DJKOR

The Toyota Aurion does use a CAN bus communication (ie. twisted pair digital communication) system for various modules in the car. When it comes to the headlights though, there is no system in place to detect whether a headlight or tail light has blown and/or gone open circuit for any reason. Using any HID ballast will not disturb the electrical system in the Aurion.

You will not need a ballast if you plan to change the bulb for another halogen bulb (ie. 12v 55W etc.) If you want to put HID's in, you WILL need to have a ballast because those HID lamps can't run straight of 12v). In this situation, you are best getting a HID conversion kit which comes with the ballasts and lamps.

You need a little more information with that. I would assume from the title that he wants to put HID's in his car. To do that, he will need both a HID lamp AND a ballast. Usually the ballasts are sold with the lamps, so when it comes to suggesting types/brands, it can be a bit broad. Most aftermarket HID conversion kits for standard headlights (ie. H3 mounting) will come with a standard style of high voltage connectors commonly referred to as AMP connectors: As for where to get them from, I'm probably not the best to ask because if I were to answer that, I would say eBay.

I got both of the oval Varex mufflers for $700 with free delivery (had it sent up with something else which I didn't have to pay for). Yeah I know this isn't going to give me more performance or any of that stuff. I don't see too much point in making this car any quicker for the road. I'm just satisfied with the way that my car sounds minus the rear mufflers because the resonator does a really good job. I also can't live with a car that is louder than stock 24/7, even if it's only by a small amount.

Maybe it's time to resurrect the thread that goppy tried to get going. It didn't seem to take off very well: exhaust note

Nice way to clean up the engine bay. I was thinking of paining mine in the same colour that one of the guys over in the States did his (though his is more matching with the colour of his car): http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=253413

Well if the screeching is on a normal road surface, it can possibly be an alignment issue. Depends on the extent of the screeching. It never hurts to get a wheel alignment check-up though. I would suggest to tell your service department to make sure they DON'T do an alignment, and then find another suspension mob to check it out for you. I'm not sure of who to suggest in your area, but if you were in Queensland, I would highly recommend Fulcrum Suspension.

I find that the Aurion does screech when turning on a smoother surfaces a little more than other cars. Of course you will get screeching in car-parks and similar, but the Aurion does seem to do it more easily. Nothing to worry about there.

The best way is to open the 'Data.zip' file, navigate to 'ui_igo8/480_234', delete the 'loading.bmp' and replace it with new bmp making sure it is named 'loading.bmp'. If in install was done by the book, the ground sense wire should be connected to the park brake. If the video does not come on when the park brake is engaged, then this step wasn't completed correctly. It's not just you. There are a couple of issues at the moment. Read about it here: Umm.....somehting wrong with this forum?

where can i get those chrome grill? He is where I got mine. http://www.rstyleracing.com/?CategoryID=Ca...080120220806981 That would be correct for us as well. BONDIE ordered his from there together with the mesh sports grills. Instructions on our ordering process can be seen in the FAQ's here.

Well it's about time to revive this thread that has gone a little quiet. Since this is where all the discussion was starting, I may as well continue it here. It may not be late February anymore but regardless, the time has come for me to purchase a front strut bar and rear sway bar. If anyone in Brisbane wants to order anything from Ultra Racing with me, just let me know. I will end up getting it regardless of discount or not (I'm not fussed), but I am just letting you guys know so that if you were planning on getting something, you may save a little money. Shipping can easily be divided as I am able to deliver around the Brisbane area. You would be looking at the following prices approximately (prior to group buy discount): Front strut bar - $218 Front 4-point brace - $248 Rear sway bar - $323

Personally I don't think the chrome is meant to go with the TRD bumper. Each to their own though.... that's just my personal opinion. TRDLover: Around here, the sports grill is the other name used for the mesh grill. ApBPaul may have ment something different, but from the discussion that has been going on, the mesh grill would most likely be the one being referred to here.

MY EYES!!!

Rowan knew it would be worth taking it against that background. If there wasn't a van parked half-way across it, the photos could have been much better.

Oh no! That's more than a full system right there! Still going to get the other bits fixed up with us? You know me... I'm pretty stubborn. When I make my own plans, I tend to stick to them. I always wanted Varex, and now that I have the money to spare, I bought them. It may cost a bit, but at the moment my income is coming in pretty strong. I've got more than enough to spend on extras for myself... and that's after putting some aside for savings. I may put the front exhaust section on hold for a bit longer. I don't think fixing it while my Aurion is N/A will provide any benefits ;). Not that I've got any plans or anything.

Nah, I'm in Darwin at the moment... possibly until next Friday. I have placed my order now though so that by the time I get back, I just need to go have them fitted. I will be doing quite a bit of travelling over the next couple of months or so which means I won't be at many meets like usual. On the other hand, I'm getting a good boost into the mod savings. Time to slowly recover.

Did you not read the fourth post? Blind Kid Seeks answered the question in his first sentence: You can keep trying all you want to on you ZRE, but you're never going to hit lift. The only thing you will hit is redline.

It's a yearly membership. Mine expires in July, but despite the exchange rate, I will still continue to support the club.

Thanks guys for the comments. I am bound to update this fairly soon with a couple of additions. It feel nice to have my thread pushed to the more recent list once again. Well, the day was October the 7th 2008. The long story can be seen here: I need to vent The short story is best summed up with these photos:

Damn. It's hard to think that when I got mine, I got the stainless steel pipe with mine as well and I got it for a good price thanks to the 0.99 exchange rate at the time. Good luck with the auction. In other news, one I get back to Brissy, I'm going to get my cutout... cut out. Why? Because I just bought myself two Varex mufflers.

no i think there good but they are loud, at 100 fairly load, around corners dont loose traction but are loud, braking is great and so is traction on acceleration, but for 30 profile they are reasonably soft so the ride isnt that harsh. Also alot of people said they last ages so time will tell. BUT...they are the only tires in 30 profile that complies with that load rating on the aurion, otherwise i would have gone another brand They are loud cause there a performance tyre and is road directional you will find most of them are loud. I don't think I would call Nankang a performance brand tire. They also aren't noisy due to its directional properties. What makes it noisy is that it is a hard compound tire. This would equate to being less grippy but longer wearing, in which I can say the Nankangs definitely do last. A performance tire will most likely have a softer compound and typically (but not always) as a result, have less road noise. That's pretty good. I thought you would run into issues when your front wheels are turned to full lock. That should give you some serious grip then.

My old Camry had a similar issue. When in drive it would have a vibration to it but when shifted into Neutral or park it would go away. As well if I left it in Drive and had one foot on the brake, pressing the accelerator slightly to up the revs by a couple of hundred would stop all the vibration. It turned out that I had a busted engine mount. Another thing to look at is the level of oil in your automatic transmission. This can potentially introduce unwanted vibration when the levels aren't right.

Welcome to the club. The AT-X ain't no 'Poverty Pack' mate (I know it was a joke, but still). In my opinion, no Aurion can be styled up as good as the AT-X. BONDIE was a good example of that. You've got the right ideas there. Those grades scream for large rims, lowering springs, and tint.

I'm pretty sure the ZR6 and Presara don't have adjustable height on the passenger seat. It does make sense though as only the driver is the one who truly needs it. But this was just from my own reading of the specifications on Toyota's site: Driver's seat - Power operated - Driver's seat power slide adjustment - Driver's seat power tilt backrest - Driver's seat power height adjustment - Driver's seat power 2 way cushion tilt - Driver's seat power lumbar adjustment Front passenger's seat - Power operated - Front passenger seat power slide adjustment - Front passenger seat power tilt backrest - Front passenger seat power lumbar adjustment

My opinion... great photos Michael. Thanks so much for driving out and taking them. Gotta love the Red, White, and Blue. Hehehe. My other opinion... damn I need new rims and I need to lower it stat. Shuddup. Just rub it it why don't you. Hehehehe. Actually, now that I've been paid... and quite an amount... I'm thinking of booking it in for some new springs when I get home.