DJKOR

I saw the first photo and thought... 'that is some concept'. I never expected someone to actually go any further than that. Should be interesting to see the end result. Each to their own, but I'm not liking it yet.

I removed it after leaving the rear in the sun for an hour (was parked at the shops before hand). I removed it by then sliding fishing wire underneath. That emblem seemed to stick a little harder than the other emblems I removed. To stick it back, I first tried some double sided adhesive tape from Super Cheap Auto that was made for emblems and looked to be the same stuff, but after a day or two it looked like it may fall off after a month of exposure to the elements. I didn't want to take the risk of it falling off so I removed it again and stuck it back with some clear silicone. It's going nowhere now*. * Now I've said that, it will probably fall off sometime soon then get run over by a car behind me.

In a situation like this, you are always going to get rubberneckers. There is not much you can do about that. One thing that I would like to see is what this reporter would do if presented with the exact same scenario. People say they would do many things, but when the time comes they do nothing about it. I would imagine her to be the type of person who would 'help' in the form of trying to call for help herself. I would do what I could to help out where needed as I hate watching people stand around doing nothing, but I do have physical limits. It all comes down to the situation at hand as well.

I noticed that as well and paused for a second. But if you look at the top, you will see that it says 'TORQUE AT: WHEEL/S'. The transmission amplifies the torque so that you may get some high amount when compared to the torque at the flywheel.

What fuel you use: Primarily Caltex Vortex, switching between Vortex 95 and Vortex 98. Starting to use the 98 more frequently now even though I believe that for a N/A Aurion, there is no gain from using premium above 95 octane. How many Km's you get to a tank: I get about 500km to 550km before my cruising range reaches 0km. After that, I travel on average for an extra 10km to 40km before filling up, usually getting no more than 60 litres into the tank before it is full. What your Avg 100km/L is: According to my manual calculations which will give the most accuracy, I currently average 11.66l/100km and that is calculated after 30,048km of driving. Most of the time, my on-board tank average displays around 11.2l/100km. What sort of driving is this based on: Mostly trips of up to 30 minutes when in no traffic, and between 45 minutes to an hour with traffic. Usually includes a short stretch of highway driving over a distance of about 7km at a speed averaging 110km/h. Lots of start/stop during the time off the highway as I always catch the red lights. About 80% of the time, I will accelerate heavily from a standstill (1/2 to 3/4 throttle in first, then WOT once it changes to second) and almost always go WOT when overtaking. As well, when I drive I have my two front windows down 95% of the time including on the highway. These cars are definitely able to obtain 9.9l/100km economy. Remembering that 9.9l figure they specified is based on combined city and highway driving, so you will obviously get higher or lower depending on how much more travelling you do on either end of the scale. As for what level of city and highway driving Toyota tested with, we will never know really. I have seen my Aurion average 7.1l/100km on a trip from Brisbane to Coffs Harbour and that was with a full manual calculation. This was 95% highway driving with the windows down with an average speed of 110-120km/h. This also involved many stretches of overtaking at speeds of up to 190km/h (windows went up before overtaking). Other notes: My engine oil is Fuchs Titan Super GTO (fully synthetic), 10W30. Mainly it is just me in the car but on occasion, there is only one other person that travels with me in my car. For the first 23,000km of driving, I was on Michelin Energy MXV8's (34 PSI all round), and in the last 7,000km I have had Bridgestone Potenza RE001's (pressures of 36 PSI all round). The tires don't appear to have had any effect on fuel consumption when changed. All my filling records are kept in the following document: Aurion_Fuel_Consumption.xls

Goodies eh? Unfortunately I will be in Canberra at the time and won't be back till the following Thursday, so I won't make it to the meet. Speaking of which, it looks like I will be spending Easter Friday doing some painting. goodies would be for phil i presume.... paining? explain lol When he said goodies, it reminded me that our eyelids will probably arrive in the week that I'm in Canberra. By the time I get back, I will have just one and a half days to paint them.

Goodies eh? Unfortunately I will be in Canberra at the time and won't be back till the following Thursday, so I won't make it to the meet. Speaking of which, it looks like I will be spending Easter Friday doing some painting.

That's hot. It would be so good if your Aurion was that shade of blue in real life Rowan. Very good work Ken.

Because no one has actually attempted to do such a thing, it is just a lot of guessing and may not work even since it's hard to say whether all these would even line up correctly. That said though, with enough money, anything is possible. The way I see it, the list of parts you would need to obtain to do the front and rear are at least: Front: - Bumper - Bonnet - Headlights - Side quarter panels (or custom body work so that the headlights fit) Rear: - Bumper - Boot lid - Tail lights - Possibly some custom body work to the rear quarter panel as there may be variation in the tail lights. Is it really worth spending all that much just to make your car look like another stock car?

If you get an aftermarket head unit which has composite video-in (the yellow RCA socket, preferably with a reversing camera mode), your stock reversing camera can be wired into it. As for maintaining steering wheel controls, most units that are made to be en exact OEM looking replacement (such as the Auspack unit mentioned here) will have the connections so that you may keep your steering wheel controls. Otherwise, if you choose to get an alternative aftermarket double DIN head unit, the only one that has been reported here to work with the steering wheel controls is the Eclipse AVN6000. For the aux-in and iPod cables, you can easily route them to where ever you want. I chose to run mine into the glove box where it is out of the way. Sound quality wise, the Auspack unit sounds just about equal to the stock unit and I'm sure other OEM looking replacements will be the same. Getting a double DIN unit such as the Eclipse however would more than likely give you a better sound quality than stock, especially when paired with some new speakers.

Do it Evan!!! You said that it would look good... you photoshopped it and it looks good.... put them on and it will be even better. You need to call Dave ASAP; no questions asked.

I won't be able to make it to this one guys. Hope you have a great drive while I'm stuck in Canberra.

That is correct. Apparently it can run for 160,000 kms without ever requiring a top up or change. Provided that it is not abused, there should be no reason why they wouldn't be able to stand up to that claim. With respect to the transmission flare, I don't think that it creates any issues while driving which is why Toyota may not be so fussed as to fixing it. It doesn't make the shifts any rougher and probably does not put any extra strain on the gearbox.

I'm still wondering how much longer the factory shocks are going to last. Hopefully by the time they do blow, there will be aftermarket replacements made to go with lowering springs. i worry about that everytime i drive it....how do you know when they are going out? In your case, I'm fairly sure you will know when they are gone, or getting really close to... especially in the rear. Visual signs are oil leaking from the strut, and excessive bounciness when you push down firmly and releasing one of the struts. While driving you may notice it bottoming out more and hitting the bump stop, and it may feel a little more bouncy after going over a bump. Also as well, if they are stuffed, braking hard will cause more nose dive, and accelerating hard from a stop will certainly feel a little different.

The Aurion has been out for quite a while with still no fix. I get the feeling that it is not going to change any time soon as well. All I can imagine is a lengthy ordeal with no beneficial outcome.

This was just a mate's place. Funny thing is, nearly all my mates have some driveway along these lines. Mine has better clearance though and can take it full of passengers. I would hate to see the effects of taking that driveway with people in the rear seats. I'm still wondering how much longer the factory shocks are going to last. Hopefully by the time they do blow, there will be aftermarket replacements made to go with lowering springs.

You would be looking at a T-Rex.

Stories like these steer me away from lowering my car. Practicality or looks. It can be a tough decision sometimes. That said, you don't put 20's on and tell yourself that you won't lower it. So once the 20's are on, you are going to have to live with the lowering decision. I don't think I can go lower: On the topic of lowering, if you got serious money to spend these would be the ideal solution if you are after a massive drop while minimising damage that can happen: Air Force Suspension

Damn that turbo sounds sweet. Sounds better than a jet on a plane.

Welcome to the club as well. A white TRD Aurion is a bit of a rare sight. I've seen only one before, and damn it looked hot. Yeah I saw that thread about removing the bumper bar. Had a look the engin bay, head lights conversion shouldn't be too hard, but not sure about the fog lights. Installing HID's on the Aurion, TRD or no TRD is simple and there is no need to remove the bumper. I fitted HID's to SecaBoy's TRD and they are a perfect fit.

For the sake of the question, for the body kit, the clearances at their lowest points: Front lip - 205mm Rear lip - 210mm Side skirt - 180mm But Rowan is right in saying this: Most of the stuff underneath the car sits much lower than the body kit.

Well if you take a measurement of yours and post the figures here, I'll get measurements of mine. Then you can work out the difference.

On behalf of the Aurion guys here, I would like to say farewell. It was great having you around and thank you for starting a line of communication with the guys over in Thailand.

are they 2 piece? I think because of the way it's shaped and due to the shadow on it, it appears as a two piece. Looking at the bottom part of where the dip in it is, it seems like it is a one piece. Maybe it's because of the colour it was painted.

One other thing that can cause the clicking noise although probably not in your case is the indicator return mechanism. It's just like a plastic ring with notches in it. If something goes funny there, that can cause a clicking sound when turning. In this case though, it most likely is caused by the spiral cable. As for changing it, if you do feel confident, the process is quite simple. As long as you disconnect your battery and wait at least 90 seconds before removing the cable, it's just as simple as unplugging the old cable and plugging the new cable in. I can't gauge though how comfortable you would be at doing such a thing though considering it does share your airbag wiring.