DJKOR

LOL. You guys all copied the one and only. Damn I miss that car. As for me, today I drove it to Mooloolaba and back. Then had birds crap on it. That's about all.

Fair enough. Was wondering why you were out that way. I was on the Sunny Coast. Was on my way home then so I could have my breakfast

Spotted Steven on Milton Road inbound at 9:09am.

DashCommand http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/iphone/index.php Edit: LOL at them spelling their location wrong on the receipt.

Excuse the poor lighting:

For those of you who had seen the red TRD gear shift knob on pre-release TRD Aurion photos, there is one available on eBay. These were later only used in the TRD Hilux but will fit the TRD Aurion. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Brand-new-Toyota-TRD-gear-stick-/170636044047?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bab3670f

I filled up this morning since I had to go to Coolum and didn't really think anything about it. Drove casually up to Coolum in a zoned out phase (ie. not driving hard like usual), and when I got there, I realised my Average Fuel Consumption reporting back 7.8l/100km. So this gave me an idea. For my trip home, I decided to drive sedately (gentle acceleration, coasting where possible, staying around the speed limit, etc). The results are as follows. This was with no A/C, fan on full, and windows down 3/4 of the way. About 75% of the driving was floating around the following parameters. Indicated speed on the speedo was 110km/h: Reported fuel consumption reported was as follows. I had it on 7.2l/100km on the highway, but there was some bumper-to-bumper getting to the servo: And here is the fill receipt. I always fill up till the first click then pull the nozzle out and wait 20 seconds before filling again till it clicks. Without fail, I usually get an extra litre into the tank. This is my standard way of filling so I can get the fill points somewhat the same: That works out to be 7.1l/100km.

Those seats do look comfy though. And here I was thinking that they had listed to people like us on the forum and go over the silver trim with CF. Looks more like accents than anything.

Good to see they are onto something. Gunmetal alloys too. Seems like they might be getting hints from somewhere.

Damn. Glad to hear that you got out of that one with minimal injury.

That's why I said it was for the geeks among us. It's the fact that you are using electrical and magnetic energy to propel something. Plus the fact it was built with readily available bits and pieces. To some people, having made something themselves is more important than it's effectiveness when compared with an already existing solution.

It's a little bit of old news, but I only came across this earlier tonight and I want: MV CoilMaster Mark1 Coil Gun

I guess getting it organised for everyone isn't as easy as it sounded.

Incomplete answer. 'Trip A' and 'Trip B' also resets back to 0 when each one reaches 10,000km respectively.

spark plug replacement

For some reason, after what david spoke about on Thursday the other week, if you go for some larger rotors, they will only seem like a good move to me if you get them thicker than stock. So that means at least 30mm. May as well benefit as much as you can. Well I guess that comes down to the calliper. 325mm rotor and the 2 pot TRD calliper arrangement clears the 17's quite alright.

Awwwwww....... <3

Celica + issues = Normal Mick is defying the laws of nature right now with it. The earth is already starting to lose it's momentum. If it wasn't for Northy restoring the balance, s*** would be falling apart around us. Anyways: Brisbane Meetup (Every Thursday from 8:00 onwards)

Finished washing and waxing the car. Then realised I have to run down to the shops to pick up something. Relatively blue sky, scattered clouds here and there, should be no problems right? Wrong! 700m down the road, bright and sunny.... sun showers. FML.

Here is a question out to all the cleaning fanatics out there. I have attached a macro photo of the issue I have come across. Basically I would like to know if any of you guys have come across this before and if so, what exactly is it and what's the most effective and least abrasive way of removing it. I suspect it is road tar, but could it be something else? I never really remember getting such a thing on my last car, so it kinda puzzles me as to where it comes from. I pretty much always get it on the sides of my car splattered all over the place and it is usually after a few days of rainy periods. No matter now recently I had waxed the car (could have been only 24 hours prior to the rain), this stuff still sticks to the paintwork and doesn't come off after a normal wash. Even claying it isn't as effective as removing it. Basically I have been removing it with a microfibre buffing cloth wrapped around my finger and applying pressure to the spot to rub it off. As you could imagine, this process takes some time and it is really frustrating. Basically I want opinions on what can remove it with ease without being harmful to the previous wax later. Bug and Tar remover... or is that harsh on the surface?

I always find it funny how people keep bitching about how the police, blah blah, are all revenue raisers etc. At the end of the day, they wouldn't be able to raise said revenue if you didn't let them. FFS. Some people need to be realistic. Oh no. McDonalds is making me fat. I think it's more wise to complain to them that their meals aren't healthy enough rather than me choosing something else to eat.

Sigh. Have you not learnt yet that those Yanks keep quoting figures from Dynojet dynos. Those dynos spew out figures that more represent the figure at the flywheel. Compared to a Dyno Dynamics dyno, those figures can be up to 18-20% higher. This is my main pet peeve with them as they always try to compare d****. That is true with respect to HP, but what you aren't seeing is the torque. Just because the HP max on the 2GR under boost may be the same as the 2AZ, the 2GR will benefit with added torque. Something to consider. It isn't always about the HP.

Damn Dee. You have double posted twice in this thread in the last 24 hours. Slooooooowwwwww doooooooowwwwwwwnnnnnnnn.

It's putting down 176.5 kW / 236.7 HP Number 15 on this page: http://www.hpheaven.com.au/features/dyno-event-results/29/autosalon-newcastle-round-5-08/ I guess having the name "Simi Matoka" may help you a bit. Also, apparently the work was a little rough according to what the eBay post once contained: Turbo Charged Camry

You always hear about conflicting stories on things like this. Personally I have had only good experiences with them, and same goes with my Dad and Sister (LOL, sounds like we are accident prone). All the times I have dealt with them on the phone, I haven't had any unfriendly reps (though I guess if I did, there is only so much the company can control), and the only time I had a long wait was with my write-off with the Sportivo. This happened at the same time those wild storms were occurring so claims were being made left, right and centre. On all my claims (first being when I was t-boned, second being the write-off, and third being when I was reversed into), I just lodged a simple claim with AAMI, answered the appropriate questions, followed their instructions, and they took care of everything for me. For each claim, I simply dropped my car off at their assessment centre and that was it. They assessed the car, told me which repairer they have chosen, and then sent me a quote so I knew what was going on. They then gave me an expected completion date and a few days before, would give me a call to say if it looks to be running on time or if they need more. Their choice of repairer was enough to satisfy me and the job they did was beyond my expectation. Mind you, I didn't have any input into selecting the repairer, but it worked out in the end. Hit or a miss I guess.