DJKOR

Well... good to see you found the answer to your problem.

You guys should search the Aurion forum for "VVT-i rattle". You may learn a thing or two about the cause of this.

It certainly sounds like it doesn't it.

For the headlight assembly itself, a 2007 model assembly would most likely set you back around $400 each and that's without any lamps or ballast. If you want to get a Toyota genuine HID ballast and lamp, be prepared to add another $400 per side for the ballasts and $350 for a pair of lamps. In that case though, you can easily save money by getting an eBay kit for around $50-$100 a pair, but it will just mean you need to mount the ballasts a little different to the factory layout.

The air filters on cars these days tend to be reasonable flowing as they are so changing out for a K&N reusable filter should not affect your fuel economy in either direction. Your driving style afterwards will determine that however. How much money have you got? A pair of headlight assemblies aren't exactly cheap.

I'm going to quote the man himself... pay attention to the first paragraph in particular: King Spring Super Lows NORMAL?

I don't run it dry so to speak. Looking at my trends (TRD_Fuel_Consumption.xls), I tend to fill up with about 8-12 litres left in the tank. Personally, the only issues I imagine would be burning out the pump since it relies on the fuel to keep it cool. But this would only be a big issue if I let it run completely dry which I don't. As for picking up all the bad stuff in the fuel, the pump collects the fuel from the bottom anyway so I wouldn't imagine it being much worse than leaving the car sit overnight then starting it in the morning after all the sediment (if any) has settled at the bottom. Besides, there is a fuel filter for a reason.

Yeah boi!

I'm no expert on the subject, but I thought your shock adjustment should have nothing to do with the way the car sits. That all lies within the springs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong though.

Flimsy eh? I'm sure if you drove your car without it you would think otherwise. The rear sway bar relies on torsional strength so just because it may feel lighter and thinner in comparison to the new one, doesn't mean it's weak.

Conveniently I had to go for a drive earlier and since I was already just below 1/4 of a tank on the gauge, I figured I will take some notes for the purposes of this thread. For this tank, my driving distribution was about 75% city and 25% highway compared to my usual 60/40 split: This was a couple of kilometres after the fuel light came on: And this was within a kilometre of the "Cruising Range" reaching 0km: When I fill tomorrow, I will post the total distance travelled and the litres used. But basically all this means is that what you are getting is not unusual.

On a side note, I need someone more experienced to comment here but I have heard things along the lines of "you should not fill your fuel to the brim". This is to do with the charcoal canister that is responsible for taking care of the fuel vapour in the fuel tank. By overfilling it, you can make fuel flow into the charcoal canister and wearing it out quicker. But that's just what I heard. I can't comment as to whether this is accurate or something that should really be considered. Either way, the way I fill my tank is to wait till the first click then pull the nozzle out. Wait 15-20 seconds and then put the nozzle back in, pump till it clicks again, and then round the cents figure. When I fill this way, I will typically get about 1-1.5 litres of extra fuel in the tank after the first click. It may not be precise measurements, but by following the same standard, I can make sure my fuel usage calculations are somewhat comparable to each other. Edit: Also, this is just personal opinion, but the fact you use BP Ultimate doesn't exactly mean you will have better fuel economy. Everyone thinks that higher octane just equates to more power (and in turn equates to better fuel consumption) but I tend to think differently. Your octane rating is essentially the fuel's "resistance to igniting due to compression" (ie. knocking/pinging) and I believe that it doesn't really matter unless you are redlining your engine all the time. So realistically, premium unleaded should not improve your fuel economy under normal driving conditions.

Simple Minds - Don't You (Forget About Me) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpc7TBhilFI

We have discussed this a few times already, but I will start from scratch. Let's put it this way. The fuel light tends to come on when your ""Cruising Range" is at about 40km-50km. Now considering that after your cruising range gets to 0km, you can easily get at least 80km of travel out of the tank, and even after 80km, you typically have about 5 litres left in the tank. So if you add all that up, lets say your fuel light comes on at 500km, if you keep on driving an additional 130km, that would equate to 630km of travel with about 65 litres of fuel used. That adds up to just over 10L/100km which would be considered normal for these cars with a little bit more city driving. Everything is normal mate. If you want reassurance, take not of exactly how much fuel you put into your tank when you fill up and post the results.

If he's your best mate and you aren't a moron, then the smart move would be to test fit it. It will take up to an hour of your time to test one front and one rear and will most likely yield an answer faster than having to ask a small select audience on a forum because at the end of the day you are relying on: 1) Someone putting coilovers on a SDV10 (this is a Camry remember, not a commonly modified car) and, 2) Having researched alternative options because they would rather save some money. So before trying to have a go at everyone just because they can't provide you with a definite and specific answer, why don't you be considerate enough to realise up that you have come along and joined this forum just to ask for help on a rather limited subject without providing any constructive input to the forum, let alone an introduction. Especially when you say you want a response ASAP. Where you got the impression that replies were rude, I don't know but if anything, you were the one being rude in telling them to "beat it".

I would have on the first day but it won't fit behind the TRD bumper. .... Though I could lop off the tips. I was tempted to get some new mufflers the other day too. But I resisted the temptation.

Off-topic, a 1610kg Camry Hybrid... ~7.9 seconds:

Talk about confidence in your product.

Not if I'm paying.

^ Blast from the past huh? That was already discussed earlier in this thread and concluded that Ultra Racing had most likely said that just to steer people away from buying from the cheaper sources.

I guess some people value their car differently. When you consider the amount some people spend to detail their car, if the quartz coating does in fact have it's benefits, then $1000 is actually good value. I know it would be good value for me... considering I have paid $150 before for a wash, wax, and interior clean... and I'd consider paying for that once a month in addition to my normal washing routine. Not quite. From their Q&A's:

This has certainly got me interested. If it lives up to it's description, that would be one hell of a protective coating.

Looks the goods mate.

Mine from Ultra Racing Australia did not come with a packet of grease. I just picked up a $5 can of lithium grease instead.

Why didn't you paint over the wheel caps at least?