DJKOR

Due to requirements here, I need to have this job in Darwin complete by the 20th of March. I will definitley be back in Brisbane for any of those dates. Count me in.

I think you will find that she has turned 19. I'm guessing that sketra has some kind of meaning with her name from the way I can see it. I thought you would know how to MySpace stalk people Will (not that I do that ). Oh yeah.... Happy 19th Birthday Sara. May your last year as a teen bring many fun days.

Unfortunately in this case, those instructions would be of no use unless he buys another camera.

You will find that with that wireless system, the camera and monitor are paired and you will not be able to output the video to an external head unit. Unless of course the monitor part has an RCA video out (which I highly doubt it has due to practicality), or you hack up the monitor.

I think you are talking about hydrogen... if helium was flammable, the Goodyear blimp would be a potential Hindenburg.

Just to make sure, you meant Nitrogen right? You would be better off putting just normal air in your tires if you were thinking of putting helium in them. For road/everyday use, nitrogen would not be worth the extra money in my opinion.

Any thumbnail pictures of mine, you just need to click on them to enlarge. As for the wiring itself, the process is that simple that I'm not sure if I can even write up a decent guide. This is about the best I can do... I'm not good with giving instructions. Along the floor of the car, there are a few different grommets here and there leading from the inside to the outside of the car. I simply had a look under the car to gauge where one of them were then I removed the rear seat and folded the carpet to the side a little. Then I poked a hole in the grommet and fed the wiring through here. Afterwards I just cable tied the wiring to the park brake cable running nearby. This is for mine which is mounted just under the passenger seat area: Then on the inside, I ran the cabling along the door sill all the way to the front cigarette lighter socket and hard wired it into the rear. For this application, there was just enough cable to do all this. If you want to mount it further back, you will need to extend the length of the cable a little.

I still refer to them as racing stripes regardless. It's hard to say what the end result would look like in person without trying. Makes it just a little bit tough. One reason why the Foz looked alright was because the car itself is a bit boxy. Racing stripes/GT Stripes in my opinion work better on cars with sharp straight lines. The Aurion on the other hand is a little bit curvy. Mixing that with straight likes may not be the best. Just my opinion as I've said. I've been proven wrong before.

Now that's a good prank. I'll keep that one for future reference. I'm going to detail my car this afternoon and pull the front rim off and hopefully find something. Hopefully it's not a sign of something about to break. LOL. I've only heard of like one or two cases of an upgraded alarm, so good luck on that. You should probably also extend your questiono over to the Gen 6 Camry owners. Otherwise, it may be worth inquiring with Toyota. I'm not even sure if Toyota sell the beeper module as a separate spare part as it is integrated into the headlight. It would be interesting to remove the thing though as its wired up inside the headlight:

I would go for the black roof. This is mainly because I don't think racing strips would suit the Aurion and I've seen what a black roof on an Aurion looks like. Just my opinion though.

That's a bit expensive to install it. If you have the cut out, all a muffler shop needs to do is to cut a small section out and weld the cutout in. Cost me like $30 in labour to have it fitted. Wiring, if you don't do it yourself, should not cost too much either. After having it for five months now, all I can say is that it is cheap and dodgey, but does the job of increasing the noise just like removing the rear mufflers. It hasn't had any issues with it's operation, and the only problem I have come across is the occasional scrape on a steep surface. I could have easily overcome that by mounting it further back, and I would highly suggest putting it close to the rear muffler split to avoid this. The sound it makes after the resonator is very smooth and at first seems loud (well it did for me), but in comparison to other cars out there, it is actually pretty quiet. I mainly got it because at the time the US dollar was nearly 1 for 1. I was cheap at the time. Now that I'm starting to get a little more money and I have been quite satisfied with the sound of the engine with everything after the resonator dropped, I'm going to put get something much more 'professional'.

I can see where you are getting at with that one. You are probably best to discuss that with Toyota directly as they know their own product better. You would think in this scenario that you shouldn't need to pay an excess as that stolen good replacement should fall together with the windscreen replacement, but you never really know. It wouldn't seem logical to charge you an excess, butt if they can catch a sucker... they would.

If you have fast reflexes you should be fine. It's a risk to take though if you choose to go that way. You may got a hot drop or two splashing onto you. It's not bad. From a cold start, between 5-10 minutes is alright. Now my stupid question. I have a clicking sound that is dependent on speed. It sounds exactly like a stone in my tire, but I have looked all over and found no stones or nails. I once had this issue in the past where a twig was jammed in the brake calliper assembly and was clicking against the balancing weights on my rim, but not in this case. I've had a good look over and couldn't find anything getting in the way. Has anyone else had symptoms like this before and is there anything simple but not obvious to look for?

Having the oil anywhere between warm and hot is a good temperature to drain it. Oil will flow much better when it is hotter and you will be able to drain it a little bit quicker like that. That said, when I have the time, once I remove the sump plug, I go sit down and relax for an hour while the oil remains dripping out. Always good to get as much out as you can. As for avoiding burns, what I do is loosen the sump plug until oil starts to leak out. Then carefully turn it further till it leaks out even quicker. Then I get a bit further away and use the spanner or a long screwdriver to tap the sump plug on the edges to try and knock it loose.

My opinion, gold rims on a white Aurion don't have a really classy feel to it. I'm a person that likes silver though, so my response is a little biased. If you want to be different... then go for it. Everyone sees things differently and you may see gold rims on a white Aurion as a perfect match. If you like it, that's what should count. Seriously... WTF man. I haven't haven't said anything on this thread and you are already having a go at me. Anyways, my posts in return to your previous questions may have been sarcastic, but I did answer the question that you asked. How is that useless? In those posts that I have posted links to other threads, I took extra time and searched for those threads for you. Once again, how is that useless. Sure I may be sarcastic, but I did provide an informative response to help you out. Just because an answer has sarcasm in it, it doesn't mean it is useless. Just chill man. Flaming me when I wasn't even around and involved in this thread is just asking for an argument. And good luck on the search for double threads from me. You will find that I answer many questions and ask few.

Not the TRD! Just reading about that accident is painful. I hope they get it back on the road again soon and that it drives like new again.

DIY install FTW.... LOL.

Combining your speaker and subwoofer amp into one is alright if you are just after the perfect balance of low, mid, and high range audio, but if you are really after some booming bass (eg. you want to feel the bass and you want it to hit strong), you are better off getting two separate amps. An amp which has a high power output for the sub channel can get quite pricey.

$245 definitely seems too high. I've had a windscreen replaced on my old Camry not very long ago for about $110. I can't quite help you out there as I'm not aware of your area. It's finally good to see the progress on the car. The bonnet looks quite good; better than I expected. I love that freshly painted look as well.

8.5 inches in width being too big? You have even posted replies in threads by ELEGNT (Rowan) and SecaBoy (Ashley). Both of them mentioned in their first post that their rims are 20 inches diameter by 8.5 inches width. They never said anything about being too wide. If the width was an issue, I'm sure they would have mentioned that as having rims too wide would be a constant issue. BONDIE has even mentioned that his rims have a 8.5 inch width. Depends on the tire you get. I would highly suggest looking at this site: http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp

I was going to say such a thing but then kind of understood where he was getting at. I think Azza didn't understand whether moving to 20 inches will require a different offset. As we know, your rims usually get wider when you get a larger diameter, and maybe this means that you need to decrease offset to move the rims out further. If he's not aware, the TRD rims are 8 inches in width and keep the +35mm offset. If he gets a set of 8.5 inch width 20 inch rims, the +35mm offset will be fine as well. Changing the offset though can sometimes affect handling, etc. I would highly suggest doing some research on that Azza. At the same time though, if I was to ask the question I would have mentioned that I was aware the stock rims are +35mm offset and that I was wondering if the offset needs to be different than stock. The wording on the question does make it seem like yet another answered question I must say though. It all comes down to how it's asked.

Well I was thinking of a surprise appearance but then I figured, who would I even surprise, LOL. My work here in Coffs Harbour appears to be one day ahead of schedule so I should be leaving here at about 3pm tomorrow. Thanks to daylight savings, that means 2pm Brissie time so I should easily make it there for the meet.

The remote starter itself is very simple to install in any car. The only thing that makes it hard on the Aurion and other new cars is trying to get around the immobiliser. There is a bypass kit though that is made to do just that though. As for that accident, it's accidents like that which lead to mods like these becoming illegal.

I'm not aware of anyone here that has gone that route yet. If you do you are going to have to get a bypass kit to override the factory immobiliser. For the Aurion though, there is no real need for a remote starter since it is fairly quick to warm up and the AC/heater kicks in pretty quick.

I must say, I do love that front end. I've said it before, but that front section is screaming for a nice long intercooler. I do love the revision of the headlights as well and the subtle colour matching of the trim next to the mirror. Not so keen on the tail lights though.