DJKOR

Any puncture on the sidewall of a tire (inside or out) is not repairable.

Great buy mate. I was never a fan of white cars until I had first seen a white Sportivo Aurion.

Maybe it's just my imagination, but this is kinda what it reminds me of: ... And chicken; WTF? Cause I can kind of see the traits of my headlight pattern in there so it seems legit. But that is way out creepy.

That is correct. It is a 31mm festoon bulb. That is the wattage. In layman terms, it's basically the brightness. With 31mm festoon bulbs, you can usually find them in 10W. That will be fine to use. Basically you don't want to go any higher than that because it will produce more heat and is not so friendly on the plastic light assembly. All car bulbs will be 12 volts. It is a 16W bulb with a T10 bulb style base (actually called a T15 bulb). This is what it looks like: If you go to Repco or anything like that, the NARVA product number is '17631'. A 3 minute job. Just take out a few clips that hold the boot lid liner in place and you can then access the bulbs. Something similar to this (first few photos): http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...mp;#entry285229

I don't need to be angry to hit redline numerous times in one drive As for what I did with my car today.... avoided an accident, that's what. Was travelling about 50km/h in a left lane which was a turning lane for a street up ahead. The right lane was standing still. Just my luck, some hopeless b*** thinks it would be wise to move into the left lane as I was approaching. Hit my brakes hard and had the ABS working real hard to get the car to a stop. She decides to stop with her car diagonally across both lanes. My front end stops just before her rear door.

Everyone has their preferences. For example, I would love to get a new set of wheels still in 17 inch.

Looks a little evil (taken from other side of paper):

Tough call eh. It would be best if you can see them first. You want the one that will last the longest given the state they are in. I would suspect number 2 would have gotten a good thrashing.

Very nice man. Now that's genuine JDM.

Tint film for headlights/tail lights go on the outside. If they went on the inside, it would look all wrong. They are pretty durable and would survive most Australian conditions.

I keep getting paranoid every time I subconsciously accelerate sharply or take a corner a bit to quick. I end up coming home and checking my tires for unusual wear. I think that was the result of wearing out my last set of RE001's in 16,000km. These tires have now travelled up to 4000km which is why I get even more paranoid. I'm sure they are alright though: Something is really wrong with me.

Sure am. I just really wish I could have had my suspension completed by then. So brake pads are all changed and had their initial bedding in. The next stage is to continue driving for the next week to let them settle in a little better. So far I have found them to be really good when compared to my last set, the Bendix General CT. Those pads were a bit of a mistake in choice, but there was only so much I could do given the situation. Just as advertised, the QFM (Queensland Friction Materials for those that don't know) HPX pads bite really well when warmed up, but even better is the fact they bite equally as well when cold. When I was bedding them in, I found that after 6 or so aggressive slow downs, they were still working really well, even while giving off some smoke. My previous Bendix would have given up at that time. Now in case anyone may be wondering, the HPX pads are grouped together to be similar but perform better than something like Bendix Ultimates or EBC Greenstuff. The next step up in the QFM range is their A1RM which is grouped together with EBC Redstuff (but better). The reason why I didn't get the A1RM is because it is a more aggressive pad. Considering my Aurion will only see a track once or twice a year, I'd rather sacrifice that little bit of extra stopping power to getting more life out of my rotors. To me, $450+ on rotors is something I don't want to be spending on too often. As for anything else QR related, I had the strangest feeling on Friday before I changed my pads. As I was driving, I was making a turn and all of a sudden I could just feel that the tires were giving out more grip than they had before (with same conditions). It's like they got to that stage in their life where they are now ready for a beating. They have travelled about 3000-4000km since I changed them. Because of that, when I changed my brake pads, I took the opportunity to rotate my tires as well. About all I have left to do is to get my 75,000km service this coming week and then take it to the track. I so can't wait for it. I'm also tossing up whether to put in a transmission cooler this week. My spare time is the only thing limiting me.

That's good to hear. I am a Bridgestone fan myself. The Turanza is an alright touring tire I have found.

My only real suggestion would be to take it apart completely to see if anything is loose and then build it back up again.

There are no 'stock' Aurion coilovers in the sense of coilovers with how most people talk about it. The stock strut on the Aurion is technically coilover suspension though, just to give you perspective. There is practically no camber adjustment to give you more negative camber on the Aurion. The only way to add more camber is to get camber bolts or specialised top mounts. Aftermarket coilovers though usually allow you to adjust your camber so you can get that VIP look you are after.

Ouch man. That looks so painful. I can understand how p*** off you'd be. The accidents that are caused by hopeless drivers are always infuriating.

I will always remain surprised at how you pulled that off without the VSC light flashing to signal that it had detected something different.

I once washed cars for a car rental company. I can move fairly quick. Remember, for that first stage, I'm just using the hose to rinse and apply the clearcoat (which takes about 1 minute) then that gives me 2 minutes for the foam brush to dispense foam. Quite a lot of time IMO. * That is another story.

Changed the brake pads from Bendix General CT (was only thing I had available in a hurry when I desperately needed them) to some new QFM HPX pads. Also rotated the wheels while I was at it. And got a rude shock when I pulled the left rear wheel off. Had a nail stuck in the pit of the tread in the very centre. Had that repaired as well. Then took it to the developing estate around the corner which has road around it in a square layout about 300-400m each side. Just enough to bed in my brakes. Got a bit of smoke coming out from them towards the final stages. Then took it onto the highway just next to it to cool it all off. The difference between these pads and the last set are massive. Can't wait till they have been fully bedded in over the next week before QR. On a side note as a funny story, when I was working on my front brakes and had both hands squeezing hard to push the pistons back, I heard a loud pop sound that gave me a pretty hard shock. Happened to be a paint tin in the corner of the garage that had the sun shining on it. Guess it got some strong pressure inside and it blew the lid off. Not the type of sound I wanted to hear while doing something to the car.

Welcome Tony. We should expect to see you out at our meets now :P : Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday 9pm 8pm)

There is no 'legal limit' with respect to HID colour temperature. Any HID retrofit (HID's in headlights originally made for halogen bulbs) is considered illegal. As for the colour temperature: If you want the best in whiteness and brightness, go for the 5000k, but if you want it with a slight tinge of blue, go for the 6000k. Both are just about as bright, and performance is close to the same, so it's really up to you. If you want more blue than white in the colour, then I would go for 8000k. I would not advise 8000k or higher if you are really after top lighting performance however since it's performance in the rain is crap because blue light doesn't bounce back as well through rain and fog. That said, 8000k HID's still light up road markings and signs really well so even in the wet, these will still remain visible. It's really up to you.

Yup. Gen 6 Camry coilovers are a direct fit for the Aurion. JIN who used to be here put in a set of BC Racing coilovers into his Aurion. These were specified as 06+ Camry coilovers. No issues with fitment whatsoever: Coilover Try out.

Just a stock setup. I knew there wouldn't be much camber adjustment and when I first mentioned it, the guy there said that these are usually already near their maximum. I just said to see what they can do. He came back once they had a look at it and said they might be able to get a little bit more out of it. I said to go for it. As requested (was meant to do this before, but was busy). I really don't understand how it affects it all, but all I can see is the toe being changed... and from testing it out, it definitely feels different. It seems to hold corners better than before and has that feeling of wanting to oversteer. It also feels as if it wants to take the corner sharper than usual; hard to explain the feeling but its like when your walking and someone is pulling your arm to get you to follow them. It is definitely better than before though.

Yay! Looks like I have a job to do tomorrow. Nothing fancy, but something to do nevertheless:

Yeah, I won't be there tonight either. Have some visitors from overseas coming today and will be heading out for dinner tonight with them. I'll be there next week, and I may have to pass on the run depending on how I feel about giving my tires and new brakes some action due to QR being the following Saturday.