DJKOR

Thanks that i was wondering my self i was thinking of just drilling a hole into the tube and maybe silconing the maf in place. by placement you mean how far up the tube yea ? I am unsure of how far i should place the maf. Just thought I would mention in case this crosses anyone's mind. A MAF sensor like the one the Corolla uses isn't exactly as simple as putting it in the flow of air and calling it a day. As mentioned, the placement is critical as it relies on the correct flow of air past it. There can be quite a bit of design work involved. When you simply look at it, it may seem completly wrong, but from a technical perspective, it may actually work more efficiently. For example, by reducing the diameter of the pipe, you can change the pressure of air before and after the reduced section which in turn can increase the velocity of the air. This can aid towards an efficient intake. I really don't know physics all that great, but I'm sure the design is not as stupid as it looks.

Oh man, the day is getting so close. I'm excited like a kid before Christmas. ... I'm also somewhat nervous. I can't wait though.

Love the wheels. I so wish I had the money to burn on a set of those. When I saw the first couple of photos, I was like 'WTF did he do to the roof and bonnet'. Then I saw the car behind it being the same. Never really seen anything like that before. Guess I've never seen a car stored in a lot like that.

I wouldn't trust them on either. That said though, street for me would be more stressful than the track. See here in Queensland, we have a place called Mt. Nebo where I like to drive So in that respect, my negativity is based on putting them though quite a bit. But for general lowering purposes, then I don't really have anything against it.

I'll be there. It seems like ages since I've last been to a meet.

So a question to those that have this problem, do you get the knocking noise when your you first tap your accelerator once the car is stationary or rolling really slow? I have noticed a knocking that is getting slightly more noticeable over the last month. I primarily notice it when there is that initial weight transfer from front to rear at low speeds. Also at low speeds, going over slight bumps can create this knocking sounds. I also get that light knocking sound when turning the wheel (quick test is to test the free-play in the steering wheel when stationary by lightly moving it side to side) at slow speeds. I know the last one I mentioned there ties in with this intermediate shaft spline, but I don't know if the issue I mentioned above that can tie into it somehow as well. My car is currently in for its 75,000km service with Toyota and I have mentioned the issue to them as well. My once perfect Aurion is now showing up all these issues. I must say it did seem to take a while given how much I like to give it a push.

One thing that is inconclusive but potentially something to think about as well, could anyone think of a way that a a clogged air filter can create come abnormal knocking noise in the engine? Yesterday after I had mentioned the problem, I started the engine while still close to operating temperature and it made the same sound, but slightly more agressive. The noise didn't sound so good, so I stopped the engine and visually inspected what I could. Found noting except the air filter was REALLY REALLY dirty (thank you road works). It seriously looked like even I couldn't breathe though it that well. Anyways, I had a spare one here so I changed it over. Started the engine again... no rattle. Go for a drive, car actually felt like it had a little more grunt to it... probably just my head. Go out to movies, when I come back again, start car (1/6 way up on temp gauge)... no rattle. Go home, start car today... no rattle. Sounded just perfect. Again, did some work today, and when finished, started the engine again (completely cooled down)... no rattle. Not a really conclusive test since it is now at the dealer for a service, but just something else to think of. Don't exactly know the dynamics of how it could possibly be linked, but maybe one thing to think about.

I originally called them a budget coilover (implying low quality) but then edited my post so as to not stir things up. I figured saying mid-range would would sound more pleasing. I personally wouldn't trust them.

In most conditions you should leave overdrive on. It's only usually used when you are towing something or carrying a heavy load. By turning overdrive off, you prevent the gearbox from selecting an overdrive gear ratio (output speed faster than input speed) which in turn will put less stress on the gearbox when it is heavily loaded. It is also handy as well when you are going a bit of hill climbing so that it doesn't shift to the highest gear and as a result, won't keep upshifting/downshifting all the time.

Yeah, I'm definitely not a fan of those lights... and the rear of that car for that matter.

LOL. All good. Good for laughs though. Not much more to the thread anyways. Kinda just limited to dealers and wreckers... and people with access to the back of a truck.

A couple of Aurion guys have tried out the BC Racing coilovers. They seem to be fairly durable and perform alright for a cheaper Taiwanese brand. I haven;t heard too much about them to make a complete judgement. The way I see them personally are as a mid-range quality coilover and is not something I would consider myself given the way I drive my car. That is my own opinion though. If your car is going to be subject to some harsh conditions, I wouldn't really be skimping on quality just to save some money, because in my eyes, safety comes first. Of course, my opinion was based on a different situation to yours. I personally would have a bad feeling in the back of my head if I got BC coilovers. For just general lowering duties, a coilover like this shouldn't be any problem, but if you plan to take it to the track, it's durability can be questionable. Each to their own really.

Man, this is kinda funny:

So then when you are all 'sporty' and put it into 3rd gear, you are actually just turning over-drive off in the old sense.

That sounds like standard immobiliser behaviour. You usually get like 30-60 seconds to start your car after unlocking it.

Personally I don't see them wearing out in any form of a hurry. They should last for quite a while as long as you give them some good grease. I wouldn't imagine them being too hard to obtain either. Maybe best speak to them about it since I don't think anyone here would have worn their set out already. Luis from Ultra Racing Australia is a pretty friendly guy to speak to.

Probably helps to re-read the first post and then mine: If you get an opportunity, have a look at the tail lights on an AT-X/Presara, then look at the ones on a Sportivo. The Sportivo ones are a slightly darker shade of red. The headlights are also different in that the AT-X/Presara is a brighter shade of chrome.

Aftermarket? Well let's create a scenario. You go to your car and unlock it. If your immobiliser should be armed when the car is unlocked, then how are you meant to start it and drive off. It would be quite annoying if you had to lock your car every time you wanted to start your car. It seems like it's just a simple immobiliser that is made to be armed when the doors are locked. Usually this would also mean it remains armed if the doors are unlocked by means other than the remote or key. If it behaves outside of this... it isn't really doing it's job.

They mainly would have gotten rid of it for simplicity. Try asking a few people out there what overdrive is and does... and when they should use it. Not too many people are aware of it's function, so they just don't bother putting it in for most automatics these days. If you can put your transmission down a gear (ie. you can select 3rd gear on a 4 speed gearbox), then you have essentially 'turned off' overdrive.

Usually if the person who changed it is nice enough, they would have put a sticker on the side cover for it. I used to also write down the odometer reading in pencil on the plastic cover in addition to a sticker just in case. If you can't find any marking, then there isn't much else you can do to tell.

Pretty universal. They may make them in small and large sizes, but the small ones would be what your after. They have a little give in them as well. Maybe just take one out to take with you so you can be absolutely positive you are getting one of the right size.

Thanks for the PM. I'm kinda feeling that way, but I'm thinking that I'll just go straight in and bite the bullet. Just have to make sure I get their new ATL and not their 'ATF' otherwise then I'll be making a serious mistake.... and as long as it doesn't cost a small fortune. I'm more worried about the whole procedure on changing it really. Still haven't figured how I will put the fluid into the gearbox. The service manual shows them using a pump and hose type thing since the filling point is on the vertical face of the gearbox.

So I take it they didn't include new bushes when they supplied your rear sway bar? If not, that's strange since I got a new set with mine. They are basically the same, with the only difference being that the internal cutout would be slightly larger to accommodate the thicker RSB. If you didn't get them with the bar, I'd consider contacting Ultra Racing to see if you can get a set. You can use the stock ones, but it would be better to use new ones.

Never just a simple process when you are talking about an LED tail light from Toyota. Yeah, I learnt the hard way when I put a minor crack in my tail light (long story... caused by subwoofer box). Had to pay $600 (that $540 is minus GST) for a new one. At the moment, there is no aftermarket option. There is that one on eBay, but as you already noticed, it's for a non-Sportivo due to it's lighter shade of red. If you can't find a wrecker with a Sportivo, you may have to cop the cost. Bummer it wasn't the other side cause mine is still useable, just has a slightly higher risk of condensation in the indicator portion... but it would have been a good temporary solution:

You can pick up a bunch of them at Repco and the likes for a couple of dollars. Just ask for 'Christmas tree' clips.