DJKOR

If it does the same thing after you turn the car off and start it again, I would highly suggest to go see your Toyota service department. This indicated that something to do with the SRS system is not 100% and for your own safety, should be investigated;.

It's that useless it can't even hold gears. It just limits the maximum gear. I really wish it did hold gear because sometimes you just want to put your foot down a little more without it dropping a gear.

I should still be around Brissy around that time so any day will be fine.

Lines? Just an update on the pics. Here are a couple with it on. Edit: The emblem has finished drying after six coats of clear. The end result:

Just an update on this issue that was driving me nuts. Because I have been travelling, I haven't had time to check this out. Now that I'm back, I've been searching everywhere to try and find what the issue is. I can definitely say that it was coming from the front drivers side, so that's where I narrowed my search to. I was getting it while going straight and my CV boots were looking good so I was hoping that this wasn't the issue. It also only occurred at above 90km/h which made the search a little interesting. So today I removed all the centre caps... no luck. Then I thought while I was at it and it was about the right time, I would rotate the tires from front to back. I checked the tires as well and they had absolutely nothing stuck in them. I went for a drive and noticed that the clicking moved from the front to the rear of the car. After previously checking the rim for anything that stood out, I remembered that the only thing on there was a small balancing weight that hangs from the side (example shown below). Hoping this was the issue, I stopped over at Bridgestone up the road and they quickly removed the weight for me. ... Problem is now solved.

Tayota eh? They'll know the switch. You seem to be saying in nearly all your replies to take it to the guys there. A bit of a generic response don't you think, especially for Xtra Trak who just wants to know where his radiator cap is in his '98 Tarago. Of course one can ask Toyota, but sometimes you can get better responses from people here.

So... I jumped onto the bandwagon and painted my engine cover as well. Actually, I was just focussed on painting the rear emblem, but figured that since I will have a bit of paint spare, I will do the engine cover while I'm at it. I was going to go for a metallic black, but finally settled on a metallic dark grey with a tint of purple in it. Both are currently still drying at the moment so I will take photos of it all in place tomorrow. As it stands in these pics, they both have six layers of paint and two layers of clear coat, with another two to be applied. And yes... I do notice that I forgot to cut out the middle of the 'A' in 'DUAL'. I realised this once I started the clear coat. My bad. This is what it looked like after one layer of paint. I actually liked this effect, but oh wells:

Don't forget me... 1. ELEGNT - Brisbane 2. DJKOR - Brisbane 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Well I'm currently at Darwin airport waiting for my flight back to Brissy. I will definitely be at the meet tonight then.

All grades of Aurion do not come with an AUX in. I'm not sure about the Camry though. In the States, the Gen 6 Camry does have the option for AUX in, but I'm not sure if that applies over here.

I sure am keen about this.

4) It doesn't hold gears. I'm getting a little deja vu with this thread.

There is currently a set on eBay for $400 without tires. I've seen a set on there before with tires with a starting bid of $500 and I don't think those sold. They don't seem so popular.

From this quote, I think YOU should have a look at a cannon Varex before you try and talk about it's specifications. I have seen one in person and I can correctly state that the bypass outlet is approximately 1 inch.

LOL. That was a quality ad. How the hell did you come across that anyways?

Wow... this topic is starting to go a bit overboard. Every time I see Varex in a thread, there is always some argument going on. Who cares whether one person decides to get a Varex or not. It's your own car... do what you want. Some people want extra performance (that is guaranteed), others just want something that sounds nice or loud. Myself; I want something that sounds good, but there are times that I don't want that extra noise. That's why I got the Varex. I definitley don't want a car that is always quiet, and I don't want a car that is always loud. I have a street car. I'm not fussed about getting any more kW out of it. If I do; what am I going to legally do with it without going onto a track? Overtake cars quicker? Wait... you can only legally overtake at the maximum speed limit for the area, so that excuse is not valid. As for the legality discussion, why does everyone have to be so picky. If you're not the one with the 'illegal' muffler, why bother whining about it? It's not your money or licence. To be honest, I don't really care about this $75 on the spot fine and whatever. I might worry about it when I get busted, but even still. I drive illegally every day by speeding and have had a ticket or two. Is that stopping me? I think not. I jaywalk all the time as well... I don't need anyone to lecture me about waiting for the green light to say it's safe to cross. I don't mean to be rude or anything; I just don't understand why people have a problem with someone else changing something on their car and getting no extra performance out of it or whether then run a higher chance of getting a fine. Each person is welcome to spend/waste their money however they want. It's their loss, not yours.

I was always under the impression that they were a +35mm offset. I know the Gen 5 Camry's were +42mm offset, but I don't know if the Aurion has the same. An interesting note, the Kappa rims which are an option for the Aurion come in +45mm offset. Hmmm. Just looking at the wheel though, a +45mm offset seems more correct though. I guess I'll take out the tape measure next time I remove my rims.

Along that topic, I have been on the Toyota Nation forums a bit and there are a couple of clean Camry's owned by 'Paul' (formerly Princess Peach), and 'gene112601' (who is now returning to stock). Would be good if the V6 could be done as easily.

Which is also why I'm putting the Varex on mine. I am not too keen to spend a large amount of money to squeeze whatever more power I can get out of my Aurion (which will probably take a bit because the ECU on ours seems to adjust itself fairly good) but just obtaining an engine note that sounds more like what it should. The thing with my Aurion is that no matter the exhaust, it has that sweet spot around 2500-3000 RPM. I live in a neighbourhood that has a fair few older people and the area has a few hills that I need to go up to get home. Having a loud exhaust late at night is not very friendly to everyone and there is no way I can idle up the hills. As much as I wouldn't mind a performance exhaust, the extra full time noise will not be acceptable for me.

The unit mentioned in this thread (AVC-6901), will only fit in the late 06+ Camry's and Aurion's. For your Camry you can fit a standard double DIN head unit with the use of an appropriate mounting kit as the stock unit is wider than a double DIN unit.

Um... alright.

No worries. This question COULD be suited for the 'Audio/Video/Electronics' thread, but it is also suitable to be asked here as it is more likely to be noticed especially since the Aurion section is a bit of a smaller percentage. You do have the option of becoming a Silver Member, but apart from that, you should have no issues posting a new thread as a free member.

Yep, that was me that you were recalling. It was in the thread 'Headlight'. In my opinion, I would only adjust my headlights if it definitely is out of whack. Being a little out is okay by me so long as it isn't glaring other road users. The headlights are aimed by a machine in factory and sometimes it is hard to replicate this with your own adjustments. As well, one of the adjustment screws (which is the critical up and down adjustment) is a tough one to access unless you have the appropriate tools: I'm not sure if the Presara HID assembly has the same adjustment screws though.

An amplifier wiring kit should have everything you need inside, but I usually steer away from these. I usually like to get everything individually and not in a pack, but that's because I am all DIY with my electrical stuff. So when it comes to wiring up a subwoofer (with the amplifier in the boot), the basics you will need are: - Approximately 4 to 5 metres of power cable. Doesn't hurt to have spare, so 5 metres should be sufficient. 0.5 metres of this will be used for your amplifier to ground. It's also good to have extra since sometimes you need to run the cable a little different to plan and may need that extra length. - 1 x 5AG fuse holder and fuse (40A would be good) - 5 metre length of stereo RCA lead - Approximately 5 metres of thin gauge wire (normal speaker wire will do), to provide the turn on voltage for the amplifier. - A few ring and spade/fork terminals for connecting to battery, ground, and amplifier. - 10 gauge speaker wire (whatever length you need to get from amp to sub) As for the gauge of wire, 8 gauge will be sufficient for you at the moment and if you were to run a maximum of 5 metres of it, you will be able to power up to 700W RMS and that is on the safe side. If you only used 4 metres of it (which is more realistic in your case), it could easily take 900W.

My opinions Rowan... if you end up painting your engine cover, don't get your SRI in chrome or anything bright that stands out. You would need to make your engine bay more shiny for chrome to blend in nicely. Even with the silver engine cover, chrome is a little too bright. I would personally suggest having your SRI a matt black or similar colour. It will have a subtle look to it, but you will definitely see it's there.