DJKOR

I see your wiring looks a little bit different. Most likely due to extra options included with your car. Anyways, that red wire that you are holding on to is the wrong one. That entire plug is the incorrect one. If you look at your third photo, the plug that is directly above the blue plug is the one you will be looking for. After you unplug that, you should easily be able to see the wire that you need. For situations like this, you should get yourself a cheap multimeter. They are really useful when you need to find wires like this. As for the iPod adapter, I didn't need to drill any holes. There is a little cutout at the rear of the glove box that gives access to the pollen filter. You can conveniently route your iPod cable through here and that way it will remain out of sight.

Well I did send a PM using my phone while I was out at the photoshoot, so he would have had my email fairly quick. I guess he must have had a second to spare in the late hours of the evening. I feel special now, hehehe. I can't wait to see the rest though.

A big thank you to Clarence as well from me. Those photos turned out awesome. I can't wait to see everyone elses. A little sneak peak if that's okay:

For the camera, the point where I tapped into the reverse light power at the bulb end, the two wires were red (+) and white with black trace (-). The pink wire still needs to be connected to the reverse light (+12v) as the head unit uses this to activate the reverse camera mode. At the kick panel, I spliced into the wire itself and not directly at the connector. With that little little wiring harness supplied and shown in your attached photo, don't bother putting it in. It is just extra un-necessary wiring that you don't need.

Just done all the finishing touches. Should be good to go. Bottle of quick detailer, a few microfibre cloths, and some silicone spray all packed in and ready. See you all at the loop.

In my opinion, HID's in a reflector housing is just stupid as it will create a fair bit of glare.... but that being said, it never stopped me on my old Camry. I would say if you choose to go ahead with it, go for 8000k. They will still be way brighter than halogen, but a little dimmer than the 6000k so that should partially reduce the massive glare. Despite what others say, the 8000k isn't all that blue. I had 10,000k in my Camry, and they were white enough to not attract police attention. Probably also due to the fact that the kit was a cheap eBay kit and lacking manufacturing standards meant the 10,000k was equal to 8000k.

As crappy as the weather is, I'm still cleaning my car exactly as I would have if it were dry. So far I have just given it a good wash and am waiting for all residual water to evaporate off the car. Then I will give it a good waxing, and while that dries, I will take my wheels off and clean them out well. Then I will clean out the wheel arches, put the wheels back on and buff the car. Then by that time, the matt black on the eyelids should be dry and ready to go on. My colour car is a little less forgiving after a short drive in the wet. The lack of mud flaps means that all the dirty water sprays up the side of the car, and the large area of the bumper pick up even more dirt. A good waxing reduces that from sticking so it is worth the effort. My car may not be the best to take photos of, but I at least want it looking half alright in the photos. So we are meeting at the loop at 6:30pm right?

It sounds like your unit is a little different to mine in terms of wiring since mine had a pink wire for the reverse light power sense, and a blue wire to trigger an amplifier. The camera should be the same though so out of the camera you will have two leads. One is a yellow RCA which connects to the reverse camera video input at the head unit. The other lead is a two-pair which has both red and black wires. These are easiest to connect directly with your reverse lights at the bulb end. This way the camera only comes on when the car is put into reverse. Connecting this is as simple as splicing into the leads that go to the bulb on the boot lid designated for the reverse lights. Alternatively, from the sounds of it, your head unit has the black and red wires there to power your camera. If you want to, you can connect your camera power wires into that, but then you will need to run cables from the front to the back just for the camera power. Connecting them to your reverse lights would be a little more simple. According to the way you described your unit, I would say that on the head unit end, you will only now need the blue wire. This is easiest to tap into the +12v line for the reverse light itself. That's how I did mine except I did it from the passenger side kick panel to save on excessive wiring.

After I posted my reply, then I noticed the link in the signature. There has been a few bots running loose around here with the same link/s in the signature. This new Lisa one appears to have better english now. Another giveaway with this one are the posts in different car threads that are similar.

I have managed to avoid so many cops over the last couple of days. I've even had on two occasions, the cops shake their head at me as a I drove by.

I'm sorry but I can't help you out with the sizes and offsets, but to answer your other questions; yes you can install all those by yourself, but it all comes down to the tools that you have. Most universal mufflers (if not made specifically for your car) will come with bare pipes at the back and no mounting brackets attached. You can attach all this though if you have a welder and can weld decently. However, if you require some modification of the pipework from the rear of the muffler to where it connects to the existing pipe work, you can't really do much yourself there unless you have access to a radius bender (mandrel bends are out of the question for most DIY). Fitting the lowering springs is easy provided you can get your hands on a set of spring compressors. They are a pretty simple device and will get the job done for you. As for fitting the body kit, you can easily do that yourself if you have the tools to remove the existing trim (if required). As long as there are no alignment issues, you would be fine. EDIT: Shame on you spambot. What a waste of my time.

And once again from me, a big thank you Evan. Continuing with our discussion last night, I have decided to keep my eyelids flat black. So far, I've had more people agree with having it like that and not colour coded.

I wasn't having a go at you. I was just showing how we can contribute more to the overall forum community. From that message alone it shows that we were stereotyped just for keeping to ourselves. I was merely just repeating words that were already spoken by others and not myself. I don't like to be stereotyped, and I'm sure others don't like to be either.

My mate told me about that this morning. Such pain just looking at the car in that state.

Well if you are definitely out then Ash, I will jump up a spot and take your place so I can have mine done a little earlier... so I can get to a party afterwards.

The kits are essentially plug and play. The hardest part is finding somewhere suitable to mount the ballast. As for the brands etc, I'm not the best to give advice on that. If you were to ask me, I'd say a $50-$70 kit off eBay would do the trick. They all seem to come out of the same factory anyways. I have never had any issues with cheap kits, so I tend to stick with them.

Depends on how much whiter. You can change to krypton filled bulbs which give a slightly whiter light, but still look yellow in a way. Or you can get the +30% halogen bulbs which give a slightly brighter light which is a little whiter than standard halogen, but the overall colour is still a bit yellow. Alternatively you can put in a super white bulb which are the ones that have a blue coating on the glass surface of the bulb. These turn out fairly white with minimal yellow, but be aware that these bulbs will have a lower light output and tend to be more useless than anything. For that true white look while retaining brightness, your best solution is HID's.

Happy Easter as well to those that celebrate it. I'm just in it for the chocolate since I don't have a religion. On a side note, this thread probably would have been best put in say the "Club Lounge". It isn't really Aurion specific and others should be able to join in on this discussion as well. It is good to participate within the community. It's threads like this that lead to discussions that end with statements like this (wise words from SB I must add):

This is something that we have once pondered on and the results are probably not desirable. In general, I reckon it wouldn't be possible. Unless you want it to purposely look funny.

So will you be at the meet Rowan? I can skip on South Bank then if you are going to be there.

Hey i will be able to make it to the meet tonight =) what time will you be heading to the loop? thanks for offering to drop mine off though, aprriciate it :D I'll aim to be at the loop at 9. If the weather is bad, I'll head to Albion Station.

To Evan: You're a legend. Thanks a lot for organising all this. To ZZR88: If you can't make it to the meet tonight, I can arrange to drop yours off personally if you would like. I just figured that if you can't usually make it to the meet, the timing may not be the most convenient. Just let me know if you want me to.

I would be fine with that as long as it's okay with you. I can just drop my stuff off at the office a little later. Either way, I'll need to in to the office today. Sorry to be a pain, but that's me.

Well I'm heading to Yatala after I arrive since I have equipment to drop off. I'm not phased with a further 30 minutes of driving to go down to Burleigh if you are able to spare a second in your schedule to drop them off to me. I would get there around 4pm if I was to do that though. PM me if you are okay. Sorry, I'm like a kid at Christmas when it comes to things like this. Plus I've got certain arrangements on Friday afternoon/evening that are not easy to pike on, but if need be, I'll see what I can do.

Oh noes. You should never really downshift into first while moving. The only time you should drop into first is when your car is stationary. Otherwise if you are in second and need to accelerate harder, just put your foot down fully and let the transmission drop it if necessary. Most of the time in the situation you have described, the shift will feel pretty rough if you were to do that.