sound, not just one that is 'right'.

They are two-piece in the sense that the material for the seat goes over a foam base. Much like any seat. If the outer material is available for purchase it would be listed as "COVER, REAR SEAT BACK". Unfortunately, the ToyoDIY.com database lists it as the split fold rear seats which is incorrect, so maybe you would need to speak to Toyota. For reference use: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_2007_TOYO...ETDKV_7102.html And instructions on how to replace it are on page 77 onwards: http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Gen6/2GR-FE/Seat.pdf

Yeah, the Yaris was parked there yesterday. I go there for sushi and EasyWay. Two days in a row.

That one I haven't seen myself in person. It is only on the Aurion's that have Smart Entry (ZR6, Presara, TRD 3500SL). That one in particular is one of the oscillators used by the Smart Entry system. This one would be the Inner Luggage Compartment Electrical Key Oscillator. My guess is that the range of your Smart Entry key will be slightly reduced until such time as you reconnect it. Having a read about the full working of the Smart Entry, I think the sole purpose of that oscillator is so that if your key is inside the boot, the boot release button will still remain active. It shouldn't affect the operation of the boot release button outside of the boot. Just for example, not to scale: Lucky you only broke it at the plug and not the actual oscillator itself. If you needed to replace the oscillator, you'd be looking at $100+ just for that tiny electronic device. Part number: 89992-33060 -> OSCILLATOR, INDOOR ELECTRICAL KEY Which is part number 7 on this diagram:

That's called ingenuity. Needed to protect the piggyback somehow.

Once the dust settles, I am going to get the gerni and wash my car all over. Engine bay, underneath... the lot. Then I will inspect the air filter and the intake to make sure no dust made it past the filter. I will vacuum the filter with the crevice attachment and see how it looks after that. Then I will pull out my cabin air filter and throw that out. Then get the vacuum and shove it in the hole where the cabin filter goes to try and pick up any remaining dirt. Replace the cabin air filter and run fan on high for a few minutes. Take the filter out and vacuum and put back in.

Before bashing the guy, maybe try to look at his first post from another perspective. Maybe what he means to say is lower the back more than the front in terms of overall drop. For example, even with the Corolla's, if you put King lows in the front and rear, the rear will still sit higher than the front. However, if you put in King lows at the front and super lows in the rear, the car will drop evenly. So the car may be sitting evenly, but the rear has essentially dropped more than the front.

The Varex which has been discussed here before with much argument, has a bypass passage for exhaust gases to go through when the butterfly is closed. This mean that no extra back-pressure (when compared with stock) should be placed on the engine. Now, this is debatable as to whether the passage is large enough to make it similar to stock or worse. All I can say is that I put mine on with confidence because I have a dual exhaust which shares the load.

That price for the clips seems about right. When I looked the part up, it had an estimated cost of USD$3.56. Those metal loops at the back of the seat don't clip into anything. They are there to hold the seat in place against the car body.

The path shown in the photo... a turbo. A sports exhaust is going to give you no more performance. All it will do is sound more powerful than it is.

I really didn't want to head to the drags again, but I want to check out their new LED lighting they have. I think I may run the Aurion again to see if I can beat my 14.131.

This one is a little difficult to describe without photos, but we'll see where we can go. So from looking at it, I assume the cause of your problem is the white clip section that sits on the body of the car? If so, it could be possible that the clips in it are facing up. If you look down into it, you should see plastic on each side pointing down like this - \ / . When the seat is pulled out, it is possible for the plastic to reverse directions. If so, the seat won't clip in properly again. In this case, it would look like this - / \ . If it looks like the second example, a screwdriver is handy to push the tabs down so they face the right direction. However, if the clips are completely stuffed, the replacement part number is as follows: 72693-12080 -> HOOK, REAR SEAT CUSHION LOCK

I took the entire centre grill section out, cut the mesh to a perfect size, and then drilled small holes for cable ties to go through. When it sits in it's place, you barely even notice the ties. An example photo. Excuse the dirty car. I can't help it right now:

Would you be willing to spend $2000 on a new dash cluster just for the possibility of having a slightly more accurate speedo?

Damn. When I made that comment this morning, I didn't expect that I would have to be cleaning so much dust off my car as well. I don't think my car has ever been this dirty. Oh wells, I guess I'm in the same boat as everyone else on the road. Just a few photos I took while working at Grand Chancellor today:

Spotted Ingres at 3:19pm today parked in the upper car park of Sunnybank Plaza.

S***. I've been indoors since 9am. Just got outside and see the CBD is all dusty. I only cleaned my car last night and now it's filthy after being parked outside all this time.

lateralus and Mick. Yes you are correct in saying Traction Control and Vehicle Stability Control are two separate features in terms of the way they work. However, Toyota made it so that disabling Traction Control also disables Vehicle Stability Control. That's why we use both terms for the same thing here.