DJKOR

I have teamed them up with a Remsa brand brake pad available from GSL Rallysport for $105 per front set. The decision to choose this over what I was originally planning (QFM HP-X) is due to the following reply I got from Gred at GSL: After initial high speed bedding-in, the pads sure do feel like they would perform better than the HP-X pads. At the early stages of bedding-in, these Remsa pads are already feeling like they are providing equivalent ability to the EBC Redstuff I was previously using... and there is still more room for them to bed-in completely. I reckon these will end up being quite a good pad. They also have quite some bite when cold so overall, I'm quite satisfied.

Good luck with that. Only option at the moment is genuine Toyota (or the same part via PBR).

Winning.

Kinda what I did yesterday starting at 5pm up until now. Firstly I went from this: To this: Then while my wheels were off, I cleaned them in full as well as the wheel arches and surrounding suspension components. In the process of trying to find a degreaser to clean all this (since I was out of the Export Degreaser), I tried some of this product called "Kitchen Break" by Santo Australia which you mix with water 50:1. Damn this stuff is the ducks nuts. It's utilises alkaline salts to do it's cleaning. Anyways, I then proceeded to give the outside of the car a thorough cleaning and then applied a layer of Bowden's Own Auto Body Wax. I shall leave that overnight since that stuff is always easy to remove. I started cleaning out the interior but will finish that in the morning. It is time to get some rest.... after I finish catching up on the forum here.

I must learn... or place an order.

Since when did Philips produce HID kits that come with a lamp base other than the D2/D4? As far as I was aware, Philips only truly produced these design HID lamps for automotive use. Anything else is either a copy, or a disassembled Philips lamp then placed into a traditional automotive bulb base.

RDA7739 & RDA7740 Not my keyboard, neither did I take the photo. Though I do wish the Duromine was in my possession though. On a side note, I once went though about a stick of lip balm a fortnight back when I was on Roaccutane. That stuff was brutal... but brilliant.

The whole bulb holder should just unclip (with some light force) and pull right out.

Can't say how much the fronts or rears would be if I purchased from my mate. I get trade prices, but it's because I'm friends with the guy there so he won't really do the whole friends of friends thing. Usually 2/3 of the retail cost is about what things usually cost me. If you get aftermarket fronts though, you can save a bit compared to genuine. The RDA's shown above are the Gold Passivated variety and after machining etc, would have cost me about $565. Obviously you can save more with the standard slotted ones.

Haven't bothered taking them off to measure because I don't particularly need them just yet. I will probably end up getting them genuine though since I can get trade price on stuff like that.

Using a multimeter, you find which of the wires in your fuse panel or underneath the front door sill leads to your reverse light and you tap into it from there. Then you only need to run a wire from there to the orange wire on your head unit.

The rotors you need for the front to match the current callipers on the TRD need to have the following specs: A: Diameter: 325mm B: Height: 46mm C: Thickness: 32mm E: Centre Hole: 62mm F/G: PCD: 5 x 114.3 That's about all I can help you with really. I already have new rotors just about ready to be fitted. Just waiting for the re-drilling and the hub ring to be completed. RDA FTW!

Time for my rant with the aid of MS Paint. This has happened to me so many times and it really makes me rage. People that change from the right to left lane in a section where traffic is merging. Example is the red car:

Typically it is the first start of the day that produces the noise (in the period that it occurs if so) and then you usually don't get it again unless you let the car sit for a few hours or so. An oil AND filter change usually gets rid of the issue for most cases for at least 10,000km. If you are experiencing the rattle way more often than that and well under 10,000km since your last oil and filter change, your VVT-i controller is definitely playing up. It is not normal for this to occur on cars with VVT-i. They are meant to have a functioning locking pin in there to prevent this from happening. Just to confirm, this is the type of noise you are getting right? I had to use another example because Murphy's Law states that all times I've tried to film my car doing it, I could never get it to happen (actually I've never heard it since I started using Penrite SIN 0, even after 15,000km):

Bear in mind that to utilise that kit, you will need to fit a Bypass Kit (examples) to override your factory immobiliser.

It's hard to think that this is only around the corner. Damn time flies when you are having fun Tash: Cheers. No rush really. Every extra bit just helps as it's less of a hit to the account (damn work and their monthly pay). Also means I can do the 90,000km service before the meet rather than after.

These kits do have a disadvantage in that you need to bypass your steering wheel lock. This typically involves cutting a key and inserting it into the ignition either with or without cutting it shorter. Even though the key itself won't disable the immobiliser, it just means that it's a security feature removed from the car. I dunno, just saying because anything is possible.

Sigh. I'll be nice this time and spoon-feed you to save the research: check my grill out

My first quote mentions putting some more mesh behind it. The orientation of the mesh makes a huge difference to as to whether you can see through it or not. Look at it closely and you will see. I used a layer behind mine and you can barely see through it:

It depends on it's current condition. Does it look even in colour from inside to out or can you see many rings, even with variation in colour? Also, when you rin your nail on it from inside to out, does it feel reletively smooth or can you feel a lot of ridges? If both these scenarios are minimal, then you may possibly get away with it as after a bit of driving, the pads will bed in and match the rotors. But that's just as general advise. Each scenario can be quite different.

^ LOL. It looks wonky.

Sure it may not have practicality, great range, or accuracy, but I sure as hell wouldn't want to be on the other side: And while we are here, just to show how crazy this guy is:

The Sport Grill club Just got the grill!!

As part of the replacement routine, they swapped the old rubber hose out with a new 'revised' rubber hose. Changing over to the metal pipe was not a requirement.

So Hamish... I didn't pay attention to the guy, but that Sam guy who you got to come to the meet the other week wouldn't happen to be this guy? http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=620083682