DJKOR

^ That only applies to the facelift. If you are in the market for a second hand Aurion, the differences between the pre-facelift AT-X and Sportivo is not as large as the difference between the two same variants of the facelift. As for whether one thinks it is worth the extra money or not, that's all a matter of personal opinion. All up, it works out more cost efficient to buy the car with the extras than to upgrade it to that level yourself, but the point here is whether or not those extras are of value to you. Everyone differs in their preferences. For example, I find the total Sportivo package to be worth the extra money spent on it because I like the seats and the body kit and would rather not spend to get a custom kit.

It's just funny how they used said definition in their paper and said "impressive definition". How do they expect someone to take such a thing seriously when they use something like that as a reference. Besides, we're not hoons when it comes to our meets so the cops can pass by all they want.

It my not even be the torque converter. It could simply be a solenoid or sensor that is causing it to spew errors and give you issues. This is why it's important to read the codes and troubleshoot from there. The fact that it went away when the ECU was reset would make me think that there ma not be a huge mechanical issue with it, but that's just a guess.

LOL at the responses the Yanks are giving you Reece. "Trade in for a V6 Camry instead".

Any OBDII code reader should be able to read the Aurion. It follows the standard protocols.

Serious. I have never really read up on it, but "Parking up"? LOL. Well we technically don't classify as "parking up" even in a large group becasue we don't staisfy all their criteria in the definition. We have to "arrange illegal behaviour" firstly.

Instead of just resetting the ECU and calling it a day, it would be extremely wise to take note of every code that is returned from scanning the ECU. Some may be caused by others coming on, but within it all, the root cause may be there. If not, at least you can troubleshoot it better rather than just resetting an error with no other action.

Spotted Kev (k_san) on the Centenary Motorway around 6:15pm today. Was driving home in my zones out state while in the right lane and was getting fed up of having 4x4 lights in my rear. When I had the chance, I moved over and without paying attention, I saw the shape of the TOCAU sticker out of the corner of my eye. Too late to wave by then.

Unfortunately it hasn't been mentioned here. May need to span your search outside of this forum. That said, it shouldn't be too hard. Just take the old one out and measure it. They should be 6 cells so just look around for individual cells that would match up in size when formed into a 6 cell battery. Get some ones with solder tabs and make it yourself or get a battery shop to spot weld them. Edit: I just thought, depending on what size the battery is, you may be quite lucky with changing it over to NiMH. From the pics and as a guess, it looks like it would probably be of a generic size. This means you may be able to use a Tamiya battery . At least it will already be made up. This is true... however one must ask whether they would know. Like would they have a need to open it up to check?

The battery would be charged at some interval one way or another as it is of a rechargeable type. As for how it charges I'm not sure, but one would hope it lets it discharge a bit first before topping it up. It appears they use NiCd batteries which are so last century and are well known for their 'memory effect'. My guess is that they just wear out faster than what you may be used to with normal rechargeable batteries. Maybe a DIY NiMH conversion is in order. Following fuel misers details above, I'd imagine it wouldn't be that hard to change it over yourself. Just open it up, take the old ones out and make up a new set.

Depends. If you buy aftermarket alloys with the same size centre bore as your current steelies then yes, you will/can reuse those hubcentric rings. If you buy aftermarket alloys with a 62mm centre bore however, you can leave those hubcentric rings attached to the old steelies as your new wheels will fit perfectly.

So last night I headed out to the drags again since it was going to be a cool and quiet night there. As with every other time, once I set a benchmark for myself, it always seems to be impossible for me to go beyond it. Tonight was no exception. With my previous time of 13.372s @ 104.46mph in mind, I set out to beat it. Unfortunately I couldn't. First thing I noticed when I went for my first run was that the track didn't seem to be as sticky as usual. Usually I could stall it up to 1,500RPM with absolutely no issues, but this time around it was breaking traction with any form of stalling it up. Could also have been my tires, so there was something else as a variable. In addition to that, my head wasn't 100% in the game so I didn't properly adjust my launch to compensate for the external factors. For all my good runs in the TRD in the past, I have been able to get 2.0xx - 2.1xx for my 60 foot times. Tonight I wasn't getting any lower than 2.2xx which was negatively affecting my 1/4 mile time. I also got quite a bit more wheel spin than usual (which is typically none). On a side note, when going over all my time slips from previous runs, it appears my DIY intake has not negatively affected my performance but at the same time has given me the extra supercharger whine that I wanted. Trap speed through the night was pretty consistent and in most cases, higher than previous runs in similar weather conditions. At least one thing went right I guess. Anyways, here are the slips for my two best runs of that evening. In the second timeslip, that was up against Andrew357 who was driving a stock auto HSV E-Series 1 Senator: And just for fun, here is the in-car video of that last run. You can see how I had quite a bit of wheel spin which wouldn't have done any good to my ET, and you can also see how my head wasn't completely in it judging from how I wasn't able to keep the car pointed so well. For reference, that speed warning was set at 130km/h:

Saw this one in the city the other day. Made me laugh. If you are a member here, may I suggest losing a couple of things:

Define 'too cold' because it is at least going to be cold. I'll be there as well.

As far as I'm aware, the bore of the Accord Euro is 64.1mm so all you would need is a hub ring. You should confirm that however.

They will fit but: 1) The will stick into the guards more and will look kinda funny, and 2) You would be fine with stock wheels, but if you get anything wider, you are going to have issues because the wheel is now 10mm closer to the strut tower.

The countdown doesn't start until both parties have both staging lights lit.

Yeah, good luck with that. Unless you want an iPhone 3G 8GB or if you are lucky, 16GB. Anyone who was to think before selling their phone would realise that they could get more than $250 for a 3GS if they sold it on eBay. There are people out there who bid like crazy which is a win for the seller.

True. Just saying so that others can embark on the journey. Plus what can I say. I have a knack for getting my hands in tight places.

A helpful tip here. You can actually mount the ballasts there without removing the bumper. A self-drilling hex head metal screw and a extension piece for a power drill is all you need. This is how I did it when I fitted the HID's to Ash's (SecaBoy) TRD.

Steve.... I reckon you should take up that offer. Not that I don't want to drive your car, but it means you can then give it a run yourself.

Only on the Presara which comes with factory HID's.

You only really need to change it around 120,000km-160,000km (dependent on use), and even some people have found this to be early on a daily driver with the Super Long Life Coolant. Changing it now is probably just going to be a little excessive because believe it or not, the Super Long Life Coolant actually does last a while. Changing it it no different to changing it on any other car. Just look up some procedures on Google/YouTube and you'll get the idea. If you remove the plastic trim underneath the engine bay, you will find the stop-cock to drain the oil coolant. It will take about 9 litres.

This made me LOL: